Remflex gasket and copper coat? (1 Viewer)

[emac]

I have an exhaust leak at the manifold. I have been reading various threads and I am seeing two repeating themes. One, Copper coat (liquid not spray) on all surfaces and really tighten nuts. Two, use the Remflex gasket.

So, I thought about using both together. I have tried a couple of different gaskets and got the leak down about 90%. It is a used 6-1 header and 2f engine. Surfaced the flanges. Since I am waiting on my body work, I have time to work some more on it.

I decided to order all new mounting hardware and Remflex gasket . Any advice on using Copper Coat with the remflex? I like the design of the Remflex, it looks like it will work better than what I had.

My last two tries were using gaskets dry. Felpro and some other brand. Even tried two gaskets.

Any thoughts?

 

[3_puppies]

is the header flange the same thickness as the intake flange? you can make some step washers to make up the difference.

 

[shipmag]

When i put intakes and headers or stock exhaust on i have a machine shop mill both surfaces to the same thickness. I havent been able to eliminate leaks using any other methods personally. Im sure there are real cruiserheads on here that may have a better way. I use stock exhaust manifold and the stock rocker washer to bolt them down. So far it has worked for me.

 

[emac]

They are the same thickness.

I wish I had the stock exhaust manifold! I am working with what came on the rig. Personally, I outgrew headers a long time ago. I am going to give them my best try and if they leak, then I am scrapping the headers.

From what I have read Mark's (Marks off road ) are the best that are now available, but it doesn't seem like he is going to be making any anytime soon. I am not going to waste any money on a cheapo set. Hopefully I can get these to seal and be done.

 

[spotcruiser]

Just Remflex. I've yet to have one fail to seal properly.

 

[JungleBiker]

I used to have huge problems with exhaust leaks until I salvaged a piece of flexible tubing out of some newer vehicle and welded it into my exhaust pipe just down stream of the manifold. Problem solved.

 

[Pin_Head]

Just Remflex. I've yet to have one fail to seal properly.

This.

Remflex are very forgiving about fit up and they don't need any sealant.

 

[emac]

Thanks guys, I will try the Remflex without sealant. Did you just follow Remflex recommended torques?

When I examined the failed gaskets, I could see that the metal flange on the exhaust port part of the gasket, did not have very much contact with the header flange. Very little overlap. I probably could have lined it up better. But it doesnt give you much wiggle room. Hopefully the Remflex will fit better.

 

[Pin_Head]

I found that the Remflex did not maintain the torque values they recommended and after retorquing them 3 times, I tightened them to Toyota OEM values. I had a CA specific "thermonuclear" manifold which is heavy and prone to vibration. YMMV.

 

[emac]

Thanks PinHead.

 

[Downey]

(1) Header flatness/thickness- - -If you put a straight edge on any Header flange it would not be dead flat, that is because of the way Headers are made/welded, and the longer the flange (i.e. Landcruiser 6 cylinder), the worse the problem. BUT, when installing a Landcruiser 6 cylinder Header, you can usually watch the flange pull up tight flat against the head while tightening the mounting nuts with finger pressure only, it takes very little pressure to flatten the Header flange. That is why I never recommended the cost of resurfacing.

(2) Copper Coating all 4 surfaces- - -The reason we always recommended "paint-on" copper coat is because it is a lacquer based adhesive, when it gets hot it does not melt and run out like water, it in fact bakes-on. This means the quality of the gasket you use is not as important. It also means mounting nuts could actually loosen and an exhaust leak may not result.

(3) Tightening- - -The reason we always said "tighten until you think your wrench is going to break, then two more turns" is because over-tightening will pull in a warped flange, and it will actually bend/wrinkle the mounting washers so that they are totally biting into the two non-matching surfaces of the Header and Intake Manifold.

 

[emac]

Jim,
thank you for the post. I have read this post in many other threads. I was planning on using your technique, then I came across the Remflex idea. Would you use Copper Coating on the remflex? Or Forget the Remflex and use a decent gasket your way?

I think I already know your answer!

 

[Pin_Head]

My Remflex outlasted my OEM gaskets, but I had that strange heavy thermonuclear manifold.

 

[brooklyn]

Great info, I installed a Remflex a while back, but haven't started the truck do to other projects and used Remflex torque specs...what a are the spec's for Toyota gasket?

 

[Downey]

emac, just saying. If your Remflex leaks, try copper coat on it.

 

[Pin_Head]

I remember having a hard time finding the torque specs for the intake manifold. I think I just used the generic torque for the size and grade of bolt. Something like 36 ft lbs.

 

[CarDude]

I took mine to a machine shop and had it resurface.then used a felpro gasket. And new studs and brass bolts. It's been on for a few months and its working great

 

[Will Van]

You guys might be able to help with this. I have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold to Holley Sniper adapter plate. I need to pull the intake manifold to have it machined flat. Any chance I can reuse my Remflex gasket? Nothing is leaking at the Remflex, and they’re not cheap to replace. TIA.

 

[emac]

pony up and buy a new gasket. Not worth the trouble

 

[Downey]

^^^^ Possibly try re-using your existing gasket with generous coating of Coppercoat ???