replacing AHC globes/accumulators (1 Viewer)

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This is a great write-up with many helpful tips. I am replacing my accumulators on my 2002 LX and have the rears off (via the fan clutch wrench). The fronts are harder and I’ve soaked them the penetrating oil. My question is can I use an induction coil heater on the threads? I use it often on stuck nuts and bolts but am unsure about the globe. It resembles a bomb so I want to be sure I can heat it up without concern…
Thoughts??

Thanks in advance!
 
following this tread, Bought lx470 with 250000 miles, ride was very bouncy, AHC goes L to N to H with no issues although the marks at reservoir only moved 4 to 5 marks. Went ahead and changed 4 accumulators with aftermarket (maybe bad idea), followed instructions depressurizing the system, changed globes, and then bleeding each corner, AHC still goes from L to H with no problem but I'm still only moving 4 marks at the reservoir, and the ride got worse very rough and stiff ,I did notice when going from L to H at the reservoir when the pump stops working there's a visible "burp" in there, is this normal? or could I be getting air through there?
 
following this tread, Bought lx470 with 250000 miles, ride was very bouncy, AHC goes L to N to H with no issues although the marks at reservoir only moved 4 to 5 marks. Went ahead and changed 4 accumulators with aftermarket (maybe bad idea), followed instructions depressurizing the system, changed globes, and then bleeding each corner, AHC still goes from L to H with no problem but I'm still only moving 4 marks at the reservoir, and the ride got worse very rough and stiff ,I did notice when going from L to H at the reservoir when the pump stops working there's a visible "burp" in there, is this normal? or could I be getting air through there?
Could be the aftermarket ones. I purchased the factory ones and I now have a 7-10 change. Try getting them direct from Impex Japan. IMPEX JAPAN — online new genuine spare parts shop - https://en.impex-jp.com/ Price was about $200 per globe including shipping.
 
following this tread, Bought lx470 with 250000 miles, ride was very bouncy, AHC goes L to N to H with no issues although the marks at reservoir only moved 4 to 5 marks. Went ahead and changed 4 accumulators with aftermarket (maybe bad idea), followed instructions depressurizing the system, changed globes, and then bleeding each corner, AHC still goes from L to H with no problem but I'm still only moving 4 marks at the reservoir, and the ride got worse very rough and stiff ,I did notice when going from L to H at the reservoir when the pump stops working there's a visible "burp" in there, is this normal? or could I be getting air through there?
That burp following when the pump stops is normal
 
following this tread, Bought lx470 with 250000 miles, ride was very bouncy, AHC goes L to N to H with no issues although the marks at reservoir only moved 4 to 5 marks. Went ahead and changed 4 accumulators with aftermarket (maybe bad idea), followed instructions depressurizing the system, changed globes, and then bleeding each corner, AHC still goes from L to H with no problem but I'm still only moving 4 marks at the reservoir, and the ride got worse very rough and stiff ,I did notice when going from L to H at the reservoir when the pump stops working there's a visible "burp" in there, is this normal? or could I be getting air through there?

It looks like you are finding your way around the AHC and TEMS systems? Many of us have been there, done that, learnt the hard way, and lived to tell the tale!! Here is some information which may help, and also some suggested causes of the current issues ...

About 'globes' -- OEM or after-market?

Personally, I am too conservative to use anything other than the tried and proven OEM Toyota/Lexus 'globes' (Part Number Front: 49141-60010; Part Number Rear: 49151-60010) from IMPEX of Japan -- IMPEX JAPAN — online new genuine spare parts shop - https://en.impex-jp.com/ -- or from PARTSOUQ of UAE -- https://partsouq.com/ -- because I understand the OEM product, and I (and many other IH8MUD Members) have had good experiencces with these suppliers, and I know that I can expect OEM Toyota/Lexus 'globes' to be good for ~10 years, and some say much longer. The 'globes' are described in the LC100 and LX470 Factory Service Manuals as 'Gas Chambers' but elsewhere often are called 'spheres' or 'accumulators'.

The following pics and notes highlight OEM Toyota/Lexus 'globe' internal details including the 'globe' nitrogen pressure (the 'fill pressure') when the 'globe' was manufactured (not to be confused with AHC Fluid hydraulic pressures within the AHC system when the vehicle is in use). The quoted 'globe' nitrogen pressures are shown in the LC100 and LX470 Factory Service Manuals (FSM) -- see attached extract. These numbers are taken on trust because there is no way to measure these nitrogen pressures directly. Note that, as with any accumulator of this type, the membrane is never completely impermeable and the attachment of the membrane to the accumulator wall is never completely perfect. Given enough time (many years), some nitrogen pressure will be lost, even during shelf storage, and more quickly when the 'globe' is in use on the vehicle and the membrane is subject to continuous flexing and wear-and-tear.

globe gas chamber LC100 LX470.webp


ahc-globe-internal-details-webp.3980148


Toyota/Lexus have been including these or similar 'globes' on progressive versions of LC100/LC200/LC300 and LX470/LX570/LX600 with Active Height Control (AHC) since 1998. The product specifications including dimensions, materials, fill presssures, and, reputation for reliability, longeivity and quality control are well-known, at leasr at a descriptive level.

It may be my obvious prejudice but I fear that aftermarket makers of alternative 'globes' provide very little (NIL?) technical information. Aftermarket products may be of lesser quality of manufacture and as a result may be less reliable and may be of shorter life.

That said, there is no reason not to try alternatives and other IH8MUD Members are doing so. A shorter life may be offset by lower cost and in that way give good value. Time and experience will tell.

For example, you may wish to follow @BullElk who certainly knows his way around the AHC and TEMS systems and has decided to try alternative 'globes' -- see his Post at this link:

So what is the "Graduation Test" (sometimes called the "HI/LO Test") all about?

The Test uses observation of the difference in 'graduations' of Fluid Level at the AHC Tank to measure the difference in AHC Fluid volume within the operating parts of the AHC system (shown by the stippling in the pic below) when the vehicle is at
  • the "LO" height setting (least fluid within the system, much fluid is sent back to the AHC Tank), compared with,
  • the "HI" height setting (much fluid within the system, least fluid in the AHC Tank.
AHC Steady State Settings.webp


As highlighted by @Jcreme, the Test must be done after both the Front AHC pressure and the Rear AHC pressure have been brought within the FSM specifications at "N" height, as set out in the attached FSM extract describing the Test. If this is not done, then spurious Test results will be caused by the different-to-FSM AHC pressures. The results then cannot be compared with the FSM values and the invalid test results are of no real use.

[Note: "N" height is the reference height for all AHC purposes, and from which the Suspension Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is programmed to set "LO" height and "HI" height when selected at the centre console switch].

If the "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" is done correctly over time (say annually) and in accord with the FSM-specifiied "standard conditions", then
  • the AHC Fluid displaced from the fluid-filled 'Shock Absobers' (basically hydraulic struts) will be the same every time,
  • the AHC Fluid displaced from the 'globes' will slowly decline over the years because the nitrogen will be lost slowly over the years and there will be progressively less nitrogen pressure to force AHC Fluid from the 'globes' back towards the AHC Tank
In this way, the correctly performed test gives an indication of the overall condition of the four 'globes' -- but it does not indicate the condition of any particular 'globe'.

Late Edit in italics: A properly conducted test showing ~14 graduations indicates 'globes' which are in 'as new' condition. A properly conducted test showing ~7 graduations indicates that change-out of the set of four 'globes' is necessary for good damping performance and 'ride quality'. The decline will be progressive over time rather than instantaneous. Not all 'globes' will reach end-of-life simulaneously but, like other components in a set (for example brake pads), when one does reach end-of-life, it is likely that others are not far behind.

Personally, I would always replace the 'globes' as set so that I know that all is good and I also would replace the AHC Pump sub-assembly 48901-60010 @ USD183.79 Partsouq at the same time as part of the same big 'bleed' of the system and at the 20th Birthday I would consider replacing the whole AHC Pump Assesmbly 48910-60012 @ USD1,352.57 Partsouq -- but all of that is just my conservatism. Others prefer to spread the work out over a few years and may choose to replace 'globes' in pairs and deal with the AHC Pump as and when and if required -- nothing wrong with that -- for example:
Props to PADDO's AHC fluid replacement method! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/props-to-paddos-ahc-fluid-replacement-method.925459/page-15#post-16048519

After suspect 'globes' have been removed, the so-called 'pencil test' can be used. This involves pushing on the 'button' on the membrane -- see pic above -- with a pencil or similar. If the membrane is soft and fluid is forced out of the 'globe', then it indicates that the membrane has ruptured, ALL nitrogen has been lost and fluid which has found its way into nitrogen space behind the membrane now emerges.

Apart from indicating when a 'globe' has completely ruptured and ALL nitrogen pressure is lost, the 'pencil test' is of no other use in determining 'globe' condition.

Consider for example a Front or Rear 'globe' which had nitrogen fill pressure of 2.26-2.84 Mpa (327-384 psi) at manufacture but has declined due to use and age to 1 Mpa (145 psi). Such a pressure will be way beyond the strength of most pencils - imagine pressing on a truck tyre at 145 psi (or even the ordinary inflation pressure of around 40 psi) -- there will be no discernible impression.

By way of illustation, in previous threads @suprarx7nut has related 'globe' nitrogen pressure to graduations in the "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" -- for example:


What is the cause of "AHC still goes from L to H with no problem but still only moving 4 marks at the reservoir, and the ride got worse, very rough and stiff"? -- as asked by @LEXMEX

Some possibilities and solutions may include:

1. Despite efforts to bleed, air remains in the AHC system.
This prevents effective damping and causes poor ride quality and also prevents the "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" working properly because test effort lost in compressing unwanted air still in the system.
Assessment: Highly likely -- one of the most commom AHC problems reported on this Forum after major component changes -- much more bleeding required.

2. Front and/or Rear AHC pressures are very high, exceeding FSM specifications. This also prevents effective damping and causes poor ride quality. The "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" also is prevented from working properly because AHC pressures overwhelm the Test and in particular the ability of the nitrogen pressure behind the membrane to push AHC Fluid back towards the AHC Tank is reduced,
Assessment: Highly likely if there is no history of checking AHC Pressures and/or if vehicle is heavily loaded -- requires Techstream or other scanner to check AHC pressures then carry out front torsion bar adjustments and consider preloading or upgrading Rear coil springs to achieve AHC pressures within FSM-specified ranges.
LC100-LX470 AHC Load Limits.webp


3. Some or all of the new aftermarket 'globes' have been supplied with insufficient nitrogen 'fill pressure'.

This could happen as nothing is known about the specification, quality and consistency of the aftermarket 'globes'.
Assessment: Possible but seems much less likely to have multiple 'globe' failures than Causes (1) and (2) above -- in any case, best deal with the more likely causes above before spending more money,

4. Faulty Height Control Sensors causing incorrect vertical movements and positions during "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" (and at other times).

Height Control Sensors are 'wear items' in the AHC system and investigaton is important when taking over a LX470 or LC100 with AHC/TEMS, as guided by FSM and multiple IH8MUD threads concerning Height Control Sensors issues;
Assessment: Possible but seems less likely than Causes (1) and (2) above. As a preliminary, with vehicle on a level surface at "N" height, it is worthwhile to check hub-to fender heights at all four wheels, expecting around 19.50 to 19.75 inches at Front and around 20.50 inches at Rear. Then check whether vehicle responds with close-to-expected height changes at "LO" and "HI" as shown in the FSM table below:

AHC Height Movements and Timings.webp

5. Partial flow impediments at strainers in the fluid path inside the AHC Pump sub-assembly or within the strainer or valve assembly inside the Return Valve next to the AHC Pump sub-assembly.
Diagnosis of these situations requires more information than currently provided concerning the subject vehicle.
Assessment: Possible but seems less likely than the earlier Causes given above.
 

Attachments

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It looks like you are finding your way around the AHC and TEMS systems? Many of us have been there, done that, learnt the hard way, and lived to tell the tale!! Here is some information which may help, and also some suggested causes of the current issues ...

About 'globes' -- OEM or after-market?

Personally, I am too conservative to use anything other than the tried and proven OEM Toyota/Lexus 'globes' (Part Number Front: 49141-60010; Part Number Rear: 49151-60010) from IMPEX of Japan -- IMPEX JAPAN — online new genuine spare parts shop - https://en.impex-jp.com/ -- or from PARTSOUQ of UAE -- https://partsouq.com/ -- because I understand the OEM product, and I (and many other IH8MUD Members) have had good experiencces with these suppliers, and I know that I can expect OEM Toyota/Lexus 'globes' to be good for ~10 years, and some say much longer. The 'globes' are described in the LC100 and LX470 Factory Service Manuals as 'Gas Chambers' but elsewhere often are called 'spheres' or 'accumulators'.

The following pics and notes highlight OEM Toyota/Lexus 'globe' internal details including the 'globe' nitrogen pressure (the 'fill pressure') when the 'globe' was manufactured (not to be confused with AHC Fluid hydraulic pressures within the AHC system when the vehicle is in use). The quoted 'globe' nitrogen pressures are shown in the LC100 and LX470 Factory Service Manuals (FSM) -- see attached extract. These numbers are taken on trust because there is no way to measure these nitrogen pressures directly. Note that, as with any accumulator of this type, the membrane is never completely impermeable and the attachment of the membrane to the accumulator wall is never completely perfect. Given enough time (many years), some nitrogen pressure will be lost, even during shelf storage, and more quickly when the 'globe' is in use on the vehicle and the membrane is subject to continuous flexing and wear-and-tear.

View attachment 3980333

ahc-globe-internal-details-webp.3980148


Toyota/Lexus have been including these or similar 'globes' on progressive versions of LC100/LC200/LC300 and LX470/LX570/LX600 with Active Height Control (AHC) since 1998. The product specifications including dimensions, materials, fill presssures, and, reputation for reliability, longeivity and quality control are well-known, at leasr at a descriptive level.

It may be my obvious prejudice but I fear that aftermarket makers of alternative 'globes' provide very little (NIL?) technical information. Aftermarket products may be of lesser quality of manufacture and as a result may be less reliable and may be of shorter life.

That said, there is no reason not to try alternatives and other IH8MUD Members are doing so. A shorter life may be offset by lower cost and in that way give good value. Time and experience will tell.

For example, you may wish to follow @BullElk who certainly knows his way around the AHC and TEMS systems and has decided to try alternative 'globes' -- see his Post at this link:

So what is the "Graduation Test" (sometimes called the "HI/LO Test") all about?

The Test uses observation of the difference in 'graduations' of Fluid Level at the AHC Tank to measure the difference in AHC Fluid volume within the operating parts of the AHC system (shown by the stippling in the pic below) when the vehicle is at
  • the "LO" height setting (least fluid within the system, much fluid is sent back to the AHC Tank), compared with,
  • the "HI" height setting (much fluid within the system, least fluid in the AHC Tank.
View attachment 3980334

As highlighted by @Jcreme, the Test must be done after both the Front AHC pressure and the Rear AHC pressure have been brought within the FSM specifications at "N" height, as set out in the attached FSM extract describing the Test. If this is not done, then spurious Test results will be caused by the different-to-FSM AHC pressures. The results then cannot be compared with the FSM values for the test and are of no real use.

[Note: "N" height is the reference height for all AHC purposes, and from which the Suspension Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is programmed to set "LO" height and "HI" height when selected at the centre console switch].

If the "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" is done correctly over time (say annually) and in accord with the FSM-specifiied "standard conditions", then
  • the AHC Fluid displaced from the fluid-filled 'Shock Absobers' (basically hydraulic struts) will be the same every time,
  • the AHC Fluid displaced from the 'globes' will slowly decline over the years because the nitrogen will be lost slowly over the years and there will be progressively less nitrogen pressure to force AHC Fluid from the 'globes' back towards the AHC Tank
In this way, the correctly performed test gives an indication of the overall condition of the four 'globes' -- but it does not indicate the condition of any particular 'globe'.

What is the cause of "AHC still goes from L to H with no problem but still only moving 4 marks at the reservoir, and the ride got worse, very rough and stiff"?

Some possibilities and solutions may include:

1. Despite efforts to bleed, air remains in the AHC system.
This prevents effective damping and causes poor ride quality and also prevents the "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" working properly because test effort lost in compressing unwanted air still in the system.
Assessment: Highly likely -- one of the most commom AHC problems reported on this Forum after major component changes -- much more bleeding required.

2. Front and/or Rear AHC pressures are very high, exceeding FSM specifications. This also prevents effective damping and causes poor ride quality. The "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" also is prevented from working properly because AHC pressures overwhelm the Test and in particular the ability of the nitrogen pressure behind the membrane to push AHC Fluid back towards the AHC Tank is reduced,
Assessment: Highly likely if there is no history of checking AHC Pressures and/or if vehicle is heavily loaded -- requires Techstream or other scanner to check AHC pressures then carry out front torsion bar adjustments and consider preloading or upgrading Rear coil springs to achieve AHC pressures within FSM-specified ranges.
View attachment 3980370

3. Some or all of the new aftermarket 'globes' have been supplied with insufficient nitrogen 'fill pressure'.

This could happen as nothing is known about the specification, quality and consistency of the aftermarket 'globes'.
Assessment: Possible but seems much less likely to have multiple 'globe' failures than Causes (1) and (2) above -- in any case, best deal with the more likely causes above before spending more money,

4. Faulty Height Control Sensors causing incorrect vertical movements and positions during "Graduation Test" a.k.a. "HI/LO Test" (and at other times).

Height Control Sensors are 'wear items' in the AHC system and investigaton is important when taking over a LX470 or LC100 with AHC/TEMS, as guided by FSM and multiple IH8MUD threads concerning Height Control Sensors issues;
Assessment: Possible but seems less likely than Causes (1) and (2) above. As a preliminary, with vehicle on a level surface at "N" height, it is worthwhile to check hub-to fender heights at all four wheels, expecting around 19.50 to 19.75 inches at Front and around 20.50 inches at Rear. Then check whether vehicle responds with close-to-expected height changes at "LO" and "HI" as shown in the FSM table below:

View attachment 3980345
5. Partial flow impediments at strainers in the fluid path inside the AHC Pump sub-assembly or within the strainer or valve assembly inside the Return Valve next to the AHC Pump sub-assembly.
Diagnosis of these situations requires more information than currently provided concerning the subject vehicle.
Assessment: Possible but seems less likely than the earlier Causes given above.
Another white-paper-worthy response from @IndroCruise, thank you for that. 🫡
 
following this tread, Bought lx470 with 250000 miles, ride was very bouncy, AHC goes L to N to H with no issues although the marks at reservoir only moved 4 to 5 marks. Went ahead and changed 4 accumulators with aftermarket (maybe bad idea), followed instructions depressurizing the system, changed globes, and then bleeding each corner, AHC still goes from L to H with no problem but I'm still only moving 4 marks at the reservoir, and the ride got worse very rough and stiff ,I did notice when going from L to H at the reservoir when the pump stops working there's a visible "burp" in there, is this normal? or could I be getting air through there?
This could be a bunch of things. Yes there could be air in system - when you replaced globes you introduced air into the system and it could take multiple flushes until you get all the air out - this will require you to buy another can of AHC fluid. Also was not a good idea to buy aftermarket globes, especially when you can buy OEM from impex for a great price. Additionally, the accumulators (I think that’s the name of the part that the gloves screw into) could be going bad. There’s a 16 step damper test you can look up which allows you to test if they’re working. Lastly, you could have an electrical issue that’s creating a faulty communication with the computer that calculates how stiff the ride should be. You would need Techstream in order to pull any codes that exist. It’s common for the electrical harnesses to fall off their brackets/clips and get exposed to exhaust heat which melts the wires.
 
at 530k km I suspect I might need to replace my globes but would like to confirm the symptoms and if there could be another issue. I adjusted the torsion bars and replaced the rear springs with the Kings units (easy to get here in Australia) pressures around 6mpa front and rear after flushing the system twice and adding genuine fluid. Its been driving like a dream but the last few weeks starting get rough again (I drive rough roads nearly every day. I put the scan tool on with 8.5 front and 7.4 rear accumulator sensor 10.6. A minor weep on one front shock absorber. Has anyone ordered from Impex recently as I tried to search with the genuine part numbers for the globes and nothing came up. Thanks in advance
Just tried to enter the numbers on Impex into two different search sections so requested a quote which then told me they were on the website....
 
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at 530k km I suspect I might need to replace my globes but would like to confirm the symptoms and if there could be another issue. I adjusted the torsion bars and replaced the rear springs with the Kings units (easy to get here in Australia) pressures around 6mpa front and rear after flushing the system twice and adding genuine fluid. Its been driving like a dream but the last few weeks starting get rough again (I drive rough roads nearly every day. I put the scan tool on with 8.5 front and 7.4 rear accumulator sensor 10.6. A minor weep on one front shock absorber. Has anyone ordered from Impex recently as I tried to search with the genuine part numbers for the globes and nothing came up. Thanks in advance
Just tried to enter the numbers on Impex into two different search sections so requested a quote which then told me they were on the website....
You have to log in to the Impex site, or a search won't show anything. It's odd but that's how it works.
 
at 530k km I suspect I might need to replace my globes but would like to confirm the symptoms and if there could be another issue. I adjusted the torsion bars and replaced the rear springs with the Kings units (easy to get here in Australia) pressures around 6mpa front and rear after flushing the system twice and adding genuine fluid. Its been driving like a dream but the last few weeks starting get rough again (I drive rough roads nearly every day. I put the scan tool on with 8.5 front and 7.4 rear accumulator sensor 10.6. A minor weep on one front shock absorber. Has anyone ordered from Impex recently as I tried to search with the genuine part numbers for the globes and nothing came up. Thanks in advance
Just tried to enter the numbers on Impex into two different search sections so requested a quote which then told me they were on the website....
Yes -- there are various possibilites for 'rough ride' but after 21 years and 530,000 kilometres (329,000 miles), 'globes' are high on the list of suspects if they are original on the vehicle from the factory in 2004 -- their 'use by' date is likely to be closer to ~10 years and about half the current kilometres -- but there are exceptions. So it seems worthwhile to order new 'globes' anyway -- unless there is evidence of a recent change-out of a set of 'globes' in the last few years.

However, correctly and repetitively measured "LO" to "N" AHC pressures suddenly deteriorating over the last few weeks from "around 6 MPa at Front and Rear" to 8.5 Mpa Front and 7.4 Mpa Rear suggests that something else is happening, assuming that the vehicle has not suddenly been very heaviliy loaded, and has not been left in "HI" height inadvertently.

High AHC pressures by themselves tell nothing about 'globe' condition and does not signify whether 'globes' are 'good' or 'bad' -- high AHC pressures merely indicate that the Suspension ECU considers that the AHC system is carrying an excessive share of the vehicle weight.

It is still worthwhile to run the "HI/LO Test" of overall 'globe' condition per Post #547 this thread -- and even though at the current high AHC pressures the result is likely to be spurious, it still tells you something.

Obviously it is worthwhile to use the scannner of choice to check whether any Diagnistic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are being reported -- and if so, clear them then see if they re-appear. [The purpose here is to find any of the several DTC's which may cause the ECU to place the AHC and TEMS systems in "fail safe function" which can cause abberant vehicle heights (and therefore abberant AHC pressures) and/or prohibit the AHC and TEMS functions -- which means no real-time auto self-levelling and no active damping -- which in turn means 'rough ride'. DTC's C1711, C1712, C1713 (height sensors) and C1762 (low pump pressure) are common culprits -- but there are others]. The fact that the vehicle can be be dropped to "LO" and then raised to "N" to measure AHC pressures does suggest that the AHC system basically is working.

Then suggest:
  • Check with a tape-measure actual hub-to-fender heights at all wheels, looking for ~500mm at Left Front and Right Front, and, ~520mm at Left Rear and Right Rear -- all at "N" height setting,
  • At the same time, use the scanner of choice to check that the readings from all three Height Control Sensors are close to zero (within +/- 5mm) -- at "N" height setting,
The purpose here is to check consistent behaviour of the vehicle and its physical tape-measured 'ride height' AND the behaviour of its Height Control Sensors. The Height Control Sensors are 'wear items'. Absence of DTC C1711, C1712, C1713 DOES NOT provide assurance that the Height Control Sensors are healthy -- it is easily possible, and not uncommon, for aged Height Control Sensors to send the wrong voltage signal to the Suspension ECU for the actual 'ride height' but for the voltage signal still to be within the voltage and timng range accepted by the ECU -- in which case the Sensor(s) is faulty but there will be no DTC. Testing of the Sensor circuits per FSM (and likely replacement of aged Sensors) is necessary.

As the vehicle is driven on rough roads on most days, damage to Height Control Sensor linkages and/or electrical onnectors/harnesses is a possibility which would cause strange vehicle responses. A starting point is visual inspection of the linkages and electrical connectors and harnesses at the Front and Rear Height Control Sensors.

AHC - Height Control Sensors - DTC.webp


AHC Front Height Control Sensors.webp


AHC Rear Height Control Sensor.webp
 
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As usual thanks for the very informative reply. No error codes at all for a full scan and the only one recently was the O2 sensors and replaced those and all good since. I do see all the changes in heights etc with my scan tool using the live function but will run a few more scans in the various positions and record the data. I hope to drive the old girl across the centre early next year when my daughter is back in Townsville with my small off road van and dont want to be sorting things at the last minute
Yes -- there are various possibilites for 'rough ride' but after 21 years and 530,000 kilometres (329,000 miles), 'globes' are high on the list of suspects if they are original on the vehicle from the factory in 2004 -- their 'use by' date is likely to be closer to ~10 years and about half the current kilometres -- but there are exceptions. So it seems worthwhile to order new 'globes' anyway -- unless there is evidence of a recent change-out of a set of 'globes' in the last few years.

However, correctly and repetitively measured "LO" to "N" AHC pressures suddenly deteriorating over the last few weeks from "around 6 MPa at Front and Rear" to 8.5 Mpa Front and 7.4 Mpa Rear suggests that something else is happening, assuming that the vehicle has not suddenly been very heaviliy loaded, and has not been left in "HI" height inadvertently .....

It is still worthwhile to run the "HI/LO Test" of overall 'globe' condition per Post #547 this thread -- and even though at the current high AHC pressures the result is likely to be spurious, it still tells you something.

Obviously it is worthwhile to use the scannner of choice to check whether any Diagnistic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are being reported -- and if so, clear them then see if they re-appear. [The purpose here is to find any of the several DTC's which may cause the ECU to place the AHC and TEMS systems in "fail safe function" which can cause abberant vehicle heights (and therefore abberant AHC pressures) and/or prohibit the AHC and TEMS functions -- which means no real-time auto self-levelling and no active damping -- which in turn means 'rough ride'. DTC's C1711, C1712, C1713 (height sensors) and C1762 (low pump pressure) are common culprits -- but there are others]. The fact that the vehicle can be be dropped to "LO" and then raised to "N" to measure AHC pressures does suggest that the AHC system basically is working.

Then suggest:
  • Check with a tape-measure actual hub-to-fender heights at all wheels, looking for ~500mm at Left Front and Right Front, and, ~520mm at Left Rear and Right Rear -- all at "N" height setting,
  • At the same time, use the scanner of choice to check that the readings from all three Height Control Sensors are close to zero (within +/- 5mm) -- at "N" height setting,
The purpose here is to check consistent behaviour of the vehicle and its physical tape-measured 'ride height' AND the behaviour of its Height Control Sensors. The Height Control Sensors are 'wear items'. Absence of DTC C1711, C1712, C1713 DOES NOT provide assurance that the Height Control Sensors are healthy -- it is easily possible, and not uncommon, for aged Height Control Sensors to send the wrong voltage signal to the Suspension ECU for the actual 'ride height' but for the voltage signal still to be within the voltage and timng range accepted by the ECU. Testing of the Sensor circuits per FSM (and likely replacement of aged Sensors) is necessary.

As the vehicle is driven on rough roads on most days, damage to Height Control Sensor linkages and/or electrical onnectors/harnesses is a possibility which would cause strange vehicle responses. A starting point is visual inspection of the linkages and electrical connectors and harnesses at the Front and Rear Height Control Sensors.

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View attachment 3998988

View attachment 3998989
 
You have to log in to the Impex site, or a search won't show anything. It's odd but that's how it works.
Hi mate yes that turned out to be the issue but strangely it also tells you they wont ship various items including shock absorbers, items under pressure etc which seems to fly in the face of what I have read. Maybe its lost in translation.
 

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