Builds Resurrecting a mothballed '86 FJ60

[Seth_O]

I had a few minutes this evening, so finished pulling my dizzy.

I followed the FSM, but somewhere along the way there must have been a change because mine had some differences from what was in the FSM. It was close enough though that I was able to get it done.

This is what I found inside:

Definitely time for the mod. This is what I used, bought at HD:

And the finished product (after hitting the insides real quickly with a drill):

 

[Seth_O]

I cleaned it all up and sprayed some dry lubricant in there and it all moved nice and smoothly, except for this guy:

It was downright crunchy.

If my understanding is correct, this plate doesnt move much, just with the vacuum advance. According to the FSM there should be 'some' resistance. I wasn't super keen on how stiff it was though, so I packed the bearings with grease and then cleaned it up.

Hopefully I didn't mess anything up.

 

[Seth_O]

I reinstalled the dizzy then grabbed the timing light. @PoloSlayer and I set the timing to about spot on. The engine sounded pretty good, although I noticed the dizzy was rotated more clockwise (when looking down from above the engine) than before. Previously the adjuster tab was pretty well centered, now it is rotated so that most of the tab is on the wheel side of the bolt head.

I don't know what to make of this, if anything?

 

[Seth_O]

I buttoned it all up, and I still have the same issue as before

It will fire up fine, and once warm I can release the choke, but then when it dies it won't restart.

I also found a new issue this evening, now I can't always get the choke to fully release.

I feel like there is some kind of issue with my choke system

 

[Seth_O]

I also found when I was setting my timing that I could rotate my dizzy and the RPM's sped up considerably.

Should I adjust the dizzy to speed up the motor and then try and adjust it down at the carb? I have the mix screw out several turns.

 

[Seth_O]

Just realized I should have pulled the vacuum advance lines from the dizzy before adjusting the timing. Guess I'll do it again tomorrow. Sigh.

 

[mwebfj60]

I also found when I was setting my timing that I could rotate my dizzy and the RPM's sped up considerably.

Should I adjust the dizzy to speed up the motor and then try and adjust it down at the carb? I have the mix screw out several turns.

If you’re not at altitude, there shouldn’t be any vacuum on either vacuum line at the advance. If there is, the throttle plate is open too far at idle or something is hooked up wrong. Set your timing at the bb or a little advanced (bb toward the bottom of the window) then set idle speed, if idle speed is way high before bringing it down to around 650, check timing again. Now you can do a lean drop...I prefer to have a vacuum gauge hooked up during mix adjustment. Just remember the motor is a big air pump and the higher vacuum you can achieve the better. Without recurving the distributor, it may run best to set base timing a little higher and run primary advance line to the secondary(outer) pot on distributor. Run it as advanced as you can without pinging under load. Depending on compression numbers and amount head was shaved last year, you might get away with running primary to primary advance with timing on bb. Just have to experiment. Sounds like you’re getting there.

 

[Seth_O]

When I got the cruiser it didn't have a battery. And no battery hold-down clamp either. I contemplated making one, but decided I preferred to have the original deal.

A week or so ago a mud member graciously sent me a hold down for the price of shipping. He was very clear that it was in rough shape, but for what I wanted that was fine.

Here's how it looked after I removed what remained of the rubber coating:

 

[Seth_O]

I scrounged in my garage and found an old inverter off a router we haven't had for who-knows-how-many-years. Not very powerful, 12v and 1.8 amps, but enough for a proof-of-concept.

Then I grabbed a bucket and some old bailing wire and raided the laundry closet for some washing soda. A trip to the hardware store and $9 later and I had 4 pieces of 2' rebar.

It took me maybe 45mins to put it all together:

And an action shot:

The final result:

I really like how non-invasive it is, and virtually no work to do. You just can't be in a rush. I wasn't prepared for the nasty black mess afterwards, but it scrubbed off pretty easily with a brush and water in the kitchen sink (while my wife was gone....)

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ha! Awesome. I’ve got a beat one in my garage too! Show me how that hook part is arranged. I held it up and simply put it back down feeling rather clueless. so please enlighten me!

 

[Seth_O]

Ha! Awesome. I’ve got a beat one in my garage too! Show me how that hook part is arranged. I held it up and simply put it back down feeling rather clueless. so please enlighten me!

The hook end goes through a hole in the battery tray and the thread end goes through the clamp and gets a nut on it. The other end of the clamp bolts to the front frame of the truck.

I'l try and snap a pic tomorrow once the paint on mine dries

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

TY!

 

[Seth_O]

@NeverGiveUpYota here you go:

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ah! I get it now. Thank you!!!

 

[Seth_O]

Trying to troubleshoot a rough running issue. When I have the timing REALLY advanced or the RPM's high (1500+) vacuum looks good and the truck runs smooth. When I get it down to ~6* advanced and ~700 RPM's, my vacuum looks awful.

Here's a vid:



I stumbled across this because I was trying to adjust timing/mix/idle via the vacuum gauge.

Vacuum leak? Or something else? Idle mix is 3.5 turns out.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Vac leak would be my call. Have you tried carb spray around the manifold gasket?

 

[chichiflys]

I reinstalled the dizzy then grabbed the timing light. @PoloSlayer and I set the timing to about spot on. The engine sounded pretty good, although I noticed the dizzy was rotated more clockwise (when looking down from above the engine) than before. Previously the adjuster tab was pretty well centered, now it is rotated so that most of the tab is on the wheel side of the bolt head.

I don't know what to make of this, if anything?

Sounds like you are off by a tooth. I just went through this exercise (a lot). Follow the FSM for dizzy re-install guidance, if you haven't already. It's fairly easy to be off by a tooth.

 

[Seth_O]

Sounds like you are off by a tooth. I just went through this exercise (a lot). Follow the FSM for dizzy re-install guidance, if you haven't already. It's fairly easy to be off by a tooth.

That was my first thought, but with the slot on the end of the dizzy can you be off by just one tooth? I thought you'd have to be off by 180*?

 

[chichiflys]

That was my first thought, but with the slot on the end of the dizzy can you be off by just one tooth? I thought you'd have to be off by 180*?

Yeah I think you can. I believe the tell tale sign is that the dizzy is so far turned to either direction just to get it to run. I think you have it installed such that it is too far advanced, since you say you had to turn it clockwise to get the timing correct...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Exactly WHS ^^^. It happened to me too. It’s a fine art to drop it in the exact right spot the first time.