relocating AC dryer with factory stuff .... Eddited content and instructions (1 Viewer)

[landtank]

First, this is how I relocate the AC dryer and I'll admit it's more expensive then bending the original dryer out of the way. You can't just plug in the R12 lines as they have different size ends on them. You use those lines but have to splice them in to the original lines.

Parts needed whether bought from the dealer or stripped out of a truck with an R12 setup

1 - 88716-60290 tube, liquid, NO A this goes to the dryer from the condenser
1 - 88716-60310 tube, liquid, NO B this goes from the dryer down the side of the fender
1 - 88471-16050 dryer
1 - 88472-60060 dryer bracket
2 - 90119-06336 bracket attachment bolts
1 - 90179-06274 nut for bracket clamp
1 - 88645-60020 pressure switch

parts from McMaster
2 - 95105A183 M6x1.0 steel rivnut

parts from swagelock
2 - U5 tube unions


begin by removing the battery tray, front grill, front DS head light and DS lower turn signal.

The first thing is to locate the existing holes where the dryer would mount if it was a R12 system.

They are the top right and bottom right holes in the picture.

You now need to drill them out with a 13/32" drill bit so you can insert the rivnut.

This picture shows how I install the rivnuts. In this case I used a file as it had a 1/4" hole in the end and you need to shield the rivnut from the washer so when you tighten the nut it won't just turn the rivnut off the screw. I use and allen wrench to hold the assembly in place and a gear wrench to turn the nut and compress the rivnut in place.

here is a pic with the rivnuts in place.

This finishes the modifying of the truck for the new parts.

 

[landtank]

Now we can mount the dryer bracket and dryer and start running the lines.

The first line I run is the one that goes from the condenser to the dryer. I take the 88716-60290 line and cut off the end as close to the o-ring flange as possible and then remove the nut. I then use a mini tubing cutter and cut off as little as possible so I get a nice clean cut and the tubing is long as possible. Then using a scotch bright pad I clean up the end. Here is a pic of the cut end ready to go.

Now you can mount the line in place on the dryer so it passes through the passage way and is pointing toward the condenser.

At this point you want to cut off the end of the original line at the condenser, clean and prep it as you did on the first line and align the two ends so there is a small gap between the two.

with both lines bolted in place you can now use the swagelock U5 union to join the two tubes. Make sure the tubes are fully inserted and then tighten them down. These want to be on the tight side as you need to firmly clamp onto the aluminum tubing which is a thick wall tubing.

NOTE: assemble the union with the compression nuts hand tight. Then mark the nuts with a sharpie and tighten each nut 1-1/2 turns.

Here is a pic of the front completed.

NOTE: this shows the tube running behind the head light assembly. A forum member has brought it top my attention that the line should run inside the battery box and exit toward the front through the elongated hole near the bend in the tube. So the instructions for drilling the passageway have been eliminated.

 

[landtank]

Now for the side pipe it's more of the same as the Condenser side. I place the splice on the front side of the battery tray. I first cut the line that is installed in the truck and then take the part that is removed and use it to mark the new line providing a similar gap for the union.

And here is a pic of the joint in place.

And an over view of the line in place

And this pic shows the drying in place and the tubing in place.

The first time I did this the system wouldn't hold vacuum and I needed to tighten the unions some more. After that it has held vacuum and worked fine.

EDIT: didn't last a full year as the charge lost a little and subsequently switched the unions for swagelock and they were much easier to install and it seems worked better.

 

[HDJdreams]

Timely thread! I pulling the condenser tomorrow to pull the engine. I was wondering about dryer relocation.

 

[cruisercesar]

This must be the most comprehensive thread on AC drier relocation topic. Surely a FAQ worthy material.

The two biggest roadblocks in AC drier relocation (if going OEM route) are to know what parts to use and how to make them fit. Combining parts from R12 and R134 systems could be tricky if welding/brazing is not an option. Not anymore. Mr. @landtank found the solution to combine R12 and R134 lines by using a compression fitting. He also went above and beyond to show how all is put together. Well done sir.

 

[landtank]

Thank you, I should also mention, if you are using lines off a used truck they might be painted black and you should remove that paint where the unions go. I used some 600 grit sand paper wet with alcohol. You want to get that down to bare aluminum.

 

[jfz80]

Nice work, and great write up Rick

 

[bajaphile]

Very nice work.

 

[2fpower]

Great thread @landtank . like your ideas here.

I made my upper union between the pressure switch and the dryer, as the switch appeared different between the years.

FWIW, I found that the 5/16 union fits better than the 8mm compression fitting and can be found at swageloc locally for me.

Here is that thread where I have part number.

AC Dryer Relocation kit?

 

[landtank]

the 5/16 unions are slightly (.0025") smaller and if they fit it's a better choice than the 8mm. The switch is electrically the same but has a different thread for installing it. My first go round was with used parts so I went with a convenient spot for the splice and just used the switch that was already in the line.

This time I used new parts and never gave it a thought that a different splice point would save me the cost of the switch.

Good feedback!

 

[landtank]

So I went out and wanted to check the situation with the Pressure switch. I'm not sure how you can avoid having to use the switch from the R12 system. Attached is the picture of the old R-134 pipe with the switch still in place and a second picture showing how the R-12 tubing runs from the dryer along the front edge and then bends down under the lip to the pressure switch. My finger is pointing to the R-12 switch position

I can't see how you would be able to cut the elbow off on the dryer side of the switch and have enough tubing to clamp onto.

 

[2fpower]

Maybe I was not clear. I put my union in where I circled on the photo, then covered it up with same insulation material. As you know, I had to bend the tube quite a bit, as the stock tube goes down to the evaporator; however, just was gentle and bent it to that location.

 

[2fpower]

FYI, since the way I did it, you only need about 6" of line coming out of the dryer, I went to the junkyard looking for any toyota that had that sharp bend coming out of the dryer going the direction I needed. Looked at tons of cars, none of them were right. So, I bought used parts off early 80.

 

[KrOswalt]

Ok so I’ve got some used parts from an older 80 series on the way. I’ve got the lines, dryer, dryer bracket and clamp, and pressure switch. I have some stainless swagelok fitting i got from work, so i think I’m good parts wise. Also this may seem like a dumb question but I can’t find an answer, I’m assuming everyone who has done this swap has refilled with R12? If swapping to R12 should you swap out the oil in the system as well? Thanks for the help

 

[flintknapper]

Ok so I’ve got some used parts from an older 80 series on the way. I’ve got the lines, dryer, dryer bracket and clamp, and pressure switch. I have some stainless swagelok fitting i got from work, so i think I’m good parts wise. Also this may seem like a dumb question but I can’t find an answer, I’m assuming everyone who has done this swap has refilled with R12? If swapping to R12 should you swap out the oil in the system as well? Thanks for the help

What year model is your cruiser?
Do you have an R12 or R134a system?
You can't reuse the drier you picked up.
R12 and 134a use different oils.

 

[KrOswalt]

What year model is your cruiser?
Do you have an R12 or R134a system?
You can't reuse the drier you picked up.
R12 and 134a use different oils.

Mines a 1996, uses r134. I’ve read you can use R12 in a 134 system if you change to the appropriate oil.

 

[flintknapper]

Mines a 1996, uses r134. I’ve read you can use R12 in a 134 system if you change to the appropriate oil.

Yes, you 'could' retrofit the system to R12. Not sure why you want to do this though?

IF you decide to do it you'll want to change your charging ports (and under-hood labels) so if anyone comes behind you they would have some 'clue' that you aren't running R134a in the system designed for it.

I recommend you 'flush' the lines and blow out the other components (Condenser, Evaporator, TXV), replace the drier. Drain the compressor and refill with appropriate amount of Mineral Oil. You'll need to determine how much more R12 the system will take than R134a and then weigh that in.

I hope you have a good source for R12, there is still some available....but its expensive.

You do know....a properly working R134a system can provide nice cold air?

 

[KrOswalt]

I've sourced some R12 so that’s not an issue. But when retrofitting a system to r134a it’s supposed to use 90% less than the r12 you took out (if you didn’t have a leak and your system is full). Also an r134 system uses a much larger condenser, if you can run r12 thru the same system it will be much colder, and to be honest in this Alabama heat it would be well worth it if my A/C was 5 degrees colder.

 

[inkpot]

I've sourced some R12 so that’s not an issue. But when retrofitting a system to r134a it’s supposed to use 90% less than the r12 you took out (if you didn’t have a leak and your system is full). Also an r134 system uses a much larger condenser, if you can run r12 thru the same system it will be much colder, and to be honest in this Alabama heat it would be well worth it if my A/C was 5 degrees colder.

The R12 condensor for a 93 80 series is exactly the same dimensions as a 134a condenser for a 97 80 series.

 

[-Spike-]

I've sourced some R12 so that’s not an issue. But when retrofitting a system to r134a it’s supposed to use 90% less than the r12 you took out (if you didn’t have a leak and your system is full). Also an r134 system uses a much larger condenser, if you can run r12 thru the same system it will be much colder, and to be honest in this Alabama heat it would be well worth it if my A/C was 5 degrees colder.

You're getting bad info from somewhere, check your facts.