Replace water pump or not?

[Dansan]

My 95 LC has 124K, original rad, water pump. I'm going to replace the rad even though there is no evidence of problems, its 11 years old. According to Blackstone, I don't have any antifreeze in my oil and no apparent overheating issues. The water pump also appears to be ok.

Question - what its the logic, if any, to replacing the WP on the same premise as the rad?

Side question; The Blackstone test for my 1995 Acura Legend was positive for anti-freeze and I'm now in the middle of an HG replacement. The Legend calls for timing belt and water pump replacements at 90K. I presently have 27K on those items. Since everything is off for access to these parts, what's the logic, if any, to replacing them again?

Thanks.

 

[John E Davies]

The water pump is a peace of mind thing - usually when one fails it pukes coolant out the seal drain hole. I just replaced the one on my 96 LX450, and I was surprised to hear how loud the bearings were compared to the new one.

The pump is pretty cheap, and dead simple to swap. Change it, the thermostat and all the belts, along with the radiator. Then you won't wake up at 2:00 am wondering about those parts.

Use all OEM parts, please. Except for the radiator - I think aftermarket all-brass is fine. I hate plastic parts on a radiator!

As far as replacing the Acura water pump and timing belt after 27K miles, forgetaboutit! No way would I put new ones in "just because".

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[Dansan]

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to go with an OEM radiator basically because I've gotten 11 years out of the one I have (which is supposed to be inferior to the 3 row copper and brass).

I agree with you about the idea of all metal vs the plastic / metal but I also here about failures with all metal aftermarket.

 

[alia176]

Ditto what John stated. I'm currently kicking myself for not ordering the water pump along with various coolant hoses, belts, Tstat, fan clutch, etc.. I was in knee deep in there and could've easily replaced the water pump if I HAD it! Major stupid on my part. However, the weep hole was dry and the bearing was very smooth with no play.

 

[turbocruiser]

However, the weep hole was dry and the bearing was very smooth with no play.

If that was the case, then the water pump was fine, you made the correct choice; in general replace TLC water pumps when they leak or when they make noise but not before.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

My experience as well. When water pumps go, it's over several thousand miles. The first sign is wetness at the weep hole on the bottom side. They last a long long time-the one in my FJ40 was 29 years old with 180k miles when replaced, and even then it just was beginning to drip. I'm thinking with yearly fluid changes, the WP could go maybe 200k.

I like to do PM, but I think I'll wait until the WP tells me it's time. The radiator on the other hand will get done with the HG in the fall. If there was a source of GOOD aftermarket all metal radiators, I would use one, but all the ones I've seen are Chinese cheapos. No thanks.

 

[turbocruiser]

My experience as well. When water pumps go, it's over several thousand miles. The first sign is wetness at the weep hole on the bottom side. They last a long long time-the one in my FJ40 was 29 years old with 180k miles when replaced, and even then it just was beginning to drip. I'm thinking with yearly fluid changes, the WP could go maybe 200k.

I like to do PM, but I think I'll wait until the WP tells me it's time. The radiator on the other hand will get done with the HG in the fall. If there was a source of GOOD aftermarket all metal radiators, I would use one, but all the ones I've seen are Chinese cheapos. No thanks.

Just FYI, MAF, aka Ron Davis Racing, "makes" an all metal radiator for the 80.


http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa/aluminumradiatorfzj80.htm


HTH.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

not to be negative at all but you guys are crazy anal about maintenance on your trucks. water pumps, radiators and head gaskets all for preventative maintenance?

I'd just run the stuff until you start getting hot. Then go from there. I'm 12 yrs old at 165k and still running great on all the original stuff! It's a toyota for a reason guys, not a ford!

But hey, if you really want to do it, have at it!

 

[joker]

Just FYI, MAF, aka Ron Davis Racing, "makes" an all metal radiator for the 80.
HTH.

if thats the case, they should advertise that. they would probably sell more . i might have bought one.

 

[alia176]

not to be negative at all but you guys are crazy anal about maintenance on your trucks. water pumps, radiators and head gaskets all for preventative maintenance?

I'd just run the stuff until you start getting hot. Then go from there. I'm 12 yrs old at 165k and still running great on all the original stuff! It's a toyota for a reason guys, not a ford!

But hey, if you really want to do it, have at it!

Bryan,

You make a good point. However, keep in mind that your wheeling world may not be as expansive as someone like Andrew and the NorCal guys. These guys are going wheeling in UT where there is no cell coverage and if you're broke then you're toast. Going overboard with PMs are necessary for the kinds of travels that they do.

Speaking for myself, I don't really want to deal with broken radiator hoses or the like in Wendover, UT. I had enough of that BS with the Rover! I prefer to be proactive rather than reactive when it comes to certain things. On the other hand, I'll wait to do the head gasket when I see tell tale signs of leakage! That PHH hose was one such project that made me wonder why the hell am I in there since it was in such good shape That was a royal PITA yesterday!

Cheers,

Ali

 

[RavenTai]

I have not heard of many water pump failures on the 1FZ, that and it is relatively easy to get to so I would let it ride until it proves to be a problem, if you do have to remove it for other work and it has a lot of miles maybe consider it then.

I had my fan off to replace the fan clutch at about 110K water pump felt smooth and had no radial or axial play.

Just FYI, MAF, aka Ron Davis Racing, "makes" an all metal radiator for the 80.


http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa/aluminumradiatorfzj80.htm


HTH.

The only advantage aluminum has in a radiator over copper is weight, aluminum makes a better heat exchanger per pound, in a 5K+ suv I'll take a cheaper and better cooling copper radiator as the weight difference does not amount to much of anythign useful. Both manufacturers and racers like this weight savings, a good aluminum radiator can out cool a pooly desighned cheap copper one but on equal parts the copper makes a better heat exchanger per volume.

not sure of the exact build of that radiator, MAF gives little info but in general "racing" radiators have a tendency to be built for high air speeds and can be less than ideal at low air speeds, unlike a race car low air speeds is where a land cruiser might be found making a lot of engine heat.

I do have to admit that radiator is quite attractive looking though, the billet tanks are a plus over plasic OEM

 

[Grouseman]

Dansan,

Cdan has suggested that the 92' Radiator will fit in the later models. It is all brass I believe. I would contact him and ask before doing "ANYTHING".
He typically has some in stock too.


Gman

 

[cruiserdan]

93-94 actually. The 92 is a 3FE, that one is different.

 

[cruiserdan]

if thats the case, they should advertise that. they would probably sell more . i might have bought one.

at north of 600 bucks a copy?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

at north of 600 bucks a copy?

My thoughts exactly. The alu radiator is a beauty, and can probably cool an Abrams tank, but for $600 it's making OEM look cheap.