Replacement Key? (1 Viewer)

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Hey all,

I read a bunch of different threads on here, and got a lot of conflicting information on the issue I am trying to solve.

My original key/key fob is about to expire (fob case is barely held together)

I bought one of these off Amazon, and had the key cut at the Toyota dealer:

Amazon product ASIN B07B2ZWYJ8
I transferred the guts from the original fob into the new case, and thought all is well.

Now the new key I have turns the ignition and starts the truck fine and unlocks it remotely, but the key won't work on any of the doors or the tail gate locks. When I turn it inside the lock cylinders, it inserts fine but feels like I am using a wrong key - it doesn't turn at all.

I read a bunch of threads on here that suggest everything from cutting the key yourself (lol!) to finding a certified key cutter at Ace hardware (also lol). Obviously the dealer didn't cut it (pun intended).

Thoughts on what's the best way to get this done the right way to make sure the key works in all cylinders and the ignition?

Thanks in advance!
 
I bought that same replacement shell, it cracked in less than a month. Transfer your original key and guts to a new shell.

Forum favorite

poor man's alternative

Either option is better than that other shell.


Thanks for that. Was aware of the YotaMD shells, never saw the other one. Don't love either option to be honest. Was hoping to preserve the original shape of the key or potentially find something like this with a Toyota logo on it:

Amazon product ASIN B07KCKN1LZ
The challenge is getting the new replacement key cut properly. Is there a way to ensure it's cut right? Or did I just get a bunk replacement blank key to start with?
 
Naturally, the YotaMD key is the solution here, but I might be biased. :)

Not sure what's going on with your new key, but if you invest in a YotaMD kit, you can re-use your old key blade (the one that worked) and forget about that new poorly cut ticking time bomb.

The YotaMD kit will give you the most sturdy feel and will never break in use. If you manage to run it over, hit it with an axe or hammer it'll probably still be fine (as dozens of folks on here can attest), but if you do manage to break it, I'll be here to replace what's needed (often on the house).

Let me know if you have any questions.


1581543228118.png
 
Naturally, the YotaMD key is the solution here, but I might be biased. :)

Not sure what's going on with your new key, but if you invest in a YotaMD kit, you can re-use your old key blade (the one that worked) and forget about that new poorly cut ticking time bomb.

The YotaMD kit will give you the most sturdy feel and will never break in use. If you manage to run it over, hit it with an axe or hammer it'll probably still be fine (as dozens of folks on here can attest), but if you do manage to break it, I'll be here to replace what's needed (often on the house).

Let me know if you have any questions.


View attachment 2209238

Definitely in consideration for one of the keys.

Challenge is right now I only have 1 key that opens the doors manually. Even if I wrap it in the YMD casing, if I lose it, the backup key I have doesn't open doors like the real original.

So my issue is where/how to get a duplicate key cut properly. The casing around it is secondary.
 
Definitely in consideration for one of the keys.

Challenge is right now I only have 1 key that opens the doors manually. Even if I wrap it in the YMD casing, if I lose it, the backup key I have doesn't open doors like the real original.

So my issue is where/how to get a duplicate key cut properly. The casing around it is secondary.

Sure, understandable. Dealer is normally the go-to for correct cutting.

Couple questions:

Did the dealer cut it based on your VIN?
Does it look any different than the original?
Does the new one work well in the ignition, but poorly in the doors?

Since you say you can't turn, I'm thinking it was just cut poorly (possible from a dealer, but pretty rare). maybe you can even see marks from the tumblers hitting the new key blade in certain areas?
 
I had a similar problem once, which was very perplexing. It turned out that the Amazon key blade was slightly different than the factory style. They looked the same but the Amazon blade had a groove in the side of the blade that was not supposed to be there, and it made a difference. I suppose I should have reported it to the Amazon vendor but didn't bother, just threw it away.
 
I had a similar problem once, which was very perplexing. It turned out that the Amazon key blade was slightly different than the factory style. They looked the same but the Amazon blade had a groove in the side of the blade that was not supposed to be there, and it made a difference. I suppose I should have reported it to the Amazon vendor but didn't bother, just threw it away.


Did you end up finding a suitable replacement that actually worked?
 
Sure, understandable. Dealer is normally the go-to for correct cutting.

Couple questions:

Did the dealer cut it based on your VIN?
Does it look any different than the original?
Does the new one work well in the ignition, but poorly in the doors?

Since you say you can't turn, I'm thinking it was just cut poorly (possible from a dealer, but pretty rare). maybe you can even see marks from the tumblers hitting the new key blade in certain areas?

Yes had it cut based on VIN at the dealer. I had just bought the truck and they gave me s*** that the registration was not in my name.

I don't see any marks when I try to open doors with the "new" key. It works fine in the ignition, no different that the original factory one, just doesn't open the doors or tail gate - doesn't turn left or right.
 
Did you end up finding a suitable replacement that actually worked?

No, I didn't really look. I stopped carrying remote FOBs. I am using some non-remote keys from Amazon that work just fine on the doors and ignition but sorry can't remember the name of the vendor.
 
Hmm, well that's annoying. I had some fresh cut keys for my 91 Supra that were like that. Ignition was fine, doors and hatch were a real struggle. They finally loosened up after some graphite lube.

I'd try to grab a little thing of graphite lub at Home Depot or Ace and see if you can get the lock cylinders a little more compliant. The new key might just a ridge that's off and jagged. Once it gets knocked down or wears down the cylinders, it'll free up.
 
Hmm, well that's annoying. I had some fresh cut keys for my 91 Supra that were like that. Ignition was fine, doors and hatch were a real struggle. They finally loosened up after some graphite lube.

I'd try to grab a little thing of graphite lub at Home Depot or Ace and see if you can get the lock cylinders a little more compliant. The new key might just a ridge that's off and jagged. Once it gets knocked down or wears down the cylinders, it'll free up.

What's weird is that ALL of the door/hatch cylinders are exhibiting this behavior. So I suspect the key itself is the problem, not the cylinders. After all, they all work fine with the original OEM key without a problem. So it sounds like I got a bad blank key... or a bunk cut.

BTW here is the key I bought off Amazon that doesn't work in the doors/cylinders. Going to try another brand/seller for my next one:

Amazon product ASIN B00KTHX1R8
 
What's weird is that ALL of the door/hatch cylinders are exhibiting this behavior. So I suspect the key itself is the problem, not the cylinders. After all, they all work fine with the original OEM key without a problem. So it sounds like I got a bad blank key... or a bunk cut.

BTW here is the key I bought off Amazon that doesn't work in the doors/cylinders. Going to try another brand/seller for my next one:

Amazon product ASIN B00KTHX1R8

Don't mean to come off as an annoying salesman, but FYI, I do sell key blanks as an option with my kits. Verified threaded and sourced from known good sellers of those key blanks.
 
If the key was cut off the VIN, it should work fine in all locks and the ignition... if they copied your "well used" key, it makes sense that it only works in the ignition. Since the tailgate and door locks rarely/never get used, and the ignition gets used all the time, the ignition is used to the wear and tear and is slightly less "accurate".
 
I'd find a reputable locksmith that has been in business for years. Those guys can make anything work. Have them cut it, and try it in all locks before leaving the parking lot. Mine charged me something like $12.
 
This is what I bought after confirming with @Mauser

Took it to a local locksmith and had them cut and program the transponder for me. I actually took them multiple keys and it was a flat rate of $65 for the 3 keys I took them. If you can avoid taking to the dealer you should, they will charge an absolute premium for the services.
 
This is what I bought after confirming with @Mauser

Took it to a local locksmith and had them cut and program the transponder for me. I actually took them multiple keys and it was a flat rate of $65 for the 3 keys I took them. If you can avoid taking to the dealer you should, they will charge an absolute premium for the services.

This key doesn’t have holes for the buttons?

Agree on the dealer comment though. They definitely overcharge, but I thought it would be worth the extra few bucks to get a properly working key. Alas, here I am!
 
So was it this specific key/transponder that you purchased? I ask because your profile says you've got a '98TLC and the listing for this key is for an '03-'07TLC.

I'd like to get a spare key/transponder for my '02LX but am having difficulties finding the right model.

This is what I bought after confirming with @Mauser

Took it to a local locksmith and had them cut and program the transponder for me. I actually took them multiple keys and it was a flat rate of $65 for the 3 keys I took them. If you can avoid taking to the dealer you should, they will charge an absolute premium for the services.
 

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