Request for advice where to start our 71 project

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It also looks like a new brake master cylinder might be in your future. I wanted to mention, I bought two remanufactured masters in a row that didn't work right. They would build pressure but not release. The brakes would start dragging as I was driving and I had to open a bleeder nipple on a wheel cylinder to release the pressure and continue driving. Found a new Aisin part number master (for double the price) and haven't had a brake issue since. Finally freed me to move on to the next problem.

Agreed. I have had similar issues w reman in the past. Where did you find it?
 
While not sleeping last night I was going over this exact situation in my mind. I had the idea, couldn’t I weld the seams and then grind down the rivets? Seems like it would work given folks weld wheels to widen them etc. I could also buy 16” from City Racer but that’s just spending money at the beginning of the project that will be needed for other more important items.

I would be hesitant about doing that, as it will possibly unbalance the wheel, weaken it, etc. Wheels are something that I would leave to a professional.
 
I have a '71 that I'm starting to build after being off the road since 2001. At the time it was last registered it had a '76 2F from the PO (with the '71 F engine carburetor and intake/exhaust manifold) , a non-US vacuum advance distributor, front disc brake conversion using mini-truck/FJ60/4-Runner parts, power steering conversion using mini-truck/Tercel parts, a 4-speed/transfer case from a '78 FJ55, and FJ60 chrome spoke wheels with BFG 30X9.50R15 ATs. For the build I'll be installing an H41 4-speed from an '84 HJ47 mated to a split transfer case from an '85 BJ45 (3:1 gears), 3.70 differentials from an '82 FJ60, 70-Series wheels with BFG LT235/85R16 ATs, 3FE exhaust manifolds, and a '76 air cleaner assembly. I'll also be installing a new OME suspension.

The first thing I did to get the engine running was to change the oil and filter, drain and refill the radiator and cooling system, replace the fuel filter, rebuild the carburetor, clean and drain the fuel tank, blow out the fuel lines from the tank, and replace the plugs/points/condenser/coil. I did a valve adjustment soon afterwards. I haven't checked the front brakes yet because the upgraded axle only had a few thousand miles on it. I have all the parts for another front disc brake axle, so will build that and swap the current one into my '76 FJ40. One option for front disc brakes is simply to swap in an axle from a '76 or later FJ40 as mentioned above.

Sounds like a great project you have and you definitely seem to know your cruisers. I really appreciate all the positive responses everyone is offering. I appreciate the orderly list of things to do. I will get a white board and make our list. This will also be a leaning/teaching process for both me and my daughter. It sounds like it will be easier for me to source a disc brake axle vs building one with the parts I have. If anyone in close proximity to Atlanta, GA has one hit me up please.
 
That things cool, don't paint it

Good Luck

We don’t want to paint it and have no intention at this time. That being said, it is very rusty and the floors are shot. Not sure yet how best to deal with that. I definitely don’t want another rotisserie project. I already have three right now. This needs to stay a rolling project.
 
The patina on that is great! Please keep it. Now, what you really want to do is completely tear it all apart and fully restore the frame.....

Just kidding. I would change fluids, probably pull the fuel tank and try to clean it if it has been sitting for that long, and see if you can get it driving. I personally would go with disk brakes if possible. Much easier maintenance wise, and you don't need to be adjusting them all the time. I would start putting some oil down the cylinders, especially if it has been sitting with the carb off, long before you try to start it.

That looks like a great project, getting it running and enjoying it will be the best.

No frame off for this one. We will get the tank pulled and inspected to see if it’s workable. I am planning on front disc so need to find an axle. May do rear disc too. I have done them on my LV and it was easy.

ADDED link to thread with pats no’s. Disc brake conversion, again... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/disc-brake-conversion-again.1211052/
 
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I would be hesitant about doing that, as it will possibly unbalance the wheel, weaken it, etc. Wheels are something that I would leave to a professional.

I hear ya, but I have seen many folks, pros and amateur weld wheels. I am sure I could outsource it as well so maybe I’ll look at that. I have watched wheel welding being done and it’s definitely NOT rocket science. The most important part would be to have good penetration with you welds. My 220V welder is good at that.
 
I am starting to have miscellaneous questions and in order to keep things cleaner I will post them individually. Thanks in advance for your help. Most of my questions center around “what is the” or “what does this do”. The engine in this 71 is a 78 and it is clear that there are some questionable things left off or hanging or not installed. So I will have to figure it out one by one.
 
I am starting to have miscellaneous questions and in order to keep things cleaner I will post them individually. Thanks in advance for your help. Most of my questions center around “what is the” or “what does this do”. The engine in this 71 is a 78 and it is clear that there are some questionable things left off or hanging or not installed. So I will have to figure it out one by one.
No worries, mud always comes in to save the day within minutes
 
What is this hose with a hardware store Tee? It attaches to some kind of block on the firewall that has a hard line going over to the 4x4 system I think.
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What is this hose with a hardware store Tee? It attaches to some kind of block on the firewall that has a hard line going over to the 4x4 system I think.
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That goes to the vacuum front drive engagement diaphragm on the transfer case. Has your '71 been converted over to manual front drive engagement with a floor shifter? If so, that block on the firewall can come off along with anything else under the dash, including the lever/linkage/brackets.
 
That goes to the vacuum front drive engagement diaphragm on the transfer case. Has your '71 been converted over to manual front drive engagement with a floor shifter? If so, that block on the firewall can come off along with anything else under the dash, including the lever/linkage/brackets.

Well this is interesting. No it has not been converted to many front engagement. Nothing on the floor. It does have the lever on the dash, which of course is frozen solid. So it sounds like I have one more system that will have to be dealt with. For some reason this is something I’m not looking forward to. Is it complicated? From the looks of it, it appears very crusty. It have Warn free wheeling hubs fwiw.
 

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