removing drive shaft to run on RWD

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 31, 2019
Threads
2
Messages
6
Location
oregon
hey everyone, I have been driving my 1999 lexus lx470 and dont need the 4x4, looked at several options to convert to 4wd but they're pretty costy except for removing the drive shaft. Just wanted to see if by removing the driveshaft ill bust the transfer case or rise other problems.

Thanks
 
What are you hoping to accomplish? You'll still be getting the drag of the driveline components downstream from the removed driveshaft. I really don't see any benefit to doing this. If milage is a concern you got the wrong vehicle.
 
Part time the 100. @cruiseroutfit has got you covered with a kit to make this happen. You may as well throw some of his T-case gears in there at the same time if you want/need low range crawl or better high range highway gearing if your running larger than stock tires.
 
It's possible, though I don't think I'd do it for long periods. I took my front shaft out to have the joints replaced and have it balanced. I drove the LX to the shop to drop off and pick up. CDL locked, everything was fine.

FWIW, I did notice about 1mpg benefit, though that's not enough not to be easily discounted.
 
Its possible, but I wouldn't do it for long periods of time. As several of the other guys have mentioned, if you want better MPG's, you got the wrong vehicle. Its purpose built.
 
What is the technical reason for not doing it for a long periods?

Nothing specific for me; it's fine to drive without it. I do consider that the truck was designed to be driven in all-time AWD, so other aspects of the mechanicals were designed and built with that in mind. I did notice the change in dynamics on sweeping highway cloverleafs. It feels better with the AWD.

The question is, why would you? There's a negligible effect on fuel consumption and only a decrease in capability.
 
The front diff and cv axles would still be spinning, so there is no benefit + you’d have to see the CDL light all day.

The only meaningful way to do it is with the part time kit really, where you can unlock the hubs and the front output on the TC.
 
What is the technical reason for not doing it for a long periods?

I'm not referring to any technical issues around it. I had an FJ80 that I damaged the front d/s on and had the transfer-case diff. locked and drove it around until it was repaired. Before I knew it, I had my DS back and I drove it around for another 3 or 4 mos because I was too lazy to put it in.

In general, unless you do a part time conversion, there won't be much benefit to having the DS out. just my 2 cents. I haven't run a 100 series without the front DS, if I had to I wouldn't do it for long. That's why I'm saving my pennies for the part time conversion. Then I won't have the internal dialogue about any of this stuff and my 4WD will be available right when I need it. No crawling underneath to re-install the DS.
 
Last edited:
The question is, why would you? There's a negligible effect on fuel consumption and only a decrease in capability.

Wear reduction in axle parts (end to end), flanges and CV boots are good enough reasons for me to pull the front drive shaft. No need to grease front drive shaft every oil change after that.
 
Wear reduction in axle parts (end to end), flanges and CV boots are good enough reasons for me to pull the front drive shaft. No need to grease front drive shaft every oil change after that.

Pulling the front drive shaft will just change the direction those components are driven, not eliminate the wear entirely. If you are concerned about wear and milage, the part time kit is the way to go.
 
As a minimum you would have to unlock the hubs as well after taking off the shaft to make any sense. If the hub remains locked, the cv’s and diff is rotating the same and wears 95% the same like if the propshaft was not removed. That said, a proper part time kit probably costs more than two cv’s and a front diff rebuild:D So the costs won’t turn around in like 15 years.
 
I don't see that it would hurt anything to do it.
You might have to find covers for the openings.
 
Wear reduction in axle parts (end to end), flanges and CV boots are good enough reasons for me to pull the front drive shaft. No need to grease front drive shaft every oil change after that.

Seems that I am missing something. How are you going to reduce the wear? These parts will still be spinning even with the driveshaft removed from the transfer case to the diff. If you remove the front drive shaft (CV) then how are you planning to keep your wheel bearings from getting debris in them? As was mentioned before, I guess that you could machine the teeth off of the hub flange, but it seems like a bit of a waste. What would the wear of the front drive components matter if you cannot use them without a fairly large process of reinstalling/changing quite a few parts?

The debris issue and reduced wear is why everyone is recommending the part time kit from Cruiser Outfitters. This would be the only way I am aware of to disengage the front drive components without causing the issue of having a gaping hole at the wheel bearings. The Cruiser Outfitters kit seems expensive until you price factory front drive shafts (CV) and associated parts. Then it actually becomes much more reasonable.
 
Last edited:
As a minimum you would have to unlock the hubs as well after taking off the shaft to make any sense. If the hub remains locked, the cv’s and diff is rotating the same and wears 95% the same like if the propshaft was not removed. That said, a proper part time kit probably costs more than two cv’s and a front diff rebuild:D So the costs won’t turn around in like 15 years.

I don't believe the wear is 95% of before the drive shaft is removed.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom