Resto Q & A (10 Viewers)

[RedOx]

About to replace the clutch. I saw this vent looking part on the right side of the tranny. I know these things are built for abuse, but before I get after this thing with wet blaster and angle grinder with wire wheel do yall have any warnings or does this thing look compromised to where I need to do something else before cleaning it all up?

 

[firemanj92]

About to replace the clutch. I saw this vent looking part on the right side of the tranny. I know these things are built for abuse, but before I get after this thing with wet blaster and angle grinder with wire wheel do yall have any warnings or does this thing look compromised to where I need to do something else before cleaning it all up?

View attachment 3928479

Nope, unbolt it clean it up and slap it back on. Left side bolt only needs to be loosened but right bolt needs to be removed and it slides right out

 

[RedOx]

For anyone who has used the OEM paint, how many cans do yall think it would take to just do the top half of the vehicle with the hood?

Paint - Dune Beige (416) AerosoL​

 

[RedOx]

From the adventures in NoobLand for other noobs. If you have a 3 speed from around 74 model, it does indeed take GL-5 SAE 80w-90 or 75W Gear Oil from what I have researched. Glad I'm replacing the clutch because this old fluid looked like mud. It was just a bit thinner than honey.

 

[RedOx]

Leftover plywood came in handy for keeping the transmission level. Just gotta strap it down.

 

[RedOx]

Round #2 today. The jack mod does exactly what I want it to. It works great and keeps the transmission where I want it. Pulling the bell housing would have been easier as @charliemeyer007 mentioned but I'm not undoing everything now and rebuilding my stand do accommodate the change in center of gravity and welding a metal frame to support the extra weight. I watched the 40channel do it and he was able to get the clutch and flywheel to slide right out the bottom. Ok yes editing because I just found it in FSM. LOL A good lesson in not getting in a hurry and winging it. Step #2. I need a Homer Simpson meme of him saying "Dohhh!".

 

[RedOx]

Once the transmission is fully separated, is there a way to tell if I stressed the input shaft too much? I figured maybe try to turn it and listen for clicks or see if there is any play in it or not. It would save a lot of time and energy if I have to buy a new t/t. Just wait for the new one to get here instead of reinstalling the old one.

Also I forgot to mark the shaft flange or Ujoint whatever you call it before I removed it from the rear diff. Is there anything I need to check and do before reattaching it. It's just four bolts and it doesn't look like orientation matter but apparently FSM says it does for some reason. I'd rather not make this anymore of an expensive lesson than I have to. I did get the other two marked though. The one connecting the front axle and the front of the rear axle.

 

[RedOx]

Got the retaining wire clips dealt with enough to get the fork free. Will need to buy more retaining wires or find a better solution that makes this process easier if one exists. Still figuring out how to get the gear shifters removed. The big one doesn't have the bolts on the sides. It's got pins that stick out the side. The smaller paddle lever I believe is what it's called looks doable so might get that tomorrow. I'm thankful for what I have learned so far about this mudhog of a vehicle and the more I learn the more I appreciate it. Totally worth the struggle.

 

[pb4ugo]

You didn't have to remove the clips, the trans input shaft slides thru the bearing the clips are holding in place. Do you have a Factory Service Manual (FSM). It shows how to remove the shifter cane. You don't pull the pins or bolts. Removal is the opposite of the install video below. Be sure the trsns is in neutral when you remove it.

 

[RedOx]

You didn't have to remove the clips, the trans input shaft slides thru the bearing the clips holding in place. Do you have a Factory Service Manual (FSM). It shows how to remove the shifter cane. You don't pull the pins or bolts. Removal is the opposite of the install video below. Be sure the trsns is in neutral when you remove it.

Thanks for the video. That really helps. Yeah I got the FSM. That's why I didn't do more today cause I want to do more reading on this. I needed that fork to be removed and off that ball joint because that bottom screw inside the bell housing that screws toward the direction of the transmission was getting caught on the fork. I did indeed ensure the trans is in neutral. Thinking about using a comealong to pull that trans out if it gets stuck again.

 

[pb4ugo]

I don't understand. You shouldn't have to remove the fork to remove the trans.

Fyi, Toyota sells the bearing wire clips.

 

[RedOx]

You're right but from what I was reading it made it harder to get out if you don't have the pullers which I don't have. As far as those smaller bolts I just assumed they were screwing into the transmission also so I figured I would remove them. This is why I'm going back over the manual before attempting to pull that thing off again. I don't want to get in a hurry again and skip steps or take anymore unnecessary steps. I will have to order some more of those clips from Toyota for sure. I figure it's designed to have those put on when the trans or belhousing is removed. Seems it would be impossible to install just through the bottom cover.

I won't get another chance to work on it for a few days here. At least that part. Do you have any advice on how to remove the smaller gear shifter stick? I just want to clean that thing up anyway.

 

[pb4ugo]

You dont need a puller. The tolerances between the throw out bearing and the input shaft and collar are large. It should slide off or be pushed off. All you need to do is remove the 4 bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing with the tranny supported. Of course b4 removing the bolts, remove the shifter and tranny hump. driveshafts and disconnect the speedo cable and emergency brake cable. I think I usually disconnect the ebrake at the pull handle and feed it out of the firewall. Just take a pic of the tcase shifter, then remove the shifter gate from the trans and nut off the stud and slide the shifter off the stud then fold it down. You maybe able to leave the tcase shifter in place, because the tranny hump opening may give enuff room to slide the assembly back and down. Once the bolts are removed and tranny supported you may have to wiggle the trans or pry it slighty out of the bellhousing. Once the tranny slides back about a 1/4" gravity will take over. Watch your fingers. I'd suggest have someone help and watch too. Some folks will rent and engine hoist and get some straps to help support the trans assembly thru the door too.