No, you will get a message once the “order is delivered to the warehouse”. For me that took nine days from initial order.
replacing AHC globes/accumulators (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter pete100
- Start date
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Nah, you should get confirmation once the globes arrive at their warehouse though. If you check the “orders” tab, that should confirm what you purchased.
So I did another run of test, and gradation test is pretty stable at 9~10 ticks.
- Front Pressure: 5.8 Mpa (6.4 if I sit in)
- Rear Pressure: 6.9 MPa (7.1 if I sit in)
- Accumulator Pressure: 10.7 MPa
- Gradation test: 9~10 steps!
Really don't know why the gradation test is getting better from 6 ticks, after cranked the TB. I also did a test drive over bump, and expected the ride should be better with the better gradation test result. However, I couldn't feel any difference, and the ride of LX is still bumpier than my other SUV with conventional suspension, no matter if I set the suspension to Comfort or Sport.
Rear pressure is a bit high, front is a bit low. If you don't plan on adding any weight, it might be worth a turn off the torsion bars. Rear would benefit from a pair of spacers or King if you plan to add weight (sorry if you already mentioned changing springs).
I wouldn't expect those minimal pressure deviations to cause a bumpy ride, though.
Is it bumpy at all speeds? Or just low speeds? If I recall, you've got old rear control arms. That's improved both my 100's, though more with my 99 at 275k than my 06 with 225k. Probably worth doing if you plan to keep the car a while.
I wonder about AHC shocks. I might take a gamble and buy new front shocks and see if I can detect any difference. There is some pressurized gas in them and there are internal seals.
Yeah, I have the Ironman front bumper and ASFIR skid plates waiting for installation. So will leave the front low pressure as is for now and re-check once the front bumper installed.Rear pressure is a bit high, front is a bit low. If you don't plan on adding any weight, it might be worth a turn off the torsion bars. Rear would benefit from a pair of spacers or King if you plan to add weight (sorry if you already mentioned changing springs).
I wouldn't expect those minimal pressure deviations to cause a bumpy ride, though.
Is it bumpy at all speeds? Or just low speeds? If I recall, you've got old rear control arms. That's improved both my 100's, though more with my 99 at 275k than my 06 with 225k. Probably worth doing if you plan to keep the car a while.
I wonder about AHC shocks. I might take a gamble and buy new front shocks and see if I can detect any difference. There is some pressurized gas in them and there are internal seals.
For the ride quality, I really don't know how it should ride as I only got it at its 200K. I'd say high speed is ok, but the low speed bumpy is definitely noticeable, especially when it's re-bound from the bump. I'd expect the new globes may make any difference? If not, may think of shock. So far, the car is still pretty much stock, with all old suspension components. Saw some bushes are in bad shape, will also replace them.
My current plan is to keep the car for long term, and trying to slowly build as an overlander. So there is plan to add more weight. Already have the front bumper (120 lb) and skid plates (60 lb) in, and build a home-made roof rack (50 lb). Thinking of a winch (60 lb), and building a in trunk sleep platform with drawer (maybe 100 lb?). The last thing I'm also thinking is to add a tire carrier at the rear end, while a rear bumper is better but couldn't justify its high cost. With all those weights, I was thinking of a helper air spring. Is that a good approach? Can it be mixed with spring spacer? Or new spring make more sense?
With all those plans on hand, I do have the engine knocking noise to find the root cause. It's such a pain and happiness owning and caring the LX, and the more I know about it the more I found need to know about it... Luckily, we do have a great community to learn and to get help from...
Imo, air springs are for towing. If you're going to add permanent things like platform, drawers, tire carrier, etc... Just change out springs.
Spacers are fine, but probably not enough if you're adding weight.
I'd tackle bushings everywhere. It only takes one bad bushing to cause a harsh feeling.
Finally my orders got updated. Just paid the shipping and now count the days...
Just to show how much PayPal may over charge you by using their default currency conversion.
The total shipping including tax is 9140 JPY, and PayPal will charge you $90.74, while the normal exchange is $86.46.
By click the link highlighted, "Other Conversion Options", to change to directly bill JPY to my credit card, my Chase card only charges me $87.15.
However, you have to make sure your credit card doesn't charge foreign transaction fee which lots of card don't.
Just to show how much PayPal may over charge you by using their default currency conversion.
The total shipping including tax is 9140 JPY, and PayPal will charge you $90.74, while the normal exchange is $86.46.
By click the link highlighted, "Other Conversion Options", to change to directly bill JPY to my credit card, my Chase card only charges me $87.15.
However, you have to make sure your credit card doesn't charge foreign transaction fee which lots of card don't.
I think what we're seeing there is Paypal charging pretty typical foreign transaction fees. Most free credit cards charge foreign transaction fees and since Paypal is a free service that makes total sense. Their fee might be an extra 1% high, but no biggie.
It is good to be aware of foreign transaction fees, though. The cards I use now all have no foreign fees, but if you're not aware of that you can get an ugly surprise if you buy a long list of items from Partsouq or Impex and pay foreign transaction fees.
4 dollars this time. Last time was 20 dollars. May just a tiny amount this time, last time,.... last last last.... time. However, times it several times, it could become a huge amount.Four dollars.......
Damn that PayPal...!
To me, every cent counts, and I'd prefer to give that money to a local food bank who supports lots of starving families, or donate to those who protect the safety of our community...
Actually, Paypal is not a free service. At least they charge the seller the fees. and all kinds of fee if you don't pay attention when using their services.
Credit card merchants charge the exact same fees, within fractions of a percent.
As a retail seller, I pay the same fees whether buyer pays with credit card or PayPal. As the buyer you generally pay for foreign transaction fees as a part of your credit card's annual fees or by foregoing a common benefit given to cardholders (less cash back, higher interest, higher late fees, etc...).
The market is very competitive and the overall fees and rates are incredibly similar.
Has anyone noted manufacturing dates for recent globes they've received? Particularly the ones from Impex that are being shipped over from Japan? Curious what the current state of manufacturing these is...
I couldn’t find them on the ones I received.
Unable to help with a clear answer -- but may I please add to the question?
My most recent 'globes' were acquired in October 2018 from Megazip and are described with pictures in this thread:
AHC -- How to break the 'Globe Code'????
Just wondering whether any IH8MUD code-breakers could please explain the letters/number on these 'globes' (called Gas Chambers in FSM)? MUV 200 - 400 17Y150421 MUV 200 - 400 17Y230351
forum.ih8mud.com
At the time of removal, my OEM 'globes' still had their date sticker showing 2006-06-13 -- and this is consistent with the month of manufacture of my vehicle.
The replacement 'globes' did not arrive with a date sticker but do show the following markings engraved on the body, as depicted at the above link -- which I have never been able to decipher:
MUV 200 - 400
17Y150421
MUV 200 - 400
17Y230351
Can any IH8MUD 'code breakers' work this out?? If so, it also may help answer the question raised above in Post #234 by @LndXrsr.
Unable to help with a clear answer -- but may I please add to the question?
My most recent 'globes' were acquired in October 2018 from Megazip and are described with pictures in this thread:
AHC -- How to break the 'Globe Code'????
Just wondering whether any IH8MUD code-breakers could please explain the letters/number on these 'globes' (called Gas Chambers in FSM)? MUV 200 - 400 17Y150421 MUV 200 - 400 17Y230351
At the time of removal, my OEM 'globes' still had their date sticker showing 2006-06-13 -- and this is consistent with the month of manufacture of my vehicle.
The replacement 'globes' did not arrive with a date sticker but do show the following markings engraved on the body, as depicted at the above link -- which I have never been able to decipher:
MUV 200 - 400
17Y150421
MUV 200 - 400
17Y230351
Can any IH8MUD 'code breakers' work this out?? If so, it also may help answer the question raised above in Post #234 by @LndXrsr.
Did your old globes have similar engravings?
My guess is 17Y = 2017. 15/23 = week of year. Final 4 numbers serial number or batch/lot.
It wouldn't take many units to verify this. I'll take a look under my car next time I think of it,
Finally I replaced the 4 globes over the weekend with the one ordered from IMPEX Japan. With the info/tips/knowledge shared by the great people in this great community, like @PADDO , @suprarx7nut , @tjb , @IndroCruise and ..., the whole process went smoothly.
A couple of experience want to share:
BTW, I guess I have found my next LX with best ever price: $499 for a BRAND NEW LX570, right on the floor of the Lexus showroom!
A couple of experience want to share:
- For the 36mm Fan Clutch Wrench, I rented this set from O'Reilly. It worked pretty well even the opening is slightly larger than 36mm. I have to mention that the store staff told me they didn't have the tool for loan when I first went directly to the store for it. However, when I came back and ordered it only, it's available for pickup within 1 hour! One thing to keep in mind is that O'Reilly requires to return the loan tool within 48 hours for a refund.
- 3 of the globes could be easily removed with the fan clutch wrench, except for the front driver side one. It was because of the position, once fit the wrench onto the nut, didn't allow any movement to loose it. So the wood chisel I bought from Harbor Freight Tools worked nicely to remove this one.
- Per the FSM, Pg. 362, of 2005 LX470 "suspension and axle.pdf", the torque for the globe is minimum 18 ft-lbf. However, there is no way to use the torque wrench with the rental wrench. So just use it as reference.
- My local Lexus dealer gave me a good price of $17 per liter bottle for the suspension fluid. Not the best price in the valley but only 15 minutes away. The best local price is $14.8 from CamelBack Toyota which is 45 minutes away. Again, I always had better experience at Lexus dealer for overall better price/service.
- I originally thought of not replacing the fluid in the reservoir as it was replaced only thousands miles ago and looked in perfect pint color. However, the fluid drained from globes and accumulator looked like hot chocolate. So I did replaced with 3 Liters/bottles of fresh fluid.
- The globes shipped from IMPEX Japan didn't have any date code, but only engraved S/N. The original globes removed from my 04 LX didn't have engraved date code either, but a sticker with manufactured date.
BTW, I guess I have found my next LX with best ever price: $499 for a BRAND NEW LX570, right on the floor of the Lexus showroom!
I can't believe that the dealer wanted to charge me $1300 for just the labor to do this. I think it took maybe an hour to drain, replace globes, fill and bleed everything. What a difference in ride quality! I love the AHC.
