@Rice are these the snap ring pliers that you recommend?
GearWrench 2012D Combination Heavy Duty Snap Ring Pliers - - Amazon.com
GearWrench 2012D Combination Heavy Duty Snap Ring Pliers - - Amazon.com
Rice's 1FZ-FE rebuild Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rice
- Start date
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jfz80
Cruisin’
Speaking of cutting open oil filter....
Was cool to watch Ben Barnes cut open a s inspect the filter with a thumbs up of approval. Very little debris if any. 2 specks maybe.
Was cool to watch Ben Barnes cut open a s inspect the filter with a thumbs up of approval. Very little debris if any. 2 specks maybe.
- Thread starter
- #364
Hmm. The unit I have looks like that but I believe my brand is KD Tools. As far as I can tell that means the one I have is old because it appears that is what is now called GearWrench (anyone know??). From the reviews I would be hesitant on the quality. The single biggest flaw with the threaded system is it works great when out in the open but will not go into tight spaces, such as up in a hub.
Overall the main issue with snap ring pliers is not getting a set made of thin metal that flex when you apply pressure.
Here is another set I use a lot but are only good for expansion... (pic stolen from web)
- Thread starter
- #365
jfz80
Cruisin’
And the nipple knock in the top end .....
- Thread starter
- #370
A little more on the forensics front causes me to believe that at some point this motor was starved of oil (collapsed filter?) .... the #5 piston was not the only victim .... rod and main bearings were rough.
All other pistons sit nicely in their bores with a skirt clearance of less than 0.002".
Then there was this guy ....
Bearings .... still holding very good oil pressure but were abused at some point.
All other pistons sit nicely in their bores with a skirt clearance of less than 0.002".
Then there was this guy ....
Bearings .... still holding very good oil pressure but were abused at some point.
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S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
I have no idea what those 'should' look like on a well cared for motor of similar mileage but my money's safe going with not like what you posted above 
It was quite an interesting teardown yesterday. cyl 5 was ugly, but even with all that damage, there was still wonderful crosshatching in thr bores.
I think it took longer for us to get the motor from its storage spot than it did to tear it down. Jason and Brown Dog went home with parts destined for the machine shop, and I went home with some for cleanup.
I think it took longer for us to get the motor from its storage spot than it did to tear it down. Jason and Brown Dog went home with parts destined for the machine shop, and I went home with some for cleanup.
So are you guys cleaning it up for another table or is there more to know here? 
Is there another transplant in progress? This will be another story, I hope
Is there another transplant in progress? This will be another story, I hope - Thread starter
- #374
So are you guys cleaning it up for another table or is there more to know here?
Update pending.
Jason dropped off the head and cams to a machine shop for my white 97. whatever is done with the remaining bits is out of my control. Its a shame my camper already has a dinette table....like i need more tongue weight on it. 
Little B got to work out some frustration on some metal with a pair of hammers. Compared to most of the current crop of "fabrication" tv shows, he's got more talent than several of those TV peeps.
Little B got to work out some frustration on some metal with a pair of hammers. Compared to most of the current crop of "fabrication" tv shows, he's got more talent than several of those TV peeps.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
We were scrolling through channels one night and up pops Gas Monkey and they are putting an engine in a Cuda I believe. There were four guys working at it and having all sorts of problems just getting it in the car let alone set. Heather looks over and says "Haven't I seen you put the motor/trans/t-case combo into a truck all by yourself, how does that shop make any money? "
Hello all
I am rebuilding the engine to my 94 LC and one major concern i have is wether or not I should replace the oil cooler? When I purchased the vehicle a few months ago the owner didn't put much care in the vehicle and when I disassembled the engine I found a lot of small metal pieces from the crank bearings so now I'm wondering if these pieces can get stuck into the cooler therefore causing damage after the rebuild. Should I purchase a new, very expensive $500+, oil cooler or just clean and re-use?
Thanks in advance
I am rebuilding the engine to my 94 LC and one major concern i have is wether or not I should replace the oil cooler? When I purchased the vehicle a few months ago the owner didn't put much care in the vehicle and when I disassembled the engine I found a lot of small metal pieces from the crank bearings so now I'm wondering if these pieces can get stuck into the cooler therefore causing damage after the rebuild. Should I purchase a new, very expensive $500+, oil cooler or just clean and re-use?
Thanks in advance
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Bump
Morning Mud
@Rice man I dig that coffee table. I'm stoked I found this thread, I also have a crack, a hairline crack below my freeze plug that's above the block drain I never noticed any coolant loss it just weeped a little I did clean everything up and JB welded for this head gasket job. Fingers crossed it holds or am I kidding myself? I was planning on getting a factory short block and starting to build a brand new engine over the course of about a year.
I have my 1fz torn down for the head gasket and had the head redone. I wasn't comfortable with the timing chain tensioner not feeling solid so I tore out the oil pans and the timing chain cover I'll be replacing everything with fresh Mr T parts.
I'm asking because the block is still in the truck I'm considering pulling it for a full rebuild but before I tore it down compression was amazing and my black stone oil reports showed no bearing wear. I thought today at least pull a few rod and crank bearing caps and have a look.
To rebuild the bottom or not to be rebuild the bottom...... Where's the line for rebuilding the bottom end. Again I had fantastic compression and my Blackstone oil pork don't show any bearing wear.
Also I thought my cylinder walls looked fantastic photos attached.
I'm glad I followed my gut and pulled the timing chain cover because the fpig and o-rings were completely rotten I don't think they've ever been taken apart. At some point the upper oil pan have been off because someone used gray rtv that had basically turned to powder when I was removing the bolts.
My current plan is valve job new valve seals (complete), all Mr t all new timing components, Master head gasket kit, freshen up oil cooler, new radiator, new hoses, New belts, new factory wiring harness, ARP head studs, new plugs of course,
Injectors got redone about 5,000 miles ago so I won't send those back in for cleaning and balancing.
Every hose and clamp in the truck is new...... About a year old.
Thanks for the input
I did not have the milkshake or what I would consider classic head gasket symptoms so I made this video and I also plan on making a new mud thread once everything is solved.
Morning Mud
@Rice man I dig that coffee table. I'm stoked I found this thread, I also have a crack, a hairline crack below my freeze plug that's above the block drain I never noticed any coolant loss it just weeped a little I did clean everything up and JB welded for this head gasket job. Fingers crossed it holds or am I kidding myself? I was planning on getting a factory short block and starting to build a brand new engine over the course of about a year.
I have my 1fz torn down for the head gasket and had the head redone. I wasn't comfortable with the timing chain tensioner not feeling solid so I tore out the oil pans and the timing chain cover I'll be replacing everything with fresh Mr T parts.
I'm asking because the block is still in the truck I'm considering pulling it for a full rebuild but before I tore it down compression was amazing and my black stone oil reports showed no bearing wear. I thought today at least pull a few rod and crank bearing caps and have a look.
To rebuild the bottom or not to be rebuild the bottom...... Where's the line for rebuilding the bottom end. Again I had fantastic compression and my Blackstone oil pork don't show any bearing wear.
Also I thought my cylinder walls looked fantastic photos attached.
I'm glad I followed my gut and pulled the timing chain cover because the fpig and o-rings were completely rotten I don't think they've ever been taken apart. At some point the upper oil pan have been off because someone used gray rtv that had basically turned to powder when I was removing the bolts.
My current plan is valve job new valve seals (complete), all Mr t all new timing components, Master head gasket kit, freshen up oil cooler, new radiator, new hoses, New belts, new factory wiring harness, ARP head studs, new plugs of course,
Injectors got redone about 5,000 miles ago so I won't send those back in for cleaning and balancing.
Every hose and clamp in the truck is new...... About a year old.
Thanks for the input
I did not have the milkshake or what I would consider classic head gasket symptoms so I made this video and I also plan on making a new mud thread once everything is solved.
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