replacing AHC globes/accumulators

[Dref]

This was the ticket. How this isn’t the standard recommended removal procedure is beyond me

So much info on Mud sometimes it gets lost and hard to find! But that removal tactic is mentioned on this thread starting at about post #36. Post #44 gives a more detailed description of the “technique”. Just FYI in case someone else out there in the future needs suggestions on stuck globes.

I was surprised mine came off by soaking with Seafoam Deep Creep for a few days and fan clutch wrench. They were corroded AF! Glad you got yours out.

 

[BigBen97]

Follow up on my ride quality, I checked pressures and I was at around 9 front. I did the cross level and that seemed to get me to around 7. This didn’t seem to make a huge difference either. I had to swap out my bank 2 sensor 2 O2 sensor and decided to check pressures again and I was at 7.4. Technically in spec but I landed on 6.7 after 3 cranks.

Ride definitely feels better. My rears are still out of spec and will be addressed once I’m not spending my time on lawn and landscaping projects.

Moral of the story is to dial in pressures before saying it didn’t help much like I did.

 

[leej]

I replaced my AHC globes this weekend on our 2004 LX with 200K miles. Globes were original with 2004 date code.

Question about bleeding: After new globes were installed and raised to N. I bled all 4 corners BUT as far as I could tell, I didn't see any bubbles when bleeding. On one globe, I got just a little air at first and then fluid (no bubbles). The other 3 globes seemed to be ONLY fluid. I assume there is some air in there from the new globes, but I didn't see any escaping... Is this normal, or maybe it came out at the very beginning of the bleed and I didn't notice???? I don't mind trying to bleed again, but I don't expect any different results (I pulled about 1/5 quart from each corner)??? Any thoughts???

Tips/comments from my AHC replacement experience:

I really struggled with removing the globes. I used pb blaster every couple of days about a week before removal, but not sure this helped much. I tried using a hammer and chisel, but this didn't seem to work either. What I found to work best for me using a make shift pry bar. Not very orthodox, but I put the closed end of a large crescent wrench on the end of the 36mm wrench on the globes (this is not a straight pry bar and this may be hard to visualize, but if you have done it you know what I'm talking about) essentially putting a pry bar on the end of the wrench (I think any other way of lengthening wrench handle would have worked). There are probably good reasons not to do this, but it worked great for me.​

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Before I started, I drove the truck onto some 2 inch blocks used for leveling an RV (10x10 squares that you put under each wheel). 2 inches doesn't sound like much, but this gave me a little more room underneath once it was dropped to the bump stops and I do think it made the job easier. If you do this, make sure you use the appropriate safety measures.​

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I ordered my globes from IMPEX Japan. Ordering process seemed a little sketchy, but overall VERY happy. I think everything cost me about $675.​

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I ordered fluid, and spare bleeder valves (pn 4918960010 about $2 each) and bleeder valve covers (pn 4917760010 about $1 each) from McGeorge. I didn't need the valves, but at $2 each I thought it would be good to have a few on hand in case one broke off. I did replace some of the rubber bleeder covers. Not sure that this was necessary, but since I was ordering the fluid, adding these only cost me a few more dollars and I thought it was better to have them on hand.​

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My original globes seemed somewhat healthy (I was getting about 8 or 9 gradients L to H), but due to the age and miles I have been planning on doing this for some time. After replacing my globes, I'm seeing 10+ gradients (hard to measure when the level is on the reservoir seam). I actually thought I would have gotten more (others have reported 14 gradients after replacing globes). Regardless, everything seems good now.​

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I DO think I can feel an improvement in the ride (the ride wasn't bad before, and its not huge difference, but I do think it has improved). At first I thought it was just me thinking it felt better, but even my wife commented that she thought was was smoother.​

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Overall, the job wasn't too bad. I spent most of the time trying to get the globes off. It would have gone faster if I had implemented the pry bar sooner...​

Let me know if anyone has feedback or advice on my lack of air during bleeding...

Lee

 

[Jcreme]

I ordered my globes from IMPEX Japan. Ordering process seemed a little sketchy, but overall VERY happy. I think everything cost me about $675.​

Lee

Was shipping time an issue from Japan with all the current logistics stuff going on?

 

[leej]

@Jcreme My parts were shipped back in September of 2021, and shipping time took about 10 days after the order was finalized with IMPEX. Keep in mind that ordering through IMPEX is a little strange and takes a few steps and additional time. I placed my original order on Sept 10 and paid for the parts, and then once they had the parts at their warehouse they sent me an updated shipping quote on Sept 16 (which I paid the additional shipping on that date), and then I received my parts about 10 days later.

Aside from the ordering process being a little strange, I would recommend IMPEX again (assuming they still have the best pricing). The parts were packaged well and all looked to be in new condition! Money well spent.

Hope that helps.

Lee

 

[PhillipB]

Since I’ve been reading through this, I might as well get your opinions. My ride has been pretty rough lately. Not bouncy, but rough. I’m definitely do for some bushing replacement throughout. My ahc functions and I have a sufficient amount of graduations(don’t remember an exact number, but over 7). However, going from low to high, I noticed the fluid in the reservoir was pretty foamy looking. I’ve replaced the fluid within the last couple years, if that long. But it seems like that could be a glove problem right? As far as I know, they’re the original globes from 2004.

I’m charging up my old laptop with tech stream right now so I can check my pressures. It’s been a bit since I’ve done that.

Edit: pressure readings- where I have to park isn’t totally flat/level, but for now my front pressure is 6.9 and rear is 6.6. Also apparently I forgot to plug the temp connector back in last time I did pressures, or someone unplugged it when I had some work done recently. I’m sure that’s good for the truck? Oops.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Since I’ve been reading through this, I might as well get your opinions. My ride has been pretty rough lately. Not bouncy, but rough. I’m definitely do for some bushing replacement throughout. My ahc functions and I have a sufficient amount of graduations(don’t remember an exact number, but over 7). However, going from low to high, I noticed the fluid in the reservoir was pretty foamy looking. I’ve replaced the fluid within the last couple years, if that long. But it seems like that could be a glove problem right? As far as I know, they’re the original globes from 2004.

I’m charging up my old laptop with tech stream right now so I can check my pressures. It’s been a bit since I’ve done that.

Edit: pressure readings- where I have to park isn’t totally flat/level, but for now my front pressure is 6.9 and rear is 6.6. Also apparently I forgot to plug the temp connector back in last time I did pressures, or someone unplugged it when I had some work done recently. I’m sure that’s good for the truck? Oops.

Sounds like a dead globe or height accumulator (which serves a totally different purpose, but is a similar mechanical component). The high pressure nitrogen escapes the rubber diaphragm and makes its way to the reservoir where it looks like foam.

If the globes are original from 2004 it's a safe bet that they're all dead/dying and overdue for replacement. New globes return about 14 gradations. 7 is the least allowable to function and if I recall correctly about 4-6 is a full set of totally flat (gasless) globes.

 

[PhillipB]

Sounds like a dead globe or height accumulator (which serves a totally different purpose, but is a similar mechanical component). The high pressure nitrogen escapes the rubber diaphragm and makes its way to the reservoir where it looks like foam.

If the globes are original from 2004 it's a safe bet that they're all dead/dying and overdue for replacement. New globes return about 14 gradations. 7 is the least allowable to function and if I recall correctly about 4-6 is a full set of totally flat (gasless) globes.

Thank you! After figuring out impex (that took a bit…) I just ordered new globes. I had been looking into deleting the ahc, but you’ve always been a big part of me deciding otherwise. Thanks for the help.

 

[acoleFJ80]

IMPEX Globes- Placed order on 10/28 arrived 11/22, paid US$134.29 per globe and shipping was about $106. Paid with Paypal. Fluid is back-ordered but found some at the Lexus dealer. THANKS, MUD!

 

[BigGreenLX]

After replacing my globes and fluid back this summer I encountered my front end dropping into low and the AHC off light blinking just last week. I looked under the fenders to find one the sensors had come loose at the elbow. I ordered both fronts and the rear. Figured if one went the others might as well. Like knowing whats all new and I plan on keeping this for awhile. All in on the complete assembles (2 in the front and 1 rear + replacement antenna) about $650.

 

[uHu]

IMPEX Globes- Placed order on 10/28 arrived 11/22,....THANKS, MUD!

1972 FJ40- GARY (Sons Project, 17 ) F/AA/SM420-
1973 FJ40- 283/TBI/SM420/4 inch/FJC Steelies /Discs/PS
1995 FZJ80 - 313K (RIP, 94 3x, 96 3x, 93 ARB locked, 97-3x 30th)
2003- LX470 (RIP, 03 100 212K, 05 LS430) 2010 GX460- 130K 2011 LX570- 110K

Sorry to lead you all astray, but this array of quality on the hands of acole must say something about his cognitive ability and cerebral power.
Well done.

 

[acoleFJ80]

IMPEX Globes- Placed order on 10/28 arrived 11/22, paid US$134.29 per globe and shipping was about $106. Paid with Paypal. Fluid is back-ordered but found some at the Lexus dealer. THANKS, MUD!

UPDATE- Sprayed all the globes and bleeders down 2 days prior, and it was about a 2-hour job. Buy a speed bleeder (less mess) and the fan clutch wrench. Our first AHC/LX470, rides better than the LX570 and the GX460. Followed the Jack up the front, and Change, Jack up Rear and Change. Replace the same amount removed, and bleed. The Fronts were shot...

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Can someone post a link the wrench they bought and used? I bought one and it was too thick.

 

[BullElk]

Can someone post a link the wrench they bought and used? I bought one and it was too thick.

Just a simple FYI...... a hammer and chisel is a very easy way to remove globes.

 

[Dref]

Can someone post a link the wrench they bought and used? I bought one and it was too thick.

ATPEAM 32mm & 36mm Fan Clutch Nut Wrench | Water Pump Fan Clutch Compatible for BMW Amazon product ASIN B092HY6GKG
This worked for me. A couple days of penetrant soaking and it was easier than I thought for a 2000 LX with 175K miles and slight corrosion.

 

[Dref]

I did have a chisel and hammer ready to go if needed though.

 

[BigGreenLX]

I did have a chisel and hammer ready to go if needed though.

I agree completely about the hammer and chisel. Removed the last one with em and wished I had done them all that way. Wasn't like we're keeping them.

 

[J Jamm]

I just flushed and replaced my AHC fluid. I also replaced all 4 globes with OEM from Impex. After replacing globes, I drained some more fluid from all 5 bleed points, and the fluid was clear red. I brought the height back to N, then I rechecked fluid from all 5 bleed points and still looked good. I went for a test drive going though the range of L, N, H, and the suspension felt great. The fluid was still above the max level at N, so I wanted to drain a little more to get it closer. When I did that the fluid from the accumulator was milky pink. I checked the fluid from the reservoir, and it was also milky pink.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I don't guess there is hope of it settling out. Am I looking at another total flush? I was surprised to see the fluid in the reservoir looking like that. Where could I have gone wrong? I made sure the fluid in the reservoir never got low. Seems like it was fine until I went for a drive and cycled thru the heights.

 

[flintknapper]

I just flushed and replaced my AHC fluid. I also replaced all 4 globes with OEM from Impex. After replacing globes, I drained some more fluid from all 5 bleed points, and the fluid was clear red. I brought the height back to N, then I rechecked fluid from all 5 bleed points and still looked good. I went for a test drive going though the range of L, N, H, and the suspension felt great. The fluid was still above the max level at N, so I wanted to drain a little more to get it closer. When I did that the fluid from the accumulator was milky pink. I checked the fluid from the reservoir, and it was also milky pink.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I don't guess there is hope of it settling out. Am I looking at another total flush? I was surprised to see the fluid in the reservoir looking like that. Where could I have gone wrong? I made sure the fluid in the reservoir never got low. Seems like it was fine until I went for a drive and cycled thru the heights.

Wait a bit and see if it settles. There are really only two possibilities:

1. Air (many tiny bubbles) is suspended in the fluid giving it a milky look (and making for poor performance).
2. Water/Moisture has emulsified the fluid (causing it to look milky and contaminating it as well).

 

[J Jamm]

AHC fluid seems to be harder and harder to come by now, so I went ahead and ordered a 2.5L can. It seems to be difficult to find at dealerships, so I ordered OEM off ebay. I am going to try another flush and refill, but I'm still not sure where things went wrong the first time. I did extensive reading before doing the initial flush and globe replacement, and I have gone back through the forums again. I did find some mention (maybe by @suprarx7nut) to closing the bleeders before the fluid completely stops flowing, maybe air can enter the system back through the bleeders? I definitely kept the bleeders open until nothing else came out. I also had to leave the car overnight before putting the new globes on.

BUT after the system recharged going from L to N with the new globes and plenty of new fluid, I was able to get new clear fluid at all 5 bleeders without air bubbles. It wasn't until after I went for a test drive and cycled through all height settings that the new fluid turned milky.

I am going to hook up techstream next to check all my pressures and heights before doing any more flushing.