FJ80 3FE water pump bolt???!!

[kangjinsoo]

Hi everyone,

I feel a bit stupid asking this but I’m literally being beaten by a bolt on the water pump. How do I take this off? No clearance to get a crescent wrench, socket wrench, cat claw crescent wrench on the bolt to loosen it?
Please help!
Thanks y’all.

 

[Marco Lau]

Hi everyone,

I feel a bit stupid asking this but I’m literally being beaten by a bolt on the water pump. How do I take this off? No clearance to get a crescent wrench, socket wrench, cat claw crescent wrench on the bolt to loosen it?
Please help!
Thanks y’all.

View attachment 3868502

View attachment 3868503

View attachment 3868504

View attachment 3868505

that should be a stud and not a bolt from factory. Also that doesn't look like a Aisin or OEM WP....

 

[NeverFinis]

sacrifice a socket and grind it thinner.

 

[kangjinsoo]

that should be a stud and not a bolt from factory. Also that doesn't look like a Aisin or OEM WP....

That makes a lot of sense. I just don’t know how they got it on in the first place? Ready to take a torch to it!

 

[jonheld]

that should be a stud and not a bolt from factory. Also that doesn't look like a Aisin or OEM WP....

Correct. 3 studs, 1 bolt.
I also see a ton of blue FIPG holding that pump in place when it should only be a gasket (16124-61250). OEM pump comes with a gasket.

 

[kangjinsoo]

Ground down a socket and applied some heat to the bolt… presto!!! After some hammering and prying off she came!!!
Is it just me or is that a lot of silicone???! Lol

 

[kangjinsoo]

This is what I have to replace the water pump:

 

[Kernal]

You could/should take a brass wire wheel or at least a wire brush and clean off the surface rust and old RTV on the block, same for the stud/bolt threads (or better, replace the bolt and studs with new OEM parts as the original plating will be mostly gone by now). If there's any pitting of the block after wire brushing you could treat it with a rust stop product. Consider also a thread sealant on the stud/bolt threads, just keep in mind to not overtorque the fasteners.

FWIW it would be easier to clean up the block mating surface if the studs were removed first.

Looks like the blue RTV may have been added due to leaks (caused by the rusted mating surface)?? If so you may need to use a gasket sealant just where the block and gasket go together if the corrosion is significant once it's all cleaned up.

 

[kangjinsoo]

You could/should take a brass wire wheel or at least a wire brush and clean off the surface rust and old RTV on the block, same for the stud/bolt threads (or better, replace the bolt and studs with new OEM parts as the original plating will be mostly gone by now). If there's any pitting of the block after wire brushing you could treat it with a rust stop product. Consider also a thread sealant on the stud/bolt threads, just keep in mind to not overtorque the fasteners.

FWIW it would be easier to clean up the block mating surface if the studs were removed first.

Looks like the blue RTV may have been added due to leaks (caused by the rusted mating surface)?? If so you may need to use a gasket sealant just where the block and gasket go together if the corrosion is significant once it's all cleaned up.

Know of a good supplier or website to buy the new water pump studs, nuts, and bolt?
I used a razor blade to get the big stuff today. I will use a wire wheel tomorrow to get the rest of it and then I’ll be able to better assess the condition of the block and threads ect. Thanks for the tips!

 

[kangjinsoo]

Can anyone tell me from the water way picture above if the head is blown? Looks corroded…. Not sure what it’s supposed to look like. I’m assuming not that?

 

[Godwin]

This is what I have to replace the water pump:

View attachment 3868714

View attachment 3868715

Even though this is a new water pump I recommend pulling the backing plate and use a thin amount of sealant between the plate and pump body. I had a new Aisin 3F pump leak after installation and it was between the plate and water pump body.

 

[jonheld]

Can anyone tell me from the water way picture above if the head is blown? Looks corroded…. Not sure what it’s supposed to look like. I’m assuming not that?

I think mine looked worse than that.
Very rare to have a blown head gasket on the 3FE.

 

[kangjinsoo]

I think mine looked worse than that.
Very rare to have a blown head gasket on the 3FE.

Sorry! I know my previous question was convoluted. I was asking specifically about the crack/hole inside the water passage in the head. I know my verbiage was confusing implying about the gasket rather than the corrosion inside the front of the head itself.

 

[BILT4ME]

Sorry! I know my previous question was convoluted. I was asking specifically about the crack/hole inside the water passage in the head. I know my verbiage was confusing implying about the gasket rather than the corrosion inside the front of the head itself.

No, your head and head gasket is fine.
You are seeing casting flashing the may or may not have been removed during its original build.
You cannot see a head gasket from that view.
Corrosion happens inside a cast iron block when water based coolants are used.

It's fine.

When looking at sealants, use "The Right Stuff" by Permatex in black only (not gray). It comes in a Cheez-Wiz can and is expensive, but it's a FIPG , dries quickly, and dies not have cure time like the blue silicone stuff.
Reseal the back plate as mentioned and install the WP gasket DRY. (No caulk or anything else on it.)

 

[Kernal]

"Know of a good supplier or website to buy the new water pump studs, nuts, and bolt?"

If the studs and bolt are still available you could order them from your local Toyota dealer or from half a dozen online Toyota Dealerships that have internet stores.

IME one place to find part numbers, especially for small parts like nuts, bolts, studs, screws, is Partsouq dot com. Go to their website, type in your VIN
then search for that system ie: engine cooling or the associated part itself ie: water pump

If you have set of stud pullers/removers and an impact wrench it only takes a few seconds to remove the old studs however the stud threads will get damaged if you use a puller so maybe buy new hardware first??

Here's one nice Koken stud puller set:

1/2 Sq. Dr. Stud puller set 6mm-14mm 5 pieces

1/2” DRIVE, STUD BOLT PULLER, SET The body design was changed to hexagonal shape to minimize tolerances. This shape is also effective to lessen excessive load on cages and rollers inside the body. Input Drive Size: 1/2" Drive Shape: Square Type: Stud Puller Set Includes: Don't need the entire...

kokenusa.com

Koken also has some nice stud bolt setter "sockets"

Search Results

We are the North American Source of Ko-ken Tools from Japan. Our parent company, Ko-ken Tools, is a fourth generation family owned and operated business in Japan, with 140+ employees. The focus of the business is entirely on Sockets and Socket wrenches.

kokenusa.com

Another set FWIW

https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-201-Installer/dp/B00063UMZ4

FWIW that surface looks like it will clean up nice with a wire wheel, are you planning to rebuild the entire block or??

 

[jonheld]

Know of a good supplier or website to buy the new water pump studs, nuts, and bolt?

Here's another thread on this:

3FE Water Pump

Any FJ80 guys got any recomendations for what to use instead of the studs at that connect the water pump to the block. In my replacing of my water pump my studs have gotten messed up. I am to the point of putting everything back together but need bolts or replacement studs.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[kangjinsoo]

What’s the concensus? Still need RTV based on the pictures of the water pump surfaces? Or just gasket?

 

[jonheld]

Wow. Looks like you got pretty aggressive with a wire wheel. Likely a gasket alone would do the trick for the water pump. I typically put a VERY light coating of grease on gaskets to keep them in place.

The following is a PSA:
There is a small plug on the older 2F and 3F heads fitted from the factory between 4 and 5 called the oil galley plug. While you have untethered access to the entire engine, now would be the time to permanently prevent this from becoming an issue.
It is a rare occurrence, but it has happened. If that plug becomes loose for whatever reason and comes out, 8 quarts of oil will be pumped out of that hole. It will make a mess of things.
Personally, I have never lost sleep over it when I owned my 91 for 25 years or so, but I also never had the engine sitting on a stand with easy access.
Search "oil galley plug" and you will find several posts on fixes for the 2F and 3F.