replacing AHC globes/accumulators (3 Viewers)

[pete100]

Hi All,
Just to share some new found knowledge...

After driving around with bone jarring suspension for a few months, I finally got round to fixing it yesterday. The sudden tailtale drop in AHC fluid reservoir level told me the globes had finally (after 320,000km) gone. So I ordered some more on ebay.co.uk (searched under seller 'kjs500'), he charges less for all four than Toyota want for a single one. They are actually tweaked 'Lizarte' unit.

Proceedure was simple:

1) drop vechicle to 'lo' suspension setting & switch of ignition.

2) release pressure with tube and 10mm spanner on all 4 actuators, and re-tighten. (vehicle drops slightly)

3) unscrew old globes with a ground down (7mm wide) 36mm open-end spanner.

4) lubricate O-rings on new units (with AHC fluid) and screw on, tension with strap-wrench around globe.

5) overfill (well over max) AHC reservoir. then start engine, and watch suspension re-adjust.

6) bleed the 4 actuators (as per step 2). whilst ensuring reservoir level does not drop below 'min', and starting engine to re-pressuring occasionally.

My only issue was having to remove a single running-board bracket on each side to create clearance to unscrew the front globes. And since the aftermarket globes are slightly longer I chose to grind the running-board brackets to give more room.

See attached photos for:

- tools used
- strap wrench in use to tighten new globe
- ground running-board bracket to create more room.

Total time used was around 4 hours. Probably an hour less next time. Ride is now hugely improved - I'd forgotten how 'magic carpet' like the LC100 was


/pete

 

[hkeller]

How's the ride compare to the old globes before they went flat on you? What was the total price? Will this fellow sell to the U.S? I am totally interested.

 

[yuji]

How's the ride compare to the old globes before they went flat on you? What was the total price? Will this fellow sell to the U.S? I am totally interested.

This thread has useful info on where to buy globes / rundown of various options (including the kjs500 ones ~$800 +~$90 shipping to US).

I just wish we had an easier way to tell whether the globes are bad. I pass the graduation test with flying colors (as do many others to varying degrees) and I still wonder.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/593232-sources-ahc-accumulator-globes.html

 

[RuffinIt]

I just did this this morning. Made a world of difference in the ride. I got my new globes from Cruiserparts.com for less than $400/ before tax.

I spent hours trying to figure out the best way to get them off without buying a specialty wrench or grind down a perfectly good one. With a little research I realized that a Ford fan clutch wrench is 36 mm also. I didn't have one of those, but I do live near a Pep Boys that rents them out for free. Went and rented their fan clutch wrench kit, brought it back, popped off the rear globes, and had it back to them in less than an hour. I highly recommend that route. Worked like a charm.

 

[Actualeyes]

On brand new globes what is the difference between L and H on the fluid reservoir?

 

[LockedNLoaded]

Thanks Pete this info will definitely help out when it's my turn to do this.

 

[hankinid]

On brand new globes what is the difference between L and H on the fluid reservoir?

'01 FSM says 7 graduations minimum.

Start in the LO position, mark fluid level.

Swith to HI, wait 30 seconds after the light stops flashing and mark fluid level.

hth

Steve

 

[Actualeyes]

'01 FSM says 7 graduations minimum.

Start in the LO position, mark fluid level.

Swith to HI, wait 30 seconds after the light stops flashing and mark fluid level.

hth

Steve

That was an answer to a different question...

I want to know how many graduations you have with a new set of globes... (I know 7 is the minimum spec)

I'm really trying to ascertain if the effectiveness of globes deteriorates (and this is perhaps indicated by fewer graduations) or whether globes simply fail (eg. Destructive event).

 

[dfrelich]

I just did this this morning. Made a world of difference in the ride. I got my new globes from Cruiserparts.com for less than $400/ before tax.

I spent hours trying to figure out the best way to get them off without buying a specialty wrench or grind down a perfectly good one. With a little research I realized that a Ford fan clutch wrench is 36 mm also. I didn't have one of those, but I do live near a Pep Boys that rents them out for free. Went and rented their fan clutch wrench kit, brought it back, popped off the rear globes, and had it back to them in less than an hour. I highly recommend that route. Worked like a charm.

Instead a trip over to the auto parts store (in my case a 15 miles round trip). Just hit the globes with penetrating oil. Then wipe down the globes with acetone to ensure no oil on the globes, and then use the strap wrench.

I was able to pop all 4 globes with that method.

 

[dfrelich]

Total time used was around 4 hours. Probably an hour less next time. Ride is now hugely improved - I'd forgotten how 'magic carpet' like the LC100 was

/pete

I concur. In the past, the ride felt squirrely when going higher speed in the crosswind. Today's very windy outside and I was felt much more secure driving the rig.

 

[uHu]

On brand new globes what is the difference between L and H on the fluid reservoir?

At least 14 with new globes.
(Standard conditions apply: Heights, weights and Neutral Pressure)

 

[Mark WV]

Pete, thanks for the write-up - simple and straightforward. along with the bleeding instructions from another thread, I changed out 4 globes on my 06 LC. (found the slightly used globes in the classified section along with the other AHC components which I will hang onto for future needs)

I just want to add for safety's sake that you need to Bleed down the pressure on all four actuators until nothing else comes out the bleed nipple. I failed to adequately bleed off the pressure and while unscrewing one of the rear globes, it shot loose with a bang and sprayed fluid 20 feet across the garage. good thing my hand was on the side of the globe, as it would have easily broken / crushed my hand when it popped off.

my front globes were completely shot with 183k miles - using the pencil test it went all the way inside the globe, and both were completely full of fluid. Rears were still holding pressure but changed all 4 while i was at it.

before changing the globes I had tried just bleeding the system, but there was so much Nitrogen foam it took 2 cans of fluid to flush it out. Even after 2 cans the two front nipples continued to produce foam at bleeding. After changing globes the foam is gone!

 

[JPS]

Pete, thanks for the write-up - simple and straightforward. along with the bleeding instructions from another thread, I changed out 4 globes on my 06 LC. (found the slightly used globes in the classified section along with the other AHC components which I will hang onto for future needs)

I just want to add for safety's sake that you need to Bleed down the pressure on all four actuators until nothing else comes out the bleed nipple. I failed to adequately bleed off the pressure and while unscrewing one of the rear globes, it shot loose with a bang and sprayed fluid 20 feet across the garage. good thing my hand was on the side of the globe, as it would have easily broken / crushed my hand when it popped off.

my front globes were completely shot with 183k miles - using the pencil test it went all the way inside the globe, and both were completely full of fluid. Rears were still holding pressure but changed all 4 while i was at it.

before changing the globes I had tried just bleeding the system, but there was so much Nitrogen foam it took 2 cans of fluid to flush it out. Even after 2 cans the two front nipples continued to produce foam at bleeding. After changing globes the foam is gone!

Mark,

Thanks for this post. I have bled the AHC fluid before, but never changed the globes. I was very careful when I bled the system to not allow the AHC fluid to get below the min. marker.

How exactly do you bleed it properly for a globe change? I am assuming u put the suspension in L, but does the fluid stop coming out at some point allowing you to remove the globe without bleeding the reserve completely dry? How do you know when all pressure is adequately bled off without draining the reservoir?

Thanks

 

[68W65D]

Tell me if the symptoms I am having are what you experienced before you swapped the globes and if it was improved after.

Lately, it feels like every little bump causes a jarring sensation in the vehicle. Big speed bumps are OK, but little cracks in the road are very pronounced. I don't know how much of this the globes vs the E-rated tires.

The vehicle goes up and down fine. The comfort switch works.

I get 7 marks on the test. I have bled and replaced the AHC fluid twice in the last 20k miles.

 

[geanes]

Tell me if the symptoms I am having are what you experienced before you swapped the globes and if it was improved after.

Lately, it feels like every little bump causes a jarring sensation in the vehicle. Big speed bumps are OK, but little cracks in the road are very pronounced. I don't know how much of this the globes vs the E-rated tires.

The vehicle goes up and down fine. The comfort switch works.

I get 7 marks on the test. I have bled and replaced the AHC fluid twice in the last 20k miles.

What are your neutral pressures? Sounds like the same symptoms I was experiencing. My pressures were out of spec. 6.7-6.9 for the front and 5.7-6.8 for the rear. I had to cross-level and crank my torsion bars and have now ordered 30mm spacers for my rear springs to get them back into spec. Important note, I had NO foam when I bled my globes. Fluid looked like coffee, but had absolutely no air bubbles. Hope this helps.

 

[68W65D]

What are your neutral pressures? Sounds like the same symptoms I was experiencing. My pressures were out of spec. 6.7-6.9 for the front and 5.7-6.8 for the rear. I had to cross-level and crank my torsion bars and have now ordered 30mm spacers for my rear springs to get them back into spec. Important note, I had NO foam when I bled my globes. Fluid looked like coffee, but had absolutely no air bubbles. Hope this helps.

Last I checked, they were all normal. Don't remember the values off the top of my head.

 

[PADDO]

Mark,

Thanks for this post. I have bled the AHC fluid before, but never changed the globes. I was very careful when I bled the system to not allow the AHC fluid to get below the min. marker.

How exactly do you bleed it properly for a globe change? I am assuming u put the suspension in L, but does the fluid stop coming out at some point allowing you to remove the globe without bleeding the reserve completely dry? How do you know when all pressure is adequately bled off without draining the reservoir?

Thanks

Here's something I’ve provided to others:

I've done the changeouts two ways: combined with a full bleed and fluid replacement and I've tried a "low fluid loss method". You could probably combine both methods too. Have you got your 36mm ford fan clutch wrench from auto zone and a spare can of fluid?
Method 1. Last globe changeout I did I dropped it to L, engine OFF, bleed all 5 bleeders down to the point where fluid stops flowing (total about 1 liter) so the truck is sitting on the bump stops and then sucked out the reservoir and dumped in a full can of fresh fluid as per my quick and easy 1 can method. So you've got truck on bumps, no pressure behind any globes and a full reservoir. Unscrew old and replace the new globes, you can try and put a bit of fresh fluid in the throats of each globe but it just spills out really, but do wet the O ring with fluid. There is some spec for globe tightness but I just tighten them up and give them a bit of a nudge. After all the fan clutch wrench is 13 or 14 in long so you've got plenty of leverage there. I guess I tighten them to maybe 40 ft lbs? So when you've done the four globes start her up and it will recharge everything and then raise her to N. The fluid level in the reservoir should be a bit above max. Turn her OFF and give each corner a quick bleed, just an ounce or three till there are no bubbles. Start her up again and confirm the fluid level is good, if the level is a bit over max is ok too and you're done.
The other low fluid loss way I've done it is:
Vehicle off, at N height and jacked up the front so both front wheels are off the ground. Crack a front bleeder to relieve pressure (both sides will depressurize as they are hydraulically connected) then spin off/spin on the new globe after wetting the o ring with fluid. Move over to the other side and repeat, crack the bleeder just to make sure there is no pressure but it'll be fine. Tighten the front up, drop her back on the ground and then do the back the same way, both wheels off the ground, relieve pressure and spin off/spin on the new. Keep approximate track of just how much fluid you've drained at each corner and add that much fresh back into the reservoir, plus a cup or two for bleeding each corner. You won't bleed that much out with the wheels off the ground and the shock actuators at full extension. On the ground start her up and give each corner a bleed till no bubbles. I try and keep track of how much I'm bleeding out so I don't run the risk off getting too low in the reservoir. A quick confirmation check bleed at the height accumulator is probably worth it too. Hope this helps.

 

[JPS]

Here's something I’ve provided to others:

I've done the changeouts two ways: combined with a full bleed and fluid replacement and I've tried a "low fluid loss method". You could probably combine both methods too. Have you got your 36mm ford fan clutch wrench from auto zone and a spare can of fluid?
Method 1. Last globe changeout I did I dropped it to L, engine OFF, bleed all 5 bleeders down to the point where fluid stops flowing (total about 1 liter) so the truck is sitting on the bump stops and then sucked out the reservoir and dumped in a full can of fresh fluid as per my quick and easy 1 can method. So you've got truck on bumps, no pressure behind any globes and a full reservoir. Unscrew old and replace the new globes, you can try and put a bit of fresh fluid in the throats of each globe but it just spills out really, but do wet the O ring with fluid. There is some spec for globe tightness but I just tighten them up and give them a bit of a nudge. After all the fan clutch wrench is 13 or 14 in long so you've got plenty of leverage there. I guess I tighten them to maybe 40 ft lbs? So when you've done the four globes start her up and it will recharge everything and then raise her to N. The fluid level in the reservoir should be a bit above max. Turn her OFF and give each corner a quick bleed, just an ounce or three till there are no bubbles. Start her up again and confirm the fluid level is good, if the level is a bit over max is ok too and you're done.
The other low fluid loss way I've done it is:
Vehicle off, at N height and jacked up the front so both front wheels are off the ground. Crack a front bleeder to relieve pressure (both sides will depressurize as they are hydraulically connected) then spin off/spin on the new globe after wetting the o ring with fluid. Move over to the other side and repeat, crack the bleeder just to make sure there is no pressure but it'll be fine. Tighten the front up, drop her back on the ground and then do the back the same way, both wheels off the ground, relieve pressure and spin off/spin on the new. Keep approximate track of just how much fluid you've drained at each corner and add that much fresh back into the reservoir, plus a cup or two for bleeding each corner. You won't bleed that much out with the wheels off the ground and the shock actuators at full extension. On the ground start her up and give each corner a bleed till no bubbles. I try and keep track of how much I'm bleeding out so I don't run the risk off getting too low in the reservoir. A quick confirmation check bleed at the height accumulator is probably worth it too. Hope this helps.

Thank You for the reply, I wasn't sure how much fluid loss there would be before all pressure is relieved, and how difficult it will be for the system to pressure back up if its allowed to get extremely low. I did a bleed months ago and the LX drove awesome for about a week. Now its way past time to get this taken care of. I plan to push a good amount of fluid through the system to make sure there are no contaminants.

 

[PADDO]

Thank You for the reply, I wasn't sure how much fluid loss there would be before all pressure is relieved, and how difficult it will be for the system to pressure back up if its allowed to get extremely low. I did a bleed months ago and the LX drove awesome for about a week. Now its way past time to get this taken care of. I plan to push a good amount of fluid through the system to make sure there are no contaminants.

If all four wheels are on the ground then you’ll bleed about 1 liter out of all five bleed points as the weight of the vehicle expels fluid and lowers down to the bump stops. If you jack up the front to change the damper accumulators, then the rear, you loose very little fluid, maybe 150-200mls. A normal healthy AHC system has no problems repressurising from zero - just ensure there’s sufficient fluid volume in the reservoir before starting the engine. If you haven’t yet do a quick search for my “1 can easy fluid change out” procedure. If you follow that you can’t get caught with insufficient fluid in the reservoir and the issues that then presents. Have a look at the thread “definitive list of maintenance items” (read from the most recent post back as it’s way too long now) and if you haven’t yet do the “L to H graduation test” .

 

[JPS]

If all four wheels are on the ground then you’ll bleed about 1 liter out of all five bleed points as the weight of the vehicle expels fluid and lowers down to the bump stops. If you jack up the front to change the damper accumulators, then the rear, you loose very little fluid, maybe 150-200mls. A normal healthy AHC system has no problems repressurising from zero - just ensure there’s sufficient fluid volume in the reservoir before starting the engine. If you haven’t yet do a quick search for my “1 can easy fluid change out” procedure. If you follow that you can’t get caught with insufficient fluid in the reservoir and the issues that then presents. Have a look at the thread “definitive list of maintenance items” (read from the most recent post back as it’s way too long now) and if you haven’t yet do the “L to H graduation test” .

Thanks Again. Yep, I did the L to H test and was a bit over, but tried a bleed anyway. Which worked for about a week. I have a suspicion the back accumulators are still good, or at least functional, but at 175k I’m changing them all. I’ll be doing some more research. Can’t wait to get back to the smooth ride again, for its flaws it is a fantastic system when it works.