Removing the leather shifter handle for replacement.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

nat88toy, thank you for checking.

That makes me feel better.
 
Those are some nicely manicured hands, do you use Palmolive?

Scotch Brite pad removes all (except Gorilla Glue) and Aveeno:flipoff2: And man-i-cure once a month only cause she hot and like my phalanges.

Shane, per our earlier discussions, I would definitely be up for a "grey" replacement shifter to match the rest of my AATLAS1X interior!

:cheers:

Steve

I remember, I debated on doing me, but just didn't do it....:princess:
 
Here is a newly wrapped shifter, this one is in my 100.
DSC_0160.webp
DSC_0161.webp
DSC_0162.webp
 
Hi Shane,

Installed mine today. It went well, but was actually more difficult for me than the steering wheel, due to having to remove the shift and center console, etc. The only "modification" I had to do with mine was to trim off the tips of the leather in the O/D button hole, as it would not fit otherwise (too much material). No worries with an Exacto. Took a bit of fooling around to get it back together, and all parts working right, but in the end it looks 1000% better.

:cheers:

Steve

P.S. my core will be in the post tomorrow.
 
Hi Shane,

Installed mine today. It went well, but was actually more difficult for me than the steering wheel, due to having to remove the shift and center console, etc. The only "modification" I had to do with mine was to trim off the tips of the leather in the O/D button hole, as it would not fit otherwise (too much material). No worries with an Exacto. Took a bit of fooling around to get it back together, and all parts working right, but in the end it looks 1000% better.

:cheers:

Steve

P.S. my core will be in the post tomorrow.

Thanks Steve,

Mine was super hard to get the OD button in there, but the factory one had the tabs as well, so i thought they we to keep pressure on the button to keep it secured.

glad you figured it out!

Shane
 
Getting to the blue connector AKA the real start of this procedure

AATLA1X procedure is very good, but it starts from having the shifter on the bench.
I will attempt to document the starting process which getting to the blue connector. This is on a LX450. I don't know how this will be different on LC.

1. Remove 4 PS seat bolts and move the chair back, don't disconnect any electricity.
2. Remove transfer case nobe
3. Remove transfer case console
4. Remove Center Console (there is procedure on how to do it on mud)
5. You now can see the blue connector
6. Cut tie wrap that holds the blue wire
7. Slide it back from its brass tab (circle in red in the picture)
8. Disconnect Blue connector and go to AATLA1X first post.

Rami
blue-connector.webp
blue-connector-2.webp
 
Last edited:
Here is the problem with the O/D switch.
the part circled in red needs to be trimmed. The switch will not fit with that much leather extended into the to the hole. I held the excess leather with needle nose pliers and cut it with a knife. Alas I did it when everything was installed and I had to be extra extra careful not to cut the white wires going into the switch.

It is easier before installing. cut the same all around. I cut one side at a time but until all four sides were cut, the switch did not fit right.


Please note!! you want the leather to extend into th hole 2 or 3mm. Look at the shifter you just took off and you will see how much in you want the leather.

When pushing the O/D switch in, it will be secured and somewhat recessed just like the factory.

Don't forget to slip a ziplock bag on it so when you reassembled the consoles and need to move the new shifter around, you won't get it all dirty.
shift-nobe.webp
 
Last edited:
Did anyone have problems with the override not working after the install? I had to cut my wires to get the shifter off. I re-soldered and while the O/D light comes on, the overdrive does not engage. Any ideas?
 
Did anyone have problems with the override not working after the install? I had to cut my wires to get the shifter off. I re-soldered and while the O/D light comes on, the overdrive does not engage. Any ideas?

I just replaced mine yesterday with a new OEM handle. And yes, my OD button no longer works. I did take apart the plastic housing before I found this thread. There were a couple of small metal clips inside that I could not figure out how they went back. I ended up pulling one of the pins to keep the OD enabled. I will find a OD button at a junk yard and replace it when I get a chance.
 
If the OD light is on, at least on the 94, that means OD is off.
 
GREAT write up! I have searched for a week or so now looking for instructional videos but found nothing. Your write up helped me disassemble the replacement parts I got from the junk yard. I plan on recording the removal, replacement of the knob and indicator plate in my J100 and then sharing it... if I'm successful and manage without too much profanity!
 
are the core swaps still a possibility?
is there a kit of the leather for sale?
 
GREAT write up! I have searched for a week or so now looking for instructional videos but found nothing. Your write up helped me disassemble the replacement parts I got from the junk yard. I plan on recording the removal, replacement of the knob and indicator plate in my J100 and then sharing it... if I'm successful and manage without too much profanity!

Hi Marty,

Did you get a chance to record the process on video?

I just bought a replacement from Land Cruiser Heaven in Hagerstown MD for my 1999 LX aka 100 and don’t want to screw up the process!

It’s more complicated than I was hoping for.

(I will have a core replacement after reinstall is complete to possibly donate to someone who will pay for shipping.)
 
When getting a replacement off a parts rig can one just remove the two screws holding the shifter and pull it off and cut the wires?

If you don’t need the OD switch, this is how Pablo at Land Cruiser Heaven did it for me with with his parts 100. Just two screws and snipped the O/D blue wires. It took 5 minutes.
 
If you don’t need the OD switch, this is how Pablo at Land Cruiser Heaven did it for me with with his parts 100. Just two screws and snipped the O/D blue wires. It took 5 minutes.

Thanks for the feedback. My thought was I could just re-solder the wires rather than going through all the disassembly needed to disconnect/reconnect the OD wires.
 
Thank you for such a clear and thoroughly well documented post. Successfully completed and was short work thanks to you.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom