Yes, these are the keys used by manly men (and of course womanly women). It turns out the buttons are superfluous.
Replacement Key? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter digitalmarker
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Yes, these are the keys used by manly men (and of course womanly women). It turns out the buttons are superfluous.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
You are correct, but you were making it sound like you were more concerned about having a SPARE key. This is an easy and cheap fix to that instead of getting the on with buttons and worrying about programming the fob portion separately (like you have to do in 98-02). There is also a "model checker" down in the description area that if you put in your vehicle info it will tell you if it works or not.
Correct. The 4C Chip is what is needed for the transponder for 98-02 If i remember correctly (think there is a slight variation in there). @suprarx7nut or @Mauser will be able to answer that question for sure or you could go digging in the MASTER KEY thread.
This is how I successfully replaced a lost key on my 2005 for $22:
After reading the FAQ and numerous threads that lead me down not quite the right path, I wanted to report back with what worked for my '05. Hopefully this saves you some time as I spent an awful lot of time with some trial and error. For successful full key with transponder and fob replacement, I ordered part #HYQ12BBT - 4D67 Chip for under $20 on ebay. This was after ordering the same part # with a "G" chip which is not compatible with my "Dot" or "D" 4D67 chip. Apparently there is also a "H" chip so you need to look at your existing key for a "G", "H", or a circle which is the dot key.
Next go to Ace or your locksmith and have the key cut for $2 (a buck a side). Ace was unable to program my key as their system registered errors, so I manually programmed both the fob and transponder.
Successful fob programming steps for door locks:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete.
Successful transponder programming:
After reading the FAQ and numerous threads that lead me down not quite the right path, I wanted to report back with what worked for my '05. Hopefully this saves you some time as I spent an awful lot of time with some trial and error. For successful full key with transponder and fob replacement, I ordered part #HYQ12BBT - 4D67 Chip for under $20 on ebay. This was after ordering the same part # with a "G" chip which is not compatible with my "Dot" or "D" 4D67 chip. Apparently there is also a "H" chip so you need to look at your existing key for a "G", "H", or a circle which is the dot key.
Next go to Ace or your locksmith and have the key cut for $2 (a buck a side). Ace was unable to program my key as their system registered errors, so I manually programmed both the fob and transponder.
Successful fob programming steps for door locks:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete.
Successful transponder programming:
- Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
- Insert your existing master key into the ignition. Do Not Turn!
- Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
- Within 20 seconds open and close the “driver side” door 6 times and remove key.
- Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
- Turn the ignition cylinder ON and leave on for two minutes.
- Turn ignition cylinder OFF and remove new key
- Open and close the “driver side” door 1 time.
- After 60 seconds new key is registered and Security light goes off.
- Depress and release brake pedal 1 time to terminate programming.
- Insert new key and observe security light goes out.
- Start you Land Cruiser to confirm operation.
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- Thread starter
- #24
Thank you - this is an awesome write up.
In my case, I have both of the original internal transponders so no need to re-program.
I think @gregnash is onto something here. I may have bought a 2003-2007 blank key, instead of a 1998-2002.
Either that, or I got a badly cut key.
I ordered a new blank that supports 98-02 specifically, and am going to get it re-cut. Not sure whether I will go back to the dealer, or use a lock smith so I can try it in the door/hatch cylinders right there in front of him to make sure it works.
Will report back with the results once that's done.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
I would go to a good locksmith before the dealership, or at least give them a call to see what the cost is for just cutting the key for you. Some dealerships will ask for proof of ownership to cut a key, so be prepared for that if you haven't been through it already.
- Thread starter
- #26
Challenge is, the dealer cut my last key that did not work, based on the VIN. That is the key that works in the ignition but not in doors/hatch.
So either the dealer did not do a good job cutting, or the blank key I gave them was bad.
I guess having the same dealer cut the new blank would answer the question about whether the cutting or the key template is bad.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Ah ok... yeah talk with @Mauser as he can help straighten you out and see which blank and chip is proper for you to use. It could have very easily been that the dealer did not cut proper or that the blank you purchased was not setup for all functions, or could have just been a bad blank. Mauser will definitely be able to get you sorted.
Note: The pedal dance that @thegoodword referenced above DID NOT work for my 98. I believe there is a post eluding to the fact that the pedal dance for programming the transponder does not work until 2000 or something like that. So if you have a 98, and possibly a 99, you will most likely need TechStream or a locksmith that has the capability to program. Mine had the capability to program but ended up having to pull a different book for his machine that had different codes to be able to get the system to recognize. If you have a laptop and can install the TIS Techstream virtual box that is provided in the HOW TO thread, go that way. This then gives you the ability to clear all keys and program only those you have present.
Two things:
I assume you have visually compared the key that works against the one that does not?
And B, do not spray WD40 in a lock - it can gum it up.
I spent several years in college at an Ace and I cut plenty of keys and keyed plenty of locks. There were often times that I would end up with a key that only worked in one of several locks or one lock that would inexplicably not work. The first thing I always tried was cutting a new key (of course Qwik Set key blanks are cheap).
I assume you have visually compared the key that works against the one that does not?
And B, do not spray WD40 in a lock - it can gum it up.
I spent several years in college at an Ace and I cut plenty of keys and keyed plenty of locks. There were often times that I would end up with a key that only worked in one of several locks or one lock that would inexplicably not work. The first thing I always tried was cutting a new key (of course Qwik Set key blanks are cheap).
Successful programming of new key to the doors on my ‘05 LC and so now I’m trying for the ignition. Got to step 4 and pull key out and security light does not continually stay on, still blinking. I’ve tried steps 1-4 many times and no success on keeping security light to continuously stay on. Is there something I’m missing something?
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- Thread starter
- #30
You were right - the first blank I got was for a 2003+. Getting a 98-02 specific key did the trick, the guy cut it in front of me and it works in the ignition AND all cylinders.
I had same issue.
Problem was sloppy key job. Go find an old locksmith who know how to cut a key.
I had to go through the process twice for it to take. I suspect that the whole pedal dance has to be done perfectly. There may also be a limit to the # of keys you can program.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Been stated in a couple different instance but max the system will take is 8 keys. Manual says 5 masters and 3 valet key designations, but when I went to wipe mine I had a total of 8 keys designated as masters.
Can you please confirm on these 2 steps when programming for the ignition, doesn’t make sense for me, that’s why it’s not working for me when programming my new key on the ignition:
2. Insert and then remove master key in the ignition cylinder 5 times, leaving it inserted on 5th time. How can you leave it inserted for the 5th time if you have to insert & remove the master key 5 times? Is that leaving it inserted after the 5th insert & remove?
3. Open and close driver's door 6 times, leaving it closed on 6th time. Kinda-like the question above, how do you leave door closed n 6th time if you have to open & close driver door 6 times? Is that leaving it closed after opening & closing after 6 times?
Greatly appreciate it!
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So my remote key is about to break down and I'm looking for a new shell to transfer all the internals and the key itself in. IS there a step by step procedure on how to DIY? Also, I read somewhere that a dealership has to give you a new chip or whatever so that you can use the whole key system without any issues?
Naturally, the YotaMD key is the solution here, but I might be biased.
Not sure what's going on with your new key, but if you invest in a YotaMD kit, you can re-use your old key blade (the one that worked) and forget about that new poorly cut ticking time bomb.
The YotaMD kit will give you the most sturdy feel and will never break in use. If you manage to run it over, hit it with an axe or hammer it'll probably still be fine (as dozens of folks on here can attest), but if you do manage to break it, I'll be here to replace what's needed (often on the house).
Let me know if you have any questions.
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YotaMD offers products and tutorials. Product offerings include Toyota and Lexus key repair kits, carbon fiber part replacements, and spare parts. Tutorials and information includes blown head gasket repair BHG, AHC suspension diagnostics, troubleshooting and maintenance as well as basic fluid...store.yotamd.com
View attachment 2209238
For DIY instructions, watch this:
You do not need a new chip, unless the electronics in yours are completely trashed (extremely unlikely). You just need to transfer your remote keys into a new shell. If you go with a YotaMD kit, you can also skip the key cutting step and just use your existing key blade.
Let me know if you have any questions!
- Thread starter
- #37
Forgot to mention - I took my cracked original key, and transferred the guts and the key into this shell:
Replacement Keyless Entry Remote... Amazon product ASIN B07T9ZYRHX
Feels a lot sturdier than the cracking original, and a plus is it has a Toyota logo on the back of the case. Pretty good solution If you can’t splurge for the titanium stuff. Maybe for my next key...
Focus not on the #, but on the last sentence. I left the key inserted on the 5 time, so essentially the process is insert and remove 4.5 times. The same is true with the door, leave it closed at the end. Whatever you do, don't try this with an uncut key. I just did and am paying the price for it with a stuck key.
I tried it again and still didn’t work.... so looks like you should insert and remove the key in the ignition 4 times, on the 5th leave it inserted.... I followed this and work the 1st time
Programming Procedure
- First, close all doors
- Insert master Toyota key in and out of ignition cylinder 4 times. On the 5th time leave the master key in the ignition cylinder
- Open and close driver’s side door 6 times
- Remove master key from ignition cylinder.
- Verify that security light on the information display is solid, indicating that the car successfully entered programming mode
- Insert new chip key
- Watch security light blinking for about 60 seconds
- When security light goes out, your new key is successfully programmed
- Remove new key from the ignition cylinder
- And finally, verify that your new key is able to deactivate anti-theft system: security indicator light on the information display should disappear when inserting properly programmed key into ignition cylinder
- If it didn’t work, repeat the same steps from the beginning
