Restoration Project (1 Viewer)

[Manitou Decline]

So talked with Cruiser Outfitters and found out that the FF rear axle needs the OEM axle flange studs. The difference between the aftermarket and OEM is obvious side by side (pictures of difference are below). Well I replaced all 12 studs today (it was a long day on the black couch). I also replaced the trail fix of the blown out intercooler rubber. At the time I was ashamed that it came to duct tape. That progressed to a plumbing rubber. Eventually that turned into a shotgun blast sound 3 miles from the shop. So yes it was a much required attention problem.

So here are the studs you wanted see..... perverts.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Looks the same to me, just longer on the protruding portion. You put the long end into the hub? That's the mistake, not using the "wrong" studs.

 

[Manitou Decline]

Looks the same to me, just longer on the protruding portion. You put the long end into the hub? That's the mistake, not using the "wrong" studs.

Yeah I didn't put the old ones in. I'm not sure why it makes a difference, I didn't ask why it is different. After I put my order in with Outfitters they called me back and told me that there is a difference for the (FF axle) and that I needed the OEM ones. Guess that would be a question for Kurt.

 

[Manitou Decline]

Well today I got some work in. I finally fixed the power steering leak. It was leaking from where someone used a steel braided line, cut the end off and put a hose clamp on it. The hose went to hard lines and alls it did was just a complete loop along the frame from one side to other.... so pointless. I went to a hydraulic shop and had them braze a fitting on the return hard line coming out of the gearbox and make a hose to return back to the PS res.

Then bled the system and no more PS whining.

Second fix of the day, replacing the trail fix clutch line that had a dribble coming from it. Got a 40" brake and got it install. Awesome.

Then I went and ordered the paint to finish up the Ivan Strewart stripes for the inside trim and outside. Holy s*** that was a quick $900 out the door.

Well lastly the front axle is covered in oil. At first I thought it from power steering but after looking into it.... engine oil. Now every 6bt/4bt owner knows the where the leak is coming from. That damn timing cover.

Went to the parts store and ordered the gasket kit. Started taking the front of the engine apart. Luckily it isn't a hard job. It's like Cummins knew this would be a common issue and just made it pretty simple to do.

That's where I left off because the gasket kit comes in tomorrow.

 

[Manitou Decline]

Ok so I guess my phone never posted my last update. Here is short version. Well I got the timing gear cover done. Awesome. Then Two days later it started leaking of the rear timing covered..... Yes. 3 days later I was sitting at stop sign and all of sudden got a huge cloud of white smoke.... even more awesome. In the diesel world that means 1 of 2 things. 1) you blew a head gasket. 2) an injector(s) went out. Well it only blew white clouds at idle. Injector for sure. I spent all last week dealing with a company. Placed the order on Tuesday, called them on Friday and they had no idea what was going on with my order. I spoke with them on Thursday because they said the injectors would ship then. Never got a email that they shipped. Well by the end of the day I told them to cancel the order, they didn't even charge my card on the end of the day on Friday. So got a hold of Xtreme Diesel. Ordered 4 of their stage 2 injectors (good for 350 RHP) and recommended timing set to 18°. Well they came in today.

Weekends project.

Well then the day the injectors went out, I was driving home and the engine decided to start pussing oil. I don't know where yet, I just know the steering box is covered. I lost about 5 quarts in 4 miles. I don't want to do it, but I may end up pulling the engine and re-sealing everything. I did get some TA-31 RVT to reseal the engine with, if it ends up getting pulled. TA-31 is from Ford Motorcraft. It is the only RVT that they use to get 7.3s to stop leaking, so you know it's good.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

5 quarts in 4 miles, holy s***. If it's covering your driver's side and not the passenger side, look at the side cover, timing cover, injection pump. Those are the only things that can dump that much oil that quickly.

 

[Manitou Decline]

5 quarts in 4 miles, holy s***. If it's covering your driver's side and not the passenger side, look at the side cover, timing cover, injection pump. Those are the only things that can dump that much oil that quickly.

Yeah my biggest concern was the diesel getting past the piston rings and that eating away the RVT used with the gaskets. Luckily when I checked all the oil levels to what was leaking, the engine oil didn't any smell of diesel.

 

[Manitou Decline]

@GLTHFJ60 I found out where it pissed the oil out. A bolt came out of power steering pump. Noticed it as I'm putting in the injectors now

 

[Manitou Decline]

Are these bolts 10mmx1.5?

 

[Manitou Decline]

Updates:

Got the new injectors in. I'm excited to see how these stage 2 perform.

Now I don't like to say an injector is bad till I do an actual pop test on them and see if bar pressure is matching the injector rating..... but yeah I am going to just say 2 of 4 injectors were bad.

Upon fixing the oil leaking from the vacuum/PS pump, I noticed that I have a bigger issue. All 3 bolts on the left side of the engine for the motor mount are broken. I then checked the right side and 2 of the three are broken. So I believe it happened when I rolled it and I just missed it. Explains a lot of small issues that I have noticed. One being that the dual shifters for the transfer hit the Trans tunnel and pop into neutral/try shifting in low while driving. Which this good, I thought I was going to have pull up the new carpet and fab more room for them. Fixing the engine mounts will be way easier. Support the engine with stands and a jack, remove the brackets at rubber mounts, weld a nut to broken bolt ends and pull them out. Plans always look great on paper though, then you get kicked in the nuts when you put into practice.

 

[Manitou Decline]

Well you can't just highlight the successes of life. Here my ugly truth.... it wasn't the injectors.

Though I am not upset about spending the $600 for the injectors. They definitely awoke the diesel beast to another level that excites oh so much. The normal signs of a blow HG just weren't there. Engine temperature wasn't going crazy, it didn't constantly blow white smoke (only at an idle after it got up to 140°), and oil wasn't milky. Very rarely do HG only crack between the exhaust and the cylinder. For s***s and giggles I will double check the torque on the head bolts. Just wishful thinking.

But there is good news. Got the mounts all tightened up. Turns out some someone put 8.8 grade bolts into the engine block. I went and got some high quality 12.9 grade bolts to put in. Blue lock tight and torqued them down to 90 ft lbs.

Cut the bracket up that was slowly loosening the PS pump.

You look at the left corner by the bolt, you can see where the bracket has been rubbing on the bolt. I cut the corner away. Put a clean straight line across instead leaving the notched out steps.

Put it all back together and put a 12.9 grade hex head bolt so the bracket won't loosen it again.

So no more oil leaks. Every was running running extremely well till I took that radiator cap off.

 

[Manitou Decline]

Wow realized I haven't posted in a while. Well quick update to this day. Well the engine was smoking bad. Turns out it wasn't injectors. Pulled the head, did the ghetto straight edge and .010 feeler gage check. Found a couple low spots. Took the head to a machine shop and had them take it down a .01". Got a Cummins .01 over HG to put on. Well that took care of the the idle smoke. Now it smoked every time you got heavy and deep in the skinny. Injectors good, HG Good, checked the stock timing, changed fuel filters, had good boost. Started checking for checks in fuel lines from the tank to see if it was sucking air, nope. Replaced all the washers on the banjo bolts to the pump, nope. Ok Well they were stage 1 injectors and recommended 17-19°. Ok let's advance it.... and this is were the rabbit hole starts. Now I am not in any way talking bad about Wyoming. He did a fantastic job doing this engine, specially for someone who never built one before. I read the whole tread more than once. Well the pump is a P3000 which did come on the engine. It is an ok pump. They are a 850cc pump and the dream P7100 is a 950cc pump. Well after I found out it was a P3000, and not a P7100, I tried advancing it. But there is no chart for doing the lift timing on those. It was all guessimations. Well for the ones reading this that understand lift timing. From BDC I got 6.3 @14.5 stock AT. I bumped it up to 6.6 using the .1=.5° rule of thumb.

 

[Manitou Decline]

Well that didn't stop the smoke either. I set the engine back to stock time and put in a set of factory spec injectors..... still smoked. Well last Sunday I went to shop to work on it. The day before we had a high of 8 degrees. I had frost on the engine it was so cold. So I started it up and letting it run. Stood there sipping my coffee and the exhaust had no smoke at all, weird because it was 35, it should have smoked a little on a cold start. That got me to thinking to check the intake side of the engine. I saw what looked like a small rip in the turbo to intercooler pipe boot. I decided to take it off and check it out. When I removed the boot/pipe off the turbo, a little stream of oil came out of the turbo outlet of the intake. I took the pipe off intercooler and oil started dripping from that.

Well s***..... I can rebuild the turbo no problem. I looked up the HX35 rebuild kit, decided to double check the part number on the turbo. Glad I did.

It's that turd of a turbo H1C.... not even the turbo that is supposed to be on this engine. You just can't take any turbo and slap it on. Will it spool, yes. Will it push air, of course. Will it give the engine the performance it is capable of, no. Well sucks to be me, I don't even want to rebuild it. That explains why it took so long to spool. Well my coworker is a Toyota guy who tunes 1UZs and 2JZs as a side hustle. I told him about my turbo and he got all sorts of excited. We spent 2 hours digging into the compression charts to find the prime turbo. It was a Garrett gtx3576r for 2k. Not paying that, not when I got to get a P7100 pump. So looked on Cummins and found that 3592122 is the part number for the turbo that is supposed to be on the engine. Figured I would settle for stock now. Looked into it and saw that is the elusive HX30W turbo. Found someone who sells them for $699, then I saw they sell the Super HW30 for $50 more. $50 for 10mm more on the compression wheel and good for 300 HP? 300 was always the goal.... YES PLEASE. So that is where we are at currently. DOWN THE PERFORMANCE RABBIT HOLE. I put head bolts in rated for 350 HP when I did the head. I already planned on getting the the P7100 stage 1 pump. I already have the stage 1 injectors for a P7100. I already got the lift timing kit for the 7100. Just got to s*** out another $1700 for that pump.

 

[Manitou Decline]

Oh man. Told you that 78mm Turbo was coming soon @DangerNoodle.

@GLTHFJ60 what do you think I will be looking at on the dyno? Got the Super HX30 coming in, got dynomite diesel stage 1 injectors, and soon I will be ordering the stage 1 7100 pump from dieseltuff.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@GLTHFJ60 what do you think I will be looking at on the dyno? Got the Super HX30 coming in, got dynomite diesel stage 1 injectors, and soon I will be ordering the stage 1 7100 pump from dieseltuff.

I've never dyno'd mine, and I've always had stock injectors.

I'm guessing you'll see 175-200ish wheel HP, maybe 400-450lb/ft of torque?

Please post up your dyno charts if you take it there..

 

[Manitou Decline]

I've never dyno'd mine, and I've always had stock injectors.

I'm guessing you'll see 175-200ish wheel HP, maybe 400-450lb/ft of torque?

Please post up your dyno charts if you take it there..

Will do. We got a dyno shop that is like a mile away from the shop. I was already planning on seeing where it was after everything gets installed.

 

[Manitou Decline]

I know the turbo is good for 330hp and the injectors are good for 285hp. So hoping to break the above 500 ft lbs, maybe hit 600 ft lbs

 

[onemanarmy]

So....this is not engine related.....but how did those SOR sliding cargo windows work? I've heard mixed reviews.

 

[Manitou Decline]

So mixed is correct. I really do like them as far as their functionality goes, specially if you have dogs or sleep in the back. they are a tight fit to get it. It took us a couple attempts on each window to get them, roughly around 3 hrs. Now that they are in, I did notice a little gap between the seal and the body. Not huge one. I haven't noticed any leaking. I have considered using a little silicone in that gap just to help make sure my window seams don't later from water getting in there. Hope that kinda gives you the insight you wanted.

 

[onemanarmy]

So mixed is correct. I really do like them as far as their functionality goes, specially if you have dogs or sleep in the back. they are a tight fit to get it. It took us a couple attempts on each window to get them, roughly around 3 hrs. Now that they are in, I did notice a little gap between the seal and the body. Not huge one. I haven't noticed any leaking. I have considered using a little silicone in that gap just to help make sure my window seams don't later from water getting in there. Hope that kinda gives you the insight you wanted.

Thanks. The mixed reviews stem from the windows not being curved every so slightly like the factory...the SOR are flat glass. That seems to be your take on them as well and the root of the tougher install.