Builds Resurrecting a mothballed '86 FJ60 (2 Viewers)

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THis is the end it appears your missing thatshould come out of the fan housing.

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I do have that on my fan, just not showing in the picture.

What threw me is that it wasn't clear to me where the wire from the sensor enters the loom, as obviously the green side of the connector is complete and the wires go into the loom.

With the help you have earlier I know now to hunt around for a wire end coming out of the IFC loom. Thanks so much for the pic you posted earlier!
 
With much thanks to @NeverGiveUpYota I located the severed wire end:

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Unfortunately it's going to have to wait though until better weather. It's raining and dark right now. Unusual for CA!
 
I got up this morning and headed outside. Almost went back in, I'm not sure it was entirely safe for humans to be out in this temperature. It was definitely below 50* when I went outside:

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But, being the tough Californian that I am, I put another layer on and decided to risk it.
 
I wasn't happy with the results of my valve adjust Thursday, so I spent some time thinking about it. In my contemplation I realized I had made a really rookie mistake. I don't normally air my dirty laundry, but the '60 forum is a lot more gentle then the '80, and hopefully my sharing will help someone else.

After adjusting the first half of the valves I rotated the crank until the dizzy went around 360*, and not the crank. So it caused me to adjust the 2nd set of valves at the wrong time.

I think what made it come together for me is that when I put #1 @ TDC I drew a line on the crank pulley with a silver sharpie pointing directly down, so I could tell when I was getting close w/o having to jump up and down. I realized that the crank was going around 2x (i.e. 720 vs 360) and the dizzy was going around 1x. When done properly after adjusting the first set of valves when you rotate the crank 360* then the dizzy arm will point to the #6 spark plug.

Well duh.

Here's my cheater mark:

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After redoing all my valves one more time, I did a compression test. This was the highlight of the day: #'s ranged from 148 - 152 across all 6.

I hooked the plug wires back up and fired it up.

It ran horribly, wont even run without the choke all the way out, and even then it hunts.

I am starting to think I have a vacuum leak somewhere, and the running of the truck is making it worse. With the truck running today I covered the carb and it made no difference.
 
Also r&r'd the carb cooler fan. It looked really good inside, so just cleaned it up and reinstalled.

I didn't have any cool extra choke cable laying around, so I used the wire i had and wrapped it up in heat reflective tape.

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Hopefully this keeps it for a while. The upside is it worked great, it fired up and ran for several moments after the engine had turned off.
 
I’ve had the same pain as you w/ a badly running 60.
I’ve adjusted my valves a number of times. After the third I finally got the balls to stick my finger in the plug hole to feel for the compression stroke. Don’t ask why I was so angst about it before, it’s nothing to me now. You can also toss your gauge in the #1 & 6 and listen for a whistle that begins to stop at the very top of the stroke.
Or you can do it the ‘old’ style way, 15, 36, 24 and do those in pairs.
I use a yoga mat to lay across the radiator and front of the engine to reach the back end. It’s not the easiet task by any means for a short person!

And covered the carb? You mean you tried to suffocate it out?
 
Jump up and down?
Just an FYI, use an appropriate size socket and wrench on your alt nut and you can do it all while standing on a step stool (or not) in front of the nose.
 
And covered the carb? You mean you tried to suffocate it out?

Correct, with the filter off I covered up the top of the carb/intake in an attempt to smoother it, with no change. Did it with the choke on though, if that makes any difference.

I'm following your thread closely, your work is really good and I love how you question and think through everything. Also I see a lot of your own research going into what you're doing, but you rarely mention it. Not sure you've contemplated how far you've come, but reading your thread from start to finish makes it very apparent. Hats off to you....
 
Jump up and down?
Just an FYI, use an appropriate size socket and wrench on your alt nut and you can do it all while standing on a step stool (or not) in front of the nose.

Good example of why diversity of thought is so important, I'll have to try this out. Thanks for the idea!
 
Just beware... if the wrench handle contacts your battery the sparks might make you jump like me. ;) Unless your smart and you disconnect the neg.
 
Correct, with the filter off I covered up the top of the carb/intake in an attempt to smoother it, with no change. Did it with the choke on though, if that makes any difference.

I'm following your thread closely, your work is really good and I love how you question and think through everything. Also I see a lot of your own research going into what you're doing, but you rarely mention it. Not sure you've contemplated how far you've come, but reading your thread from start to finish makes it very apparent. Hats off to you....
I’m trying to remember but pretty sure it needs to be w/ choke off. If your riching up so much w/ choke, I believe, you won’t stall out. If you can’t get the choke off, just get it as low as you can.
Then right as your begining to add the cardboard cover bring the throttle linkage up so the suction will pull crap thru.
 
Spent another 1/2 day on the cruiser today. @PoloSlayer polished and waxed the whole thing, and we got some of the emblems reattached. Nothing super exciting.

I have been thinking about my running issue, and I realized I didn't readjust my carb after adjusting all my valves.

So I fired the truck back up and went through the adjusting process again. It got to running the best it ever has, and we took it for a spin around the block. Once warm, she ran like a champ, well enough I felt ok taking her out onto a main road.
 
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After getting back I decided to go ahead and do a vacuum test because I have the tool for it, so I might as well.

I've never done one before, so open to feedback on if I messed something up, but here is where I connected the gauge:

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If you can't tell from the pic, it goes into that round connector on the manifold that has multiple vacuum hoses coming out of it.
 
After getting back I decided to go ahead and do a vacuum test because I have the tool for it, so I might as well.

I've never done one before, so open to feedback on if I messed something up, but here is where I connected the gauge:

View attachment 1620684

If you can't tell from the pic, it goes into that round connector on the manifold that has multiple vacuum hoses coming out of it.
That would be the gas filter.
 
Dangit, it wouldn't let me upload the vid, but it is doing a slow bounce between about 5-7". All of my hoses look really good, this feels like a manifold leak to me, but open to thoughts.
 
That would be the gas filter.

There is a gas filter screwed into the manifold?

Where is the optimal place to attach on the 2F?
 
There is a gas filter screwed into the manifold?

Where is the optimal place to attach on the 2F?
On my '76 FJ40 I tee off the vacuum line that comes off the intake manifold right below the carburetor.
 
@Seth_O mamy tee off at the finned port that comes off the intake that the brake booster pulls from.
Your reading has a 2” flutter? Is that what your saying? This chart might give you an idea or it just might make you more crazy.
Sorry, the first chart seemed blurry.

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There is a gas filter screwed into the manifold?

Where is the optimal place to attach on the 2F?

It’s not exactly a gas ‘filter’ but more a port that the evap attaches to to collect the fuel vapor from the VCVs and charcoal canister, I believe, into the intake to then get burned out to exhaust... along those lines. Someone can correct me if I’m way off base.
 
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