Pura Vida
What an absolute noob
Idk, I would pop the hood and look at the mounting points for the fender to see if brackets are bent or something
Request for advice where to start our 71 project
- Thread starter merbesfield
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DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
I know you are planning to keep the patina. I like that idea and would do the same!!
What I would do about this alignment issue is take the entire front clip off and make sure the fenders, apron, grill, etc. are all as straight as possible. Then I would buy all new bolts for the front end, bushings for the radiator support and hood, etc. Put it all back together with all the bolts loose, get someone to help make sure everything is lined up, then tighten everything down. You may have to drill out a few holes in the fenders and use a few shims, maybe a ratchet strap or two to hold everything straight and to get everything to line up before you tighten it all down, but as you know, this is normal body panel alignment stuff. As long as the frame and tub are straight, the rest of the panels should be able to be lined up pretty straight.
While I had the front clip off, I would take the opportunity to address some maintenance and reliability issues. I would clean up the engine, firewall, go through all the wiring (replace any old or crappy wiring), probably go ahead and replace the belts and hoses, etc. Maybe do a little detailing under the hood and the back of the fenders. You don't have to paint anything, but you can seal any rust areas with a rust converter. I recently bought some Corroseal rust converter for my FJ40 and put a little on the frame and rusty part of the fenders on my FJ55 just to see what it looks like and it looks good. It dried sort of a dark rust color (very patina like) and should keep the rust from continuing for the next couple years.
MM
What I would do about this alignment issue is take the entire front clip off and make sure the fenders, apron, grill, etc. are all as straight as possible. Then I would buy all new bolts for the front end, bushings for the radiator support and hood, etc. Put it all back together with all the bolts loose, get someone to help make sure everything is lined up, then tighten everything down. You may have to drill out a few holes in the fenders and use a few shims, maybe a ratchet strap or two to hold everything straight and to get everything to line up before you tighten it all down, but as you know, this is normal body panel alignment stuff. As long as the frame and tub are straight, the rest of the panels should be able to be lined up pretty straight.
While I had the front clip off, I would take the opportunity to address some maintenance and reliability issues. I would clean up the engine, firewall, go through all the wiring (replace any old or crappy wiring), probably go ahead and replace the belts and hoses, etc. Maybe do a little detailing under the hood and the back of the fenders. You don't have to paint anything, but you can seal any rust areas with a rust converter. I recently bought some Corroseal rust converter for my FJ40 and put a little on the frame and rusty part of the fenders on my FJ55 just to see what it looks like and it looks good. It dried sort of a dark rust color (very patina like) and should keep the rust from continuing for the next couple years.
MM
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Pura Vida
What an absolute noob
Or a rubber mallet if you don’t want to spend so muchI know you are planning to keep the patina. I like that idea and would do the same!!
What I would do about this alignment issue is take the entire front clip off and make sure the fenders, apron, grill, etc. are all as straight as possible. Then I would buy all new bolts for the front end, bushings for the radiator support and hood, etc. Put is all back together with all the bolts loose, get someone to help make sure everything is lined up, then tighten everything down. You may have to drill out a few holes in the fenders and use a few shims, maybe a ratchet strap or two to hold everything straight and to get everything to line up before you tighten it all down, but as you know, this is normal body panel alignment stuff. As long as the frame and tub are straight, the rest of the panels should be able to be lined up pretty straight.
While I had the front clip off, I would take the opportunity to address some maintenance and reliability issues. I would clean up the engine, firewall, go through all the wiring (replace any old or crappy wiring), probably go ahead and replace the belts and hoses, etc. Maybe do a little detailing under the hood and the back of the fenders. You don't have to paint anything, but you can seal any rust areas with a rust converter. I recently bought some Corroseal rust converter for my FJ40 and put a little on the frame and rusty part of the fenders on my FJ55 just to see what it looks like and it looks good. It dried sort of a dark rust color (very patina like) and should keep the rust from continuing for the next couple years.
Let me know if you need help and want to do a "Tuesday work night" at the shopI think we could knock this out on a Saturday!
MM
merbesfield
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #104
Mathew, this is "exactly" what I am planning on doing. I am very confident that nearly every bolt will break based on my luck thus far. Very few seem to want to come out given the degree of rust and length of time they have sat. But have not fear, they will surrender. The tiny screws for the seat backs are currently giving us fits. Almost everyone is rusted beyond use. What is crazy is that non of my drill bits seem to want to drill through these screws. I don't know what kind of metal they used, but it is weird. Even with brand new bits, they just barely cut. Emily is slowing stripping the seats so I can get the to the Powder Coaters. Fun stuff.
Krondor
SILVER Star
If you are having some issues with breaking bolts, Spray heavily with Kroil or PB blaster and let it soak in for a day two. I would also recommend left hand drill bits. They tend to grab while drilling out the bolt which sometimes unscrews the bolt before you have to use an extractor.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #106
Thanks for reminding me about the LH bits. I have been meaning to order them. Will do now. Any recommendation on sizes typically used?
Edit: I am surprised how expensive these LH bits are. Any suggestions on size and quality level of bit would be appreciated. I went McMaster Carr.
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Krondor
SILVER Star
I just bought a standard 15 piece set off ebay. I believe it was similar to the link below:
XtremepowerUS 15 Pc. Left Hand Drill Bit Set Black and Gold 135 Degree Split | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for XtremepowerUS 15 Pc. Left Hand Drill Bit Set Black and Gold 135 Degree Split at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
merbesfield
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #108
I just bought a standard 15 piece set off ebay. I believe it was similar to the link below:
XtremepowerUS 15 Pc. Left Hand Drill Bit Set Black and Gold 135 Degree Split | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for XtremepowerUS 15 Pc. Left Hand Drill Bit Set Black and Gold 135 Degree Split at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
That is significantly less than the ones at MC. Are they good quality? Have they lasted?
Krondor
SILVER Star
They are pretty decent quality from what I can tell. I am not a drill bit expert but they are sharp and drill nice holes.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #110
LOL, "drill bit expert". I ordered them. I am sure I can supplement what I need with individual bits as I go along. Also need to refresh my taps.
Full Kit | Yellow Zinc Plated | FJ40
Keep Your Cruiser Correct-Custom Toyota Land Cruiser Bolts, Nuts & Screws, Stainless Available, We Only Sell Cruiser Hardware-FREE Shipping
www.overlandmetric.com
that is all the nuts and bolts you need for the truck. get a ratchet and impact driver and snap the old ones off. I use my Milwaukee impact. snap off the old, use a ziplock and sharpie and make a baggie of the new replacements. There are a few fasteners not in that kit, like all the phillips head SEMS, but they are available on the metric site also.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #112
Full Kit | Yellow Zinc Plated | FJ40
Keep Your Cruiser Correct-Custom Toyota Land Cruiser Bolts, Nuts & Screws, Stainless Available, We Only Sell Cruiser Hardware-FREE Shipping
that is all the nuts and bolts you need for the truck. get a ratchet and impact driver and snap the old ones off. I use my Milwaukee impact. snap off the old, use a ziplock and sharpie and make a baggie of the new replacements. There are a few fasteners not in that kit, like all the phillips head SEMS, but they are available on the metric site also.
Good plan. I will place my order. It’s kind of funny because 15 years ago when I started with my first cruiser JIS bolts were not easily available so I sourced all my own from with a buddy of mine who owns a nut and bolt business and we had them all yellow zinc plated. I thought at the time “hey I can make a business of this” but I thought not enough people would want to buy it to justify the time and investment. Fast forward 15 years and now everybody’s into restoring their cruisers. I’m glad to see somebody made a business of it.
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I'm reading thru this thread, giving you a mind dump, then I'm going back to work.
Step 1: now that it's sat out with no carburetor, does the engine even turn over? If it does, are the valves stuck?
The carbs are problematic. The F carb is usually easier, but it doesn't like to sit on a 2F intake manifold, the throttle arm interferes with a manifold bolt. Also the extra width of the 2F intake manifold puts the carb into the brake master cylinder. Since there is an F aircleaner in place, it's prolly easiest to run an F carb because the truck is set up for it. The F carb that you have is trash. The throttles are very rusted, stuck & bent, which is why the butterfly has been torn off. Don't throw out the carb, because it does have the often missing throttle linkage & fuel fittings.
Since you have the parts and the front brakes & knuckles need serviced, definitely do a knuckle rebuild & upgrade to maintenance free front disc brakes. If changing to discs, consider upgrading to a more powerful 7/8" brake MC, vs the stock 1".
Yes, the wheels are easily welded, then grind off rivet heads. Has been done many times before.
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That is the actuator cable for FWD engagement. It goes through the firewall and is mounted in the instrument panel by the Hi-Lo lever.
Also note in this pic the valve cover breather fitting that points upward is open to atmosphere and underneath the firewall lip, so that all the rain for the past ten years has been splashing into the engine crankcase. It would be very surprising if the engine is still free.
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The emissions VSV. Remove & discard, since the vehicle is no longer emissions compliant. Also remove the little "emissions computer" located inside cab, next to the clutch pedal.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #116
Hi Jim. Thx for your time and advice. I have kept the engine lubed over the years w oil in Cylinders and the oil in the crankcase looks brand new. Of course I will be changing it before attempting to start. As I mentioned I actually drove this thing onto the trailer when I rescued it. I agree carb is rough for sure which was my concern and reason for reaching out to you the pro. So I guess I need to look for a replacement? I have a butterfly on the way so I’ll give it a try but.... I’m not sure what you are referring to about the breather and water into crankcase. Can you circle the part?
merbesfield
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- Thread starter
- #117
Agree will run the F or another. Will attempt rebuild or send to you. Has not been off truck for long <1 yr, and when I removed it I covered the intake for protection. I broke the butterfly off when I decided to take it off for some dumb reason. Of course didn’t know it was staked on back. Live and learn. Bought the FJ80 MC for f&r disc setup as well as other necessary parts. New gas tank etc. I did the conversion on my FJ45LV project so other than knuckle conversion should be straight forward.
Thx for confirmation of wheel welding. Only made sense to me as well.
merbesfield
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- Thread starter
- #118
@FJ40Jim I started messing with the carburetor and it’s actually not as bad as I thought. With a little PB blaster it loosened up quite easily other than I think the thing you calling the secondary which I’ll continue to work on. Yes the linkage is a bit corroded but I can media blast that and worry about plating later. Is the intake manifold bolt you’re talking about what I have shown in the picture below? I set the carburetor in place and it doesn’t seem to be interfering and has free movement. I do see where it appears part of the linkage which I have the second arrow pointed has been bent but I’m not sure that would interfere. I’m sure that can be straightened out. Can you elaborate please? Thank you Mark
PS I measured the butterfly that I’m missing and it looks like it’s about 37.5 mm so I guess that’s one you’re calling 38 mm. I have another carburetor from 76-77 era and one of its butterflies seems to be that size. Would it work?
PS I measured the butterfly that I’m missing and it looks like it’s about 37.5 mm so I guess that’s one you’re calling 38 mm. I have another carburetor from 76-77 era and one of its butterflies seems to be that size. Would it work?
merbesfield
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- Thread starter
- #119
I received the butterfly in the mail and I “think” it’s right. I say think bc you have to wiggle it a tiny bit to get it into the bore. It seems to measure out and fits the opening. What do you experts think? Thank you @Wadesters for taking the time to get this piece to me. And thank you @4Cruisers for sending the screws I need to put it back together. Let me know what you guys think before I move any further with rebuilding.
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merbesfield
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- #120
Still looking for some input from you experts out there on this butterfly and how to get the secondary shaft unstuck.
