relocating AC dryer with factory stuff .... Eddited content and instructions (1 Viewer)

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here is the sire I ordered the U5 fittings from



An FYI for anyone looking, McMaster-Carr carries an equivalent of Swagelok. Most of the time cheaper than Swage, and they are easy to order from.

Just looked and their part is more than the Titan union by quite a bit! McMaster-Carr
 
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So just to be clear can you use a used R12 dryer, It looks like the one GLTHFJ60 install is a used one and Landtank mentions doing a conversion with used parts.
And thanks Rick for a great write up.
 
I'm in the middle of doing the relocate right now. Little confused on what to do about the pressure sensor. It looks like a lot of folks mentioned just reusing the r12 one, that seems to be what most have done as I see splices down the fender. Will that work? Or should I try harder to use the stock pressure sensor?

Would appreciate some guidance.

-Jay
 
I recall using the R12 sensor, and it plugged into the factory harness.

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I'm in the middle of doing the relocate right now. Little confused on what to do about the pressure sensor. It looks like a lot of folks mentioned just reusing the r12 one, that seems to be what most have done as I see splices down the fender. Will that work? Or should I try harder to use the stock pressure sensor?

Would appreciate some guidance.

-Jay
it depends on where you make the splice. The difference between the two is the threaded end. They are different sizes. So if you splice after the socket and keep the R12 socket then you need the R12 sensor. Splice before the socket and keep the R134 socket then use the R134 sensor.
 
I'm just confused on if the r12 sensor will work. I know the plug is the same but the pressures listed on the plug are different. Seems like a bad idea to use the R12 one. Although that seems to be what most people end up doing.

-Jay
 
I'm just confused on if the r12 sensor will work. I know the plug is the same but the pressures listed on the plug are different. Seems like a bad idea to use the R12 one. Although that seems to be what most people end up doing.

-Jay


You'll be fine. It's a Binary switch (high and low pressure switch). All it does is prevent the compressor (clutch) from running IF/When pressures are too low or too high. It really doesn't matter if those specified figures are a bit different.

R134a runs at higher pressures at the condenser (lower at the Evaporator) than R12 but it's of no consequence.
 
You'll be fine. It's a Binary switch (high and low pressure switch). All it does is prevent the compressor (clutch) from running IF/When pressures are too low or too high. It really doesn't matter if those specified figures are a bit different.

R134a runs at higher pressures at the condenser (lower at the Evaporator) than R12 but it's of no consequence.

Great info. Thank you! I'll go ahead with the much easier fender splice. :)

-Jay
 
Has anyone done this recently?

I’m having my brother order me all the OEM parts from the first post and he just called back and said the dryer bracket and pressure switch are both NLA.
 
Has anyone done this recently?

I’m having my brother order me all the OEM parts from the first post and he just called back and said the dryer bracket and pressure switch are both NLA.
You can Source those parts used from a 91 to 93
 
You can Source those parts used from a 91 to 93
That’s gonna be easy to find (sarcasm).

Edit: forgot there’s a part out forum here, gonna keep an eye out for an early model 80.
 
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That’s gonna be easy to find (sarcasm).

Edit: forgot there’s a part out forum here, gonna keep an eye out for an early model 80.
I did mine with all used parts except the dryer.
 
I did mine with all used parts except the dryer.
Thanks for the feedback. I’m just hoping I don’t have to pull the slee front bumper off to have full access to do this mod. Looks like I’ll be ok though.
 
Bumper can stay Grill headlights and valance need to come off for room to work 🤷‍♂️
 
I did this mod a couple of months ago. I sourced the dryer bracket from a local yard along with an old dryer(replaced with OEM R-12 version) and both lines coming out. I then ordered the fittings from Titan and was able to pick them up the next day because they are local here in Denver.

I kept my old pressure switch and everything is working VERY well. I also ended up replacing the expansion valve as I already had the system open when I rebuilt my engine.

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I’ve read through this multiple times and I’m still haven’t trouble relocating this line. Any insight would be appreciated.

I’ll try not to get too complicated. So I’ll just ask is see that you, @landtank , replaced the lines and dryer from the old truck to the newer truck. How were you able to use the old dryer if the newer system runs a different oil?
 
It just works. Different pressure sensors, old style dryer, with new style refrigerant.
 
I thought it was common to replace an old drier with a new drier when servicing AC systems. Why would you use an old drier from a junkyard? Do you bake the old drier to drive the moisture out before reusing it?
 
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I thought it was common to replace an old drier with a new drier when servicing AC systems. Why would you use an old drier from a junkyard? Do you bake the old drier to drive the moisture out before reusing it?
I used a brand new old style dryer.
 

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