Builds Rescuing a Basket Case '72 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[diesellibrarian]

So, my "long birfs" totally fit into the ball without clearancing, so that's the good news.

The bad news is:

Pulled the diff out of the housing, only to find that it had been sitting in a puddle of water inside the pumpkin. Definitely less than ideal. After a couple of hours of cleaning, I got it looking half-decent, but I think it's going to have to be flushed a couple of times to get rid of all the crap. I'd thought about running motor oil in it for a day to two, and then flushing that, and then putting more motor oil in it, and then finally refilling with gear oil. Any thoughts on that idea? If dumb, please let me know.

At any rate, it's a front diff that won't see too much use, so basically I'm going to clean it up as best I can and run it.

Onward!

 

[FloridaLife]

So, my "long birfs" totally fit into the ball without clearancing, so that's the good news.

The bad news is:

View attachment 3786600

Pulled the diff out of the housing, only to find that it had been sitting in a puddle of water inside the pumpkin. Definitely less than ideal. After a couple of hours of cleaning, I got it looking half-decent, but I think it's going to have to be flushed a couple of times to get rid of all the crap. I'd thought about running motor oil in it for a day to two, and then flushing that, and than putting more motor oil in it, and then finally refilling with gear oil. Any thoughts on that idea? If dumb, please let me know.

View attachment 3786608
View attachment 3786610

At any rate, it's a front diff that won't see too much use, so basically I'm going to clean it up as best I can and run it.

Onward!

I would get some Berryman's B12 and pour it through it a few times. Catch it on the other end in a container and repeat. That stuff is AMAZING! You can, for example, pull the oil pan off an old engine that was abused and never had the oil changed, scoop a handful of thick nastiness out of the bottom, pour Berryman's B12 over it and it just melts away. You can get it in a spray can and in a jug. And when I was young I learned the hard way DO NOT spray it on a painted surface. I had painted the engine in my 1969 Chevy 1/2 ton short wheelbase Fleetside pickup and it looked great. About 2 weeks later I opened the hood and decided to clean it and make it look new again so I sprayed B12 on it and watched the paint melt away.

 

[B y r o n]

If you had water in the front axle then there is a good chance you have water in the rear axle. If you haven't already done this, I'd drain the fluid in the rear axle to ensure it doesn't have water in it. If nothing else you know you have good fluid in it when you put in new fluid.

 

[diesellibrarian]

If you had water in the front axle then there is a good chance you have water in the rear axle. If you haven't already done this, I'd drain the fluid in the rear axle to ensure it doesn't have water in it. If nothing else you know you have good fluid in it when you put in new fluid.

I think this axle got water in it because it was lying on the ground in a scrap yard for who knows how long, exposed to the rain and snow.

I just had my rear axle completely apart, so I know it's all good.

 

[locklaw]

I think this axle got water in it because it was lying on the ground in a scrap yard for who knows how long, exposed to the rain and snow.

I just had my rear axle completely apart, so I know it's all good.

I have had good luck by first using diesel to fill up the centre, drive around the block so to speak (first gear, low speed off idle only), then draining it out, repeat, then motor oil and finally gear lube.

 

[diesellibrarian]

I have had good luck by first using diesel to fill up the centre, drive around the block so to speak (first gear, low speed off idle only), then draining it out, repeat, then motor oil and finally gear lube.

I like this plan!! Great suggestion.

 

[locklaw]

I like this plan!! Great suggestion.

Happy to help! Diesel washes fine particles out better than oil and also splashes everywhere, preventing flash rust. Oil can then merrily take its time to coat and lube as it should.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Begged off work yesterday so that I could finally get the front axle back together. Didn’t get a ton of process pics, but you alls know what it’s about.

Here is one shot of the knuckle being packed with moly grease:

All in all, things went pretty smoothly. Got the diff installed without issue, repacked the wheel bearings, etc. and was finally able to drop it down on all four wheels.

These wheels look so much better than the wider ones that came with the truck. I also installed a new (to me) side step, as the original ones were completely rusted out. Still need to source a step for the right side, but I don’t think that’ll be an issue.

Things to do yet: brakes (7 of the 8 caliper pistons were seized, so I have new calipers and pads on order) and steering. My tie rods are really bent up, but I do have some spares, so I guess I’ll be reassembling the steering gear from scratch. Have a new set of tie rod ends etc at the ready.

After that? Gotta figure out seats and front driveshaft. Also planning to refresh my cracked steering wheel.

 

[FloridaLife]

Begged off work yesterday so that I could finally get the front axle back together. Didn’t get a ton of process pics, but you alls know what it’s about.

Here is one shot of the knuckle being packed with moly grease:

View attachment 3790669
All in all, things went pretty smoothly. Got the diff installed without issue, repacked the wheel bearings, etc. and was finally able to drop it down on all four wheels.

View attachment 3790673

These wheels look so much better than the wider ones that came with the truck. I also installed a new (to me) side step, as the original ones were completely rusted out. Still need to source a step for the right side, but I don’t think that’ll be an issue.

View attachment 3790683
Things to do yet: brakes (7 of the 8 caliper pistons were seized, so I have new calipers and pads on order) and steering. My tie rods are really bent up, but I do have some spares, so I guess I’ll be reassembling the steering gear from scratch. Have a new set of tie rod ends etc at the ready.

After that? Gotta figure out seats and front driveshaft. Also planning to refresh my cracked steering wheel.

You're doing a great job! I'd like to convert my front brakes to disc, but financially it will have to wait. Like you, I'll have to refresh my cracked steering wheel.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Bit by bit, things are coming together here.

I'm trying to be methodical in rebuilding the front end so that nothing gets forgotten. After a week of illness I was back in the shop last night, and spent the evening getting the steering gear installed and dialed in. I had two sets of steering rods to choose from, both of them bent. In the end I went with the set that came with the disc brake axle, because they were *less* bent. These are the ones I pulled off lol:

Was able to remove the old tie rod ends with relative ease: just needed a vice and plenty of PB Blaster, as opposed to the usual torch. Spun in a new set from City Racer, and spent a bit of time getting them adjusted to just the right length per the service manual specs. There's nothing like a fresh set of tie rod ends to make a guy feel accomplished:

Driver's side:

I also took a close look at my steering box for the first time. It was covered with an intimidating layer of greasy dirt, but with a bit of scraping and wire wheeling I was able to confirm that there was in fact a steering box under there somewhere:

The drag link appears to be nice and tight, but it will get some grease regardless, along with all of the TREs. I threw the steering wheel back on for a quick test, and dang if the whole system isn't nice and tight! There appears to be very little play in the steering at all, which I'm very glad about. In the back of my mind I was sure I'd be rebuilding the steering box.

Anyway, with the steering gear fully installed, I will move on to some of the other systems: front brakes and suspension. I have a NOS set of poly shackle bushings that I'll be installing, and perhaps some new shackles if called for. I still need to source a 60mm flange for the transfer case, and will also need to shorten my front driveshaft, but once that's done the undercarriage is all buttoned up!

 

[diesellibrarian]

I'm in a bit of a low cycle with this project: I feel like I'm spending a ton of time dicking around on annoying little sub-projects that don't offer the psychic reward that comes with making great strides toward getting the truck roadworthy. But at the end of the day, it all needs to get done.

What I've accomplished over the past little while...

Cooling System:
New rad hoses and heater hoses. Completed my rear heater delete by running a U-shaped hose between the heater core connector fittings. Used Toyota hoses for the upper and lower rad, Gates 5/8" hose for the heater circuit.

Pulled the thermostat without breaking a bolt, which was a nice treat. Pretty nasty in there, but everything cleaned up ok. I ordered a new thermostat from Toyota ($135 CDN!), but then went and tested this one and it works fine. I'll probably keep the new one for the FJ55 I'll be working on next. New gaskets and such on order as well. Previous owner evidently did not believe in gaskets.

While I was in there, I pulled the fan and fan belt. Predictably, the water pump shaft has play, so it looks like I'll be doing a water pump as well. Have a new belt on order, should be here this week.

I also noticed that the overflow fitting on the radiator filler neck was broken off, so I bought a brass fitting that I re-threaded to match the M10x1.0 hole I'd tapped in the filler neck. Threads sealed with aircraft thread sealant. Hopefully this will at least prevent hot coolant from spraying all over the engine bay. Will see what I can find at the junk yard for an overflow bottle. I did have a spare FJ62 bottle sitting around, but I used it in my Suzuki Samurai, so I'll have to figure something else out. Anyway here's the new fitting:

Other junk I've been doing:

- New center soft brake line for the front. Still waiting on soft lines for the calipers. Those should arrive this week, and then we can see if the brakes work!
- Made a fitting for the intake manifold for brake vacuum. The PO had plugged the vacuum port, so I'm not sure where he was pulling vacuum for the booster, but anyway. I drilled and tapped a brass NPT fitting, and again sealed the threads with aircraft thread sealer. So now I have vacuum for the brakes.

I also drained the old oil and threw on my go-to Wix 51515 filter (don't @ me). Went to refill with oil, and that's when I remembered that there was no valve cover gasket installed. So, after cleaning up a nice puddle of oil from the floor of my buddy's garage, I pulled out the gasket kit that I'd ordered from City Racer, and proceeded to spend the next 90 minutes fighting with the thing: the valve cover gasket was too small! I tried gluing in in place with dabs of FIPG, but that didn't work. I ended up stretching it out, which thankfully seems to have worked ok. I wonder if it had just shrunk over time? Very frustrating when brand new gaskets don't fit properly.

Lastly, I installed an in-line fuel filter. I think the fuel system is buttoned up. The brake system is almost done. The cooling system is almost good to go. What does that leave? I need to re-flange my t-case and shorten my front driveshaft. Transmission and t-case need fresh gear oil. Need to mount the bench seat. One more sheet metal patch to burn in. Need a windshield. So yeah, the end is in sight!


Anyway, that's all the news that's fit to print.

 

[FloridaLife]

I'm in a bit of a low cycle with this project: I feel like I'm spending a ton of time dicking around on annoying little sub-projects that don't offer the psychic reward that comes with making great strides toward getting the truck roadworthy. But at the end of the day, it all needs to get done.

What I've accomplished over the past little while...

Cooling System:
New rad hoses and heater hoses. Completed my rear heater delete by running a U-shaped hose between the heater core connector fittings. Used Toyota hoses for the upper and lower rad, Gates 5/8" hose for the heater circuit.
View attachment 3803887

Pulled the thermostat without breaking a bolt, which was a nice treat. Pretty nasty in there, but everything cleaned up ok. I ordered a new thermostat from Toyota ($135 CDN!), but then went and tested this one and it works fine. I'll probably keep the new one for the FJ55 I'll be working on next. New gaskets and such on order as well. Previous owner evidently did not believe in gaskets.

View attachment 3803896
View attachment 3803897
While I was in there, I pulled the fan and fan belt. Predictably, the water pump shaft has play, so it looks like I'll be doing a water pump as well. Have a new belt on order, should be here this week.

I also noticed that the overflow fitting on the radiator filler neck was broken off, so I bought a brass fitting that I re-threaded to match the M10x1.0 hole I'd tapped in the filler neck. Threads sealed with aircraft thread sealant. Hopefully this will at least prevent hot coolant from spraying all over the engine bay. Will see what I can find at the junk yard for an overflow bottle. I did have a spare FJ62 bottle sitting around, but I used it in my Suzuki Samurai, so I'll have to figure something else out. Anyway here's the new fitting:

View attachment 3803905

View attachment 3803906

View attachment 3803907

Other junk I've been doing:

- New center soft brake line for the front. Still waiting on soft lines for the calipers. Those should arrive this week, and then we can see if the brakes work!
- Made a fitting for the intake manifold for brake vacuum. The PO had plugged the vacuum port, so I'm not sure where he was pulling vacuum for the booster, but anyway. I drilled and tapped a brass NPT fitting, and again sealed the threads with aircraft thread sealer. So now I have vacuum for the brakes.

View attachment 3803908
I also drained the old oil and threw on my go-to Wix 51515 filter (don't @ me). Went to refill with oil, and that's when I remembered that there was no valve cover gasket installed. So, after cleaning up a nice puddle of oil from the floor of my buddy's garage, I pulled out the gasket kit that I'd ordered from City Racer, and proceeded to spend the next 90 minutes fighting with the thing: the valve cover gasket was too small! I tried gluing in in place with dabs of FIPG, but that didn't work. I ended up stretching it out, which thankfully seems to have worked ok. I wonder if it had just shrunk over time? Very frustrating when brand new gaskets don't fit properly.

Lastly, I installed an in-line fuel filter. I think the fuel system is buttoned up. The brake system is almost done. The cooling system is almost good to go. What does that leave? I need to re-flange my t-case and shorten my front driveshaft. Transmission and t-case need fresh gear oil. Need to mount the bench seat. One more sheet metal patch to burn in. Need a windshield. So yeah, the end is in sight!


Anyway, that's all the news that's fit to print.

Great job! For a FJ40, how often does the radiator overflow into the overflow jug (anyone)? The reason I ask is because my 1971 FJ40 does not have an overflow jug and I've been told it doesn't really need one???

 

[120mm]

Great job! For a FJ40, how often does the radiator overflow into the overflow jug (anyone)? The reason I ask is because my 1971 FJ40 does not have an overflow jug and I've been told it doesn't really need one???

It's not a sealed recirculation system, so no it doesn't really need it. Mine blows out overflow until it is at the bottom of the filler neck level and then motors happily along.

 

[pb4ugo]

Every time the engine warms up to operating temps the coolant is forced into the overflow, and when it cools it's sucked back into the rad. B4 coolant recovery or closed system the rad forced coolant out and on to the ground. Usually the coolant would find it's happy place overtime at the operating temps and stop forcing coolant out. If you were to check the coolant level it would be low because of the expansion.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Thanks for the reply, @120mm and @pb4ugo . I'm not too familiar with cooling systems in general, since I've spent most of my life working on air-cooled VWs. For the time being, I will attach a length of hose to the fitting so that the excess coolant drains in a somewhat controlled manner.

 

[FloridaLife]

Thanks for the reply, @120mm and @pb4ugo . I'm not too familiar with cooling systems in general, since I've spent most of my life working on air-cooled VWs. For the time being, I will attach a length of hose to the fitting so that the excess coolant drains in a somewhat controlled manner.

Agreed. I may see if I could rig up a jug somewhere, maybe one of those dual jugs with windshield washer fluid on one side and coolant on the other, or at the least run a length of hose. With the drivetrain out and everything being repainted, the last thing I need is hot radiator coolant spewing on the nice new paint.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Still attending to some of the finer details while I await delivery of my new water pump.

First, got the braking system finished. New soft lines at the steering knuckles. Did an initial gravity bleed which is already giving decent pedal feel. Fingers crossed that my zero-dollar brake cylinder rebuild works and that the rear wheel cylinders hold fluid! I can hear the rear brakes moving when I press the pedal, so I'm cautiously optimistic.

Also spent some time repairing the engine bay splash shield. This thing was completely caked in the thick layer of grime, to the point where I considered just throwing it away. But cooler heads prevailed, and after a lot of scraping and wire-wheeling and brake fluid-ing, it finally came clean. Discovered some stress cracks near the mounting holes that were no doubt caused by the additional weight of the grime that was encrusting the piece. Welded those up, hit it with some paint, and reinstalled.

Welding up the cracks:

Repainted splash guard:

Reinstalled, and looking oddly out of place amongst all the grime and rust:

Other stuff I'm working on:

- New gear oil in t-case and transmission. Drain plug magnets for each had some glitter, but nothing out of line based on my search of this forum. Fingers crossed.
- Front of engine cleaned up in prep for water pump install. New fan belt laid in as well.
- Contrary to what I said earlier, there is actually a ton of play in the steering. It seems to be all in the box, so I guess I'll be disassembling the steering box at some point to see what can be done to take out some of the slack. Based on my searching in this forum, the trick is to remove a shim or two from the sector shaft.

 

[locklaw]

Still attending to some of the finer details while I await delivery of my new water pump.

First, got the braking system finished. New soft lines at the steering knuckles. Did an initial gravity bleed which is already giving decent pedal feel. Fingers crossed that my zero-dollar brake cylinder rebuild works and that the rear wheel cylinders hold fluid! I can hear the rear brakes moving when I press the pedal, so I'm cautiously optimistic.

View attachment 3809850

Also spent some time repairing the engine bay splash shield. This thing was completely caked in the thick layer of grime, to the point where I considered just throwing it away. But cooler heads prevailed, and after a lot of scraping and wire-wheeling and brake fluid-ing, it finally came clean. Discovered some stress cracks near the mounting holes that were no doubt caused by the additional weight of the grime that was encrusting the piece. Welded those up, hit it with some paint, and reinstalled.

View attachment 3809851

Welding up the cracks:

View attachment 3809852

Repainted splash guard:

View attachment 3809853

Reinstalled, and looking oddly out of place amongst all the grime and rust:

View attachment 3809864

Other stuff I'm working on:

- New gear oil in t-case and transmission. Drain plug magnets for each had some glitter, but nothing out of line based on my search of this forum. Fingers crossed.
- Front of engine cleaned up in prep for water pump install. New fan belt laid in as well.
- Contrary to what I said earlier, there is actually a ton of play in the steering. It seems to be all in the box, so I guess I'll be disassembling the steering box at some point to see what can be done to take out some of the slack. Based on my searching in this forum, the trick is to remove a shim or two from the sector shaft.

Well done on this bigger job! Yep, taking out shims to bring the sector "closer" to the worm works great. Just don't overdo it else you can bind up the shaft when turning.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Thanks for the reply, @120mm and @pb4ugo . I'm not too familiar with cooling systems in general, since I've spent most of my life working on air-cooled VWs. For the time being, I will attach a length of hose to the fitting so that the excess coolant drains in a somewhat controlled manner.

Please note, that anti-freeze kills pets and wildlife. In a former life I treated several dogs who all ultimately succumbed to ethylene glycol poisoning. The old stuff tastes sweet. I have heard that they now add a flavoring that discourages drinking, but having watched too many dogs die from a horrible case of liver failure, it's not worth the risk. The overflow bottle from VintageTeqParts.com Home Page – VintageTEqParts.com - https://vintageteqparts.com/ and others are great.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Working on old vehicles is so great, especially when nothing makes sense. I spent today being mystified by front driveshaft issues, and I can’t figure out what’s going on.

When I bought the truck, it had no front driveshaft at all. Back when I was unaware of the differences between the various years of pinion and output flanges, I bought a front driveshaft from a guy, assuming it would bolt right up. I later realized that it would not fit the flanges on my ‘72. No big deal though, because I was going to swap in a disc brake axle that would have the later pinion flange. So all I would need would be a 10-spline t-case output shaft with the later flange size to match the later shaft.

Fast forward to today: I was able to source and install the later t-case output flange, and the driveshaft that I bought bolted up perfectly! But when I went to connect it to the pinion flange, it would not line up, so I pulled everything out and measured it all, and here’s what I found:

T-case end of front driveshaft:

It seems to be the 60mm x 64mm spacing that appeared on earlier trucks. This doesn’t make sense to me but I’m not going to worry about it because it fits.

Next is the other end of the prop shaft. This end connects to the pinion flange:

This looks like 58mm x 64mm spacing?

And here’s the pinion flange:

This one looks like 64mm x 68mm? Which doesn’t match any of the patterns on the @cruiseroutfit chart below.

So the upshot here is that I have three different sized flanges out of four, and I can’t imagine why that’s the case. I’m not looking for help here, unless anyone sees anything that is obviously out of whack, like for instance a flange from a 4Runner or some other breed of Toyota. Or maybe it’s a non-Toyota flange? Is that even possible? I’ll figure this out but for the moment it’s making my head hurt.