Builds Rescuing a Basket Case '72 FJ40

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I'm not an expert, but this is what I've been given to understand: self-etch is designed to create a strong chemical when applied to clean bare metal, making for solid adhesion for subsequent layers. I think red oxide is often applied over metal that has started to rust - probably more commonly in industrial applications?

Anyway, my truck has both bare metal and rusty metal, so I'm kind of spot-painting depending on what's happening on what part of the vehicle.

Maybe someone with better info will chime in!
Ding ding! Self etching is for bare surfaces - metal, fiberglass, some plastics. It's there to provide a hold for the next layer of primer to adhere to rather than the bare material. You really don't want to apply your paint directly to the self-etching primer. It can handle a little rust, like after a wire wheel or whatever but you wouldn't want to hose it over and expect it to seal in a ton. For that you should use rust inhibitor first. You also don't want to bondo on top of it.

The pros with spray booths and guns will tell you to use epoxy primer instead, which I would agree with. But when you are bomb canning, etch is fine as long as you top coat it with a sandable primer.

He's using a bomb can red oxide, not the brush on stuff like they use on bridges. It provides some rust protection, but is really just a sandable primer with some inhibitors. You absolutely still need to apply rust inhibitor like Rust-Mort and/or hit it with a wire wheel. Then the primer. Otherwise, the ghost of rust past will haunt you.

I like to use a filler primer when I have some rust pits. It fills them in nicely once sanded. Also glazing putting will be your new best friend when long boarding. It's much more forgiving than bondo and fills bondo pinholes nicely.

Also, primer is not UV resistant or a sealer. It will get chalky in the sun and let water through eventually.
 
I have a set of oem steelies in good shape. But shipping across the border wouldn’t be cheap.
 
Ding ding! Self etching is for bare surfaces - metal, fiberglass, some plastics. It's there to provide a hold for the next layer of primer to adhere to rather than the bare material. You really don't want to apply your paint directly to the self-etching primer. It can handle a little rust, like after a wire wheel or whatever but you wouldn't want to hose it over and expect it to seal in a ton. For that you should use rust inhibitor first. You also don't want to bondo on top of it.

The pros with spray booths and guns will tell you to use epoxy primer instead, which I would agree with. But when you are bomb canning, etch is fine as long as you top coat it with a sandable primer.

He's using a bomb can red oxide, not the brush on stuff like they use on bridges. It provides some rust protection, but is really just a sandable primer with some inhibitors. You absolutely still need to apply rust inhibitor like Rust-Mort and/or hit it with a wire wheel. Then the primer. Otherwise, the ghost of rust past will haunt you.

I like to use a filler primer when I have some rust pits. It fills them in nicely once sanded. Also glazing putting will be your new best friend when long boarding. It's much more forgiving than bondo and fills bondo pinholes nicely.

Also, primer is not UV resistant or a sealer. It will get chalky in the sun and let water through eventually.

Thanks for the detailed explanation! I've been basically doing what you describe. Etching primer on bare metal, followed by a 2k high-build primer, followed by top coat. The rusty spots that I didn't cut out have been hit with a rust converter, then the red oxide primer, which I will either topcoat directly, or add a high-build primer before topcoating, depending on the condition of the substrate. No significant area of primer will be left exposed to the elements.
 
I have a set of oem steelies in good shape. But shipping across the border wouldn’t be cheap.
Hmmm. I wonder what it would cost to ship them to Sweetgrass, MT? I'm only about 50 miles from the border, so it would be easy to pop down there to pick them up.

I will send you a DM about this.
 
Hmmm. I wonder what it would cost to ship them to Sweetgrass, MT? I'm only about 50 miles from the border, so it would be easy to pop down there to pick them up.

I will send you a DM about this.
You can get brand new OEM 40 wheels from a dealer, and they’re MUCH cheaper in Canada than they are in the states. Last time I checked it was about $70/wheel in CA and $130/wheel in the US. No idea why there’s a price differential.
 
You can get brand new OEM 40 wheels from a dealer, and they’re MUCH cheaper in Canada than they are in the states. Last time I checked it was about $70/wheel in CA and $130/wheel in the US. No idea why there’s a price differential.
Protectionist import tariffs?

EDIT: I called the dealer, and they are $130 CDN each, which is about $95 USD. So still a little cheaper but not crazy cheap.
 
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Protectionist import tariffs?

EDIT: I called the dealer, and they are $130 CDN each, which is about $95 USD. So still a little cheaper but not crazy cheap.
I assumed it was tariff related. That’s roughly 30% cheaper than here. Under $100 for a quality Toyota wheel? Seems like easy money…
 
I have updates.

After protracted bout of procrastination, I was finally left with no choice but to start work on this rusty quarter panel. Most of the quarter is pretty decent, actually, except for one long, thin strip where the inner fender attaches. Lots of rust jacking and super-thin sheet metal in that one spot. I'd been putting it off because the section is 24" long, which means over 4 linear feet of welding and - even worse - 4 linear feet of grinding.

Here's the status quo situation:

fj40251.jpg

For a large panel like this, I like to use the Fitzee Fabrications "Cut n' Butt" technique. It involves tacking the patch over the rusted section, like so:

fj40252.jpg


You then systematically cut under the patch with a thin cut-off wheel, re-tacking as you go. This helps a ton with panel alignment, and basically does away with clamps, magnets, etc. It's a bit of a pain to be constantly switching between welder and grinder, but in the end I think it pays off in a cleaner patch and really good fit-up. Here is the patch fully tacked in, with the original metal removed from behind.

fj40253.jpg


From this point, it was just a matter of stacking tacks. I took it super slow, waiting for the panel to cool completely between rounds of welding. A perfectly flat panel like this will distort like crazy if you put too much heat into it all at once.

And here's the panel fully welded and welds ground as flush as I dared. I did experience some caving, but a lot less than expected. The panel wasn't completely flat to begin with, which didn't help matters either.

fj40254.jpg


After filler and a light coat of etching primer, it's looking halfway decent!

fj40256.jpg


Oh, and I also had to re-attach the inner fender. Drilled some fresh holes for plug-welding. It's really ugly, but it'll hold.

fj40255.jpg
 
...and with the quarter panel repair complete, I moved on to the last major piece of rust repair that I'll be going on this truck: the front of the driver's side inner fender.

fj40116.jpg


This was a tricky panel to make as it involves a tipped flange, a raised bead, and a curve.

I used the bead roller to make the raised bead, and then used this jury-rigged contraption to add the curve. I just clamped the panel to a piece of pipe and hammered it into submission.

fj40257.jpg


Here's the roughly-sized patch ready for fit-up:

fj40258.jpg


Didn't have a chance to get it welded in, as it needs a bit more trimming, but we're getting close!

fj40259.jpg


And, that's where we're at! I'm excited to move on to electrical and mechanical stuff.
 
I have a process in that I have two pipes held together , the metal lays on top and a third pipe on top of the metal. This way the metal is hit evenly by the third pipe. Push the metal to create the curve you need.
We all find ways to make it look good.
 
I have a process in that I have two pipes held together , the metal lays on top and a third pipe on top of the metal. This way the metal is hit evenly by the third pipe. Push the metal to create the curve you need.
We all find ways to make it look good.
I'll have to remember that method, as I'm sure it yields a nice, consistent curve. In my particular case, I didn't even need a full 90 degree bend, so I knew I could fudge it.
 
Progress continues slowly on the 40. I'm starting to look at some of the mechanical things: last night I pulled the air cleaner off to see what I'm going to be dealing with, carb-wise. I'm guessing that I'm going to have to rebuild it, based on its outward appearance. But we shall see. The choke linkage was bent and the choke cable is completely seized, so that doesn't bode well either.

I was able to install my fuel tank, too, which is exciting. The original tank had rusted through, so I'm installing a later tank and cover. The '72 didn't have a cover, so I've used nutserts to hold it in place.

fj40261.jpg


fj40262.jpg


I actually have a question about fuel line routing: on the later tanks, I believe that the outlet is on the bottom left-hand side of the tank, and the return is on the side? Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming that the fuel pump on my F155 does not have a return. Would I then block off the return at the tank? I've done a search and haven't found a clear answer to this question.

I'll also be installing the fuel separator, and my plan right now is to stash it inside the back of the passenger seat. The 72 didn't have a separator, so i don't have a bracket for it, etc.
 
I have a little more progress to report on this old 40. Finally got the rear fender patch fully burned in. It took a long time because I ran out of shielding gas, and then I couldn't find the time to get over to the welding supply store to get a fresh tank. Anyway, it's in and looking decent. Aside from the cargo floor, this is the last piece of rust repair that this truck needs, so it's a an exciting milestone for sure.

Here's where I ran out of gas:

fj40263.jpg


And here it is, fully welded in, welds ground, and a coat of primer:

fj40264.jpg


I'm now working on seeing if I can get the engine to fire. The electrical is a disaster waiting to happen, so before I even think of throwing a battery into this thing, I need to delete stuff like this:

fj40265.jpg


Yes, that mess comes right off the hot side of the battery. The white wire is a piece of house wiring, and the other wire goes to this:

fj40266.jpg


...a ring connector hung loosely around the terminal on the rusted-out flasher relay. No idea what someone was trying to accomplish here, but this is an example of the stuff that needs to be addressed before starting it up. My goal is to have it running by mid-June, fingers crossed!
 
I have a little more progress to report on this old 40. Finally got the rear fender patch fully burned in. It took a long time because I ran out of shielding gas, and then I couldn't find the time to get over to the welding supply store to get a fresh tank. Anyway, it's in and looking decent. Aside from the cargo floor, this is the last piece of rust repair that this truck needs, so it's a an exciting milestone for sure.

Here's where I ran out of gas:

View attachment 3642008

And here it is, fully welded in, welds ground, and a coat of primer:

View attachment 3642009

I'm now working on seeing if I can get the engine to fire. The electrical is a disaster waiting to happen, so before I even think of throwing a battery into this thing, I need to delete stuff like this:

View attachment 3642010

Yes, that mess comes right off the hot side of the battery. The white wire is a piece of house wiring, and the other wire goes to this:

View attachment 3642012

...a ring connector hung loosely around the terminal on the rusted-out flasher relay. No idea what someone was trying to accomplish here, but this is an example of the stuff that needs to be addressed before starting it up. My goal is to have it running by mid-June, fingers crossed!
Sweet job on the patch
 
Have only had a few hours here and there to work on the 40, but things are progressing slowly regardless.

Sourced a nice set of OE steelies. Someone's already done the work of blasting and painting them, so that's a bonus. Now to find some affordable rubber to put on them!

fj40267.jpg


Little did I know that there was a Toyota 4x4 boneyard the next town over! They are mostly into 4Runners, but had a few skeletal 40s as well. Found a few other parts that I'd been looking for, so that's a bonus.

fj40268.jpg


fj40269.jpg
 
Have also been sourcing some new parts, this time from City Racer. I'm always impressed with the accuracy and speed of their service. Definitely one of my favourite companies to deal with for Cruiser parts.

New ignition switch installed (OG switch was missing):

fj40270.jpg


Also a new fuel filler neck hose. The old one was so stiff that it was proving impossible to install the filler neck. Now I just need to run the rest of the fuel lines and we should be good to go from a fuel delivery standpoint.

fj40271.jpg


I'm also plugging away at the electrical. I pulled the empty fuse block and gave it a good cleaning.

fj40272.jpg

After a bit of work with wire brushes and emery paper, the contacts looking much cleaner.

fj40273.jpg


I'm using the Haynes wiring diagram to install the fuses, but the wires on the diagram appear to be in a different order than on the truck. I'll get it figured out, but wondering if anyone has a comment on the accuracy of the Haynes wiring diagrams? haha.
 
Summer has been crazy busy, but I'm still finding time to work on the 40 here and there. I've been trying to clean up the engine bay, scraping away grease and caked-on dirt and removing extraneous previous owner mystery wiring.

I also pulled the carb so that I could give it a cleaning and a good once-over. The first thing I noticed was the absence of any sort of gasket, so I dug out my gasket paper and made gaskets for the top and bottom of the carb isolator.

fj40274.jpg


Carb reinstalled. I lubed up all of the various linkages, etc. All in all, it looks to be in decent shape! I was also able to free up the choke cable, which was completely seized.

fj40277.jpg


I also set about repairing some janky electrical stuff that was cluttering the engine bay. I deleted way too many of these butt connectors in my efforts to return the wiring to stock.

fj40278.jpg


Included in the non-stock wiring was a second foot switch that confused the heck out of me initially, because I thought it was a stock switch! Upon closer inspection, it was a cheap aftermarket switch that looked nothing like the Toyota switch. Anyway, both switches were broken, but by a sheer stroke of luck, I happened to have a NOS foot switch in my parts stash! It came to me in a box of parts that was in the back of my 62. I'd set it aside because of the cool box, but never thought I'd actually use it.

fj40279.jpg


And here you can see where a previous owner cut three holes in the floor to add that second foot switch. Previous owners do the craziest things!

fj40280.jpg


I pulled the plugs and cleaned and gapped them, tested the coil, and did a few other things in preparation for the first fire of this engine in many years! More on that in the next post.
 
Last night I invited some buddies over to the garage for the ceremonial first start. It's hard to believe, but the old F155 started at the first turn of the key, and maintained an idle as long as I kept dumping fuel down the carb. We were also able to get the stock pump to pull fuel from a jerry can, which is good news! I was afraid I'd be looking at a pump rebuild, but so far so good. It won't idle when pulling from the jerry can, but I'll sort that out later. At least it appears to be a viable engine, so I'll keep working on things like replacing the coolant hoses as I have time.

Here's a quick video of the first fire:

There are many things left to do on this truck, including:

- Rear cargo floor
- Fabricate seat mounts
- A bunch of electrical, including rewiring the signal lights that were messed with by a previous owner
- Front disc brake axle swap
- Clutch master cylinder
- Rear brakes and wheel bearings
 
The second dimmer switch with the 3 added holes to the driver's side floor board is a real head scratcher. Just when you think that you've seen it all... Love to see the ceremonial first start. Great job!
 

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