Request for advice where to start our 71 project (1 Viewer)

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4Cruisers said:
I have quite a few new brass screws for that butterfly, I bought a package of 50 (minimum order quantity) when I had to work on my carburetor. PM me your address and I'll send you some. Check with @pardion for miscellaneous carburetor parts, he may be able to help you out.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much.
 
You're already a ways along, but I think I'd suggest a slightly different path forward. I think I'd pull the engine. I'd put it on a stand and rebuild it myself. Your daughter would learn so much along the way, you'd have a chance to replace all the old seals and gaskets that have probably deteriorated badly while the vehicle sat, you'd be able to clean everything up with easy access, and you'll be able to see what you're doing. While the engine is out I'd clean out the engine compartment. Use the easier access to redo the brake and clutch systems. You're going to have to split the engine and transmission to service the clutch anyway. So I would pull the engine and rebuild it. That can seem a bit intimidating, but there are good resources available to help. Collect boxes and zipper bags to keep things organized, watch some youtube videos, get a good service manual, make sure you have the tools needed by reading the manual before you start, and then get after it. It can be done in a weekend (assuming nothing needs to be sent out for machining), but for a first time maybe assume that it'll take a few weekends.
 
Seth aka @pigmony I hear what you are saying and don't totally disagree. The problem is there are not enough hours in the day for all the things I need to do so adding one more major project does not make sense at this time. I currently have a 66 FJ45LV, 57 356A, 68 912 and a 1950 Classic wood boat all screaming for attention. There are others as well, those are just the "major" projects. So you can see, if I have finally learned to not add one more major project to the list. This is why it will stay a rolling project as long as possible.

I think I will take my gas tank in and see what they say before buying a new one. We will see what they think about it.

Still need carb butterfly if anyone has one. thx
 
I hear you!!! Get it running and enjoy it!! To quote David Freiburger's mantra: "don't get it right, just get it running". A running and driving FJ40 is way more fun to own than a project sitting in your shop or garage. You can fix it up as you drive it and teach your daughter lots of skills and create lots of memories on a running and driving FJ40.

The one exception I would add is "get the brakes right"! Obviously safety is pretty important!! :)
 
merbesfield said:
Can someone help ID my carb? According to the stamping on top it should be April 1972. 2D 10
Before I order the kit if someone could confirm this. Of course I will call Cruiser Outfitters and chat with them. Unfortunately I am missing one of the brass butterflies. I hope this part is available or if someone has an extra piece let me know. I wanted to send the carburetor to JimC but he is 6 weeks out. I’m sure by the time I get around to it I could/should have sent it to him LOL. But I guess we will give it a try and rebuild it ourselves. Emily has never torn a Carb apart so even it it’s not successful it will still be fun.
Click to expand...
It defiantly looks like a 9/69-12/74 Carburetor, which one I am not sure.

This will help you identify it. Click on the tab that says Carburetor Identifier

FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 and FJ60 Land Cruiser Carburetors, Parts, Kits & Gaskets

9/69-7/87 Land Cruiser Carburetors, carburetor rebuild kits, rebuilt land cruiser carburetors, jets, gaskets, non USA carburetors
www.sor.com www.sor.com

MM
 
It looks like it has this tab (red circle). I can't tell from the pics but should not have a vacuum line fitting (red arrow).

Carb (tab).jpg


Yours should look like this one below.

Carb 02.jpg
 
Mathew, you are an awesome. You are right, I can't tell from my pics either if it has the vacuum line fitting. I will go out back and check. From the numbers stamped on the top of carb, it appears to be April of 1972. I am getting a bit confused be the PO told me the motor was a 78, but who knows. There is also so antiquated emissions stuff in the engine compartment that needs to go away. I believe I posted it above.
 
merbesfield said:
Mathew, you are an awesome. You are right, I can't tell from my pics either if it has the vacuum line fitting. I will go out back and check. From the numbers stamped on the top of carb, it appears to be April of 1972. I am getting a bit confused be the PO told me the motor was a 78, but who knows. There is also so antiquated emissions stuff in the engine compartment that needs to go away. I believe I posted it above.
Click to expand...
The PO probably swapped out the motor from a 78, but used the carb from the original motor. The date of your VIN seems to match the date of your carb :)

Yes your motor is a 2F and your FJ40 originally would have come with the earlier F motor. You can look at the number on the block and look it up. It will tell you what it is. That is easy to look up :)

Frequently Asked Questions About Your Land Cruiser - Specter Off-Road

Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and FJ40 to FJ45 BJ40 FJ55 FJ60 BJ60 FJ62 FJ70 BJ70 FJ80 and 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in restoration parts for both...
www.sor.com www.sor.com
 
Last edited:
merbesfield said:
Here is my daughter, Emily, doing something. Funny in this set of pics I see the carburetor so hopefully I can find it. Oh yea, the engine is out of a 78 if than makes a difference. It was rebuilt before it was in SBT the PO.
View attachment 2628350
Click to expand...
get it running to see in fact if it will even run then get into the hydrolic systems, you have to be able to stop it !!!! and shift it. pull off the drums and inspect the wheel cylinders the chances of then leaking are pretty good for as long as it has been sitting. You need to decide how long and how much you are willing to dedicate to the finished project every one who has worked on them knows you can really throw some dough at them. good luck to you and your daughter it will be a learning experience and their are plenty of great folks that can answer your Questions here on MUD
 
This is the carb kit you need:

www.carburetor-parts.com

Aisan Carburetor Rebuild Kit

www.carburetor-parts.com www.carburetor-parts.com

he is out of stock as i bought the last 2 he had on monday. Got them today.
 
fine with me, I am in jacksonville, you could almost throw it to me. PM Me.
 
I have two Carburetors. My engine is a late 76 to early 77 2F. The engine came with a 71 Carburetor, likely the one that was on the original F engine at time of engine swap. I happen to have a Carburetor from that exact time period (Federal 76-77). Is there a reason to run one or the other? Both must be rebuilt. The 76-77 looks more complicated and appears to have emission stuff on it, which I am guessing would need to be deleted, i.e. desmogged. So is it better to stick with the early Carburetor that came on the original F motor or go with the later date matched Carburetor? TIA.
976EECD3-72FB-4561-AF44-17AD715E2605.jpeg
2982A60A-AA3E-4E50-B0FD-78A8B3890766.jpeg
D4A8B905-1352-4C4C-A44A-FF6F7D588CCE.jpeg
 
The '76/'77 has ported vacuum, the '71 doesn't. If you want distributor vacuum advance the '76/'76 would be an easy choice, but a port can be added. The '76/'77 has the provision for the air cleaner stud, the '71 doesn't. It looks like you have the '71 air cleaner set-up, which doesn't use a stud.
 
Where does the vacuum hose from the distributor vacuum nipple go? It looks like you have a '77 vacuum advance distributor, which is the best (and latest) 2F points distributor. Does the breaker plate rotate CCW when vacuum is applied to the nipple on the advancer? If it doesn't, or seems sluggish, all it may need is to have the old grease cleaned out and reassembled with new distributor grease. Sometimes the 50 small ball bearings inside have to be replaced (they can develop flat spots). I have a lot of those, plus new races if they are really worn (I sell an inexpensive "kit" - races, ball bearings, and clips). And there's a bushing on the mechanical advance stop pin under the breaker plate that's usually gone, but can be easily replaced with a nylon or aluminum sleeve from the hardware store. Search the forums for the stop pin bushing replacement.
 
Well I went to Wikipedia and did some reading. I know about 1% more than I did before, but I’m trying to learn. So the question is, what is better for my engine and situation. Again I am a newbie regarding mechanical engine related stuff. Never even timed a car myself. Watched it done before but never myself. Same goes to valve adjustments and pretty much everything engine related.
 
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