Removing Forward Leaf Spring "Bolts" 1981 4X4 (1 Viewer)

[t6dpilot]

Bouncing away from my 1981 New Owner thread, I thought I would ask here. I am replacing all my bushings (or attempting to anyway) and am able to get the rear double shackle ones done easily. Those front ones are probably original to the truck and WILL NOT budge. Best method on all the others was using a clamp. That worked great for them, but the front attach points of all four leaf springs seem to be welded solid. These are the "bolts" that have the outer flange with two little bolts that hold it in place. My guess is that the original bushing has a steel sleeve and the bolt is rusted to the sleeve. None of them will move at all and I can't get a BFH on them.

What have you guys who have fought these successfully done to remove them? I am guessing cut the spring out with a sawzall and replace the flanged bolt with a regular bolt. That flanged bolt is NLA. I have decided to not do those bushings yet until I find a better solution than destroying an original NLA part. Any ideas?

 

[aztoyman]

If it's siezed THAT bad, isn't it destroyed anyway? Without room to swing a hammer or use an air hammer with the oil pan in the way I would probably cut between the mounting "ears" and the side of the spring on each side with a Sawzall. That way all that is damaged is the bolt that's most likely no good anyway. Just what I would do. Maybe other's will have another option.

 

[ferg]

There should be flats on the raised bolt 'head'. Use the correct sized open end wrench and twist/rotate the bolt, both directions. Liberal application of penetrant and careful use of a pry bar. It will come out. Don't forget to remove the nut on the backside.

@aztoyman that's the rear passenger side spring with the gas tank behind it.

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks, I thought it looked like a gas tank but I thought he said front springs. Good to know about the flats to turn the flange too.

 

[t6dpilot]

Thanks guys. The bolt may be junk, but in case it’s not I’d still like to keep the factory hardware. I did not think of the flats on the flange side. I’ll check it out and retry at some point. Great info!

 

[ferg]

Some of those bolts have threaded holes to use for removal. If so, use a 6mm(10mm head) bolt and thread it in, it will act like a puller.

 

[t6dpilot]

Hmmm thats a good idea. They seem too small to break that free though. I did try using two nuts on the other end to get the bolt to break free. No go and I did not want to strip the threads torquing too hard.

I’ll probably have to cut them to get the job accomplished.

 

[Mudder]

Is this not what you need to replace it with factory hardware? I remember cutting mine out instead of dropping the gas tank.

leaf spring pin, bushing and hardware kit (genuine toyota parts — 22RE Performance

not hammered like yours are

22reperformance.com

 

[pappy]

The front bolt on the rear springs has a metal sleeve. That sleeve rusts to the bolt and keeps the bolt from coming out. You will need to cut the bolts on both sides to remove the spring.

Solution. Drill out the spring mount to 18mm, and install an 18mm bolt. Make sure it isn't too long and spear your tank.

 

[gnob]

those early pins don't have sleeves.

dobinson makes new as well.

 

[pappy]

those early pins don't have sleeves.

dobinson makes new as well.

As I recall my 1982 did. But it was 40 years ago when I installed the springs ... so, well, I could be wrong. I know my 1985 absolutely did.

 

[fjc-man]

So get a two pack of Diablo brand carbide tipped Sawzall blades and cut those suckers off.

 

[Beams37]

If you decide to cut them, I'd look into the IronMan 4x4 replacements. They're Greasable and super beefy.

 

[Birk]

We just replaced rear springs on a taco, used a 4" angle grinder with a cutting wheel, made quick work of it. Had to cut the pins and u-bolts!!! Pry the frame away from the spring to provide room on the inside for the cutting wheel.