Tires look great. AT3Ws have been amazing to me. So these must be even better.
Also love your plate!
Also love your plate!
Builds "Rednexus" - 2007 GX470 Build and Fabrication Thread (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter Rednexus
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So you got the Wildpeaks AT4W in 285/70R17 in SL.
I don’t tow or carry heavy loads, so you decision intrigues me.
Do you still get the benefits of 3-plys on the sidewall for rock crawling and overall puncture resistant on the trails?
Im considering C loads instead of E loads because the Toyo Open Country RT Trail in E load has a weight rating of almost 4000 lbs per tire which is close to 800 lbs more than regular E loads. I’m thinking too stiff sidewall.
But I never considered SL. In fact, some of the tires sizes I’m looking at are not offered in SL like 255/80R17s or 285/75R17
I don’t tow or carry heavy loads, so you decision intrigues me.
Do you still get the benefits of 3-plys on the sidewall for rock crawling and overall puncture resistant on the trails?
Im considering C loads instead of E loads because the Toyo Open Country RT Trail in E load has a weight rating of almost 4000 lbs per tire which is close to 800 lbs more than regular E loads. I’m thinking too stiff sidewall.
But I never considered SL. In fact, some of the tires sizes I’m looking at are not offered in SL like 255/80R17s or 285/75R17
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- Thread starter
- #403
I successfully ran SL Wildpeak AT3Ws in 265/70R17s for nearly 4 years. The only time I ever had an issue with one is when I got some sand in the bead doing donuts on a gravel bar. Zero flats, punctures, chunking, etc. They have very tough sidewalls. I usually ran them at 15-18 psi off roading, and our rocks around here are pretty sharp (chert and rhyolite), and they did quite well, also including in CO and UT.
I mainly compared them to other SL-rated tires - they have the same weight rating (2,756# per tire), but a higher psi rating (51 psi vs. 44 psi). I usually run 42 psi towing and 32 psi un-loaded on the highway. I was concerned something like a MT Baja Boss AT - which is a also lighter tire with a lower PSI rating - may have been weaker than a Wildpeak.
After having put ~500 miles on them, I'm personally glad I didn't go with a C or an E. They are 53# a tire, which is quite heavy for a SL, and I do notice the change in acceleration and braking compared to my worn 265s that were 46# a tire new. TBH, it will take some getting used to, although I can already tell they ride much better on rough roads and gravel and will undoubtedly be better off-road than the 265s. While I am sure the 3-ply sidewalls are tougher, the 2-ply Wildpeak sidewalls have been more than tough enough for my uses, so I am not sure they are worth the extra weight.
I mainly compared them to other SL-rated tires - they have the same weight rating (2,756# per tire), but a higher psi rating (51 psi vs. 44 psi). I usually run 42 psi towing and 32 psi un-loaded on the highway. I was concerned something like a MT Baja Boss AT - which is a also lighter tire with a lower PSI rating - may have been weaker than a Wildpeak.
After having put ~500 miles on them, I'm personally glad I didn't go with a C or an E. They are 53# a tire, which is quite heavy for a SL, and I do notice the change in acceleration and braking compared to my worn 265s that were 46# a tire new. TBH, it will take some getting used to, although I can already tell they ride much better on rough roads and gravel and will undoubtedly be better off-road than the 265s. While I am sure the 3-ply sidewalls are tougher, the 2-ply Wildpeak sidewalls have been more than tough enough for my uses, so I am not sure they are worth the extra weight.
Good insight…I know that the E loads are for cargo trucks or towing, but most of us associate E loads with ofroading because we assume the tire has stronger sidewalls and stronger/thicker contact points with terrain.
And my GX470 is not a daily driver, so I’m okay with stiffer tires but the Toyo RT Trails are something else in terms of load rating at close to 4000 lbs.
My ideal tire which doesn’t exist is a true 34x11R17 hybrid tire that weights at most 60 lbs and comes in C load (2800 lbs) with 3-ply sidewalls…LOL
And my GX470 is not a daily driver, so I’m okay with stiffer tires but the Toyo RT Trails are something else in terms of load rating at close to 4000 lbs.
My ideal tire which doesn’t exist is a true 34x11R17 hybrid tire that weights at most 60 lbs and comes in C load (2800 lbs) with 3-ply sidewalls…LOL
- Thread starter
- #405
My tire guy said that Toyos are the best. He really likes the Open Country AT3. I picked the Wildpeaks over the Toyos as, IMO, the Wildpeaks look better and are a bit more robust in the SL rating. His opinion on the Wildpeaks is that they've "priced themselves out of the market" - had it not been for the stellar performance of my last set i would have probably gone with something else - as they've gone up a LOT since I bought my 265s for $165/each in late 2020.
I seriously considered the Toyo RT trails but the SL-rated 285s were almost nonexistent. Only Summit Racing had a set of them, so I had concerns about getting a replacement if I did somehow destroy one. Otherwise, that's what I would have bought.
When this becomes my non-DD I'll honestly probably consider the RT Trails in a 285/75 too! I do find - from cycling - that a lighter/more supple tire usually has better traction as it can deform to the contour of the ground a bit more than a heavier, flat-resistant tire. IMO, i think all thinks being equal that a SL will out-wheel a C and a C will out-wheel an E.
I seriously considered the Toyo RT trails but the SL-rated 285s were almost nonexistent. Only Summit Racing had a set of them, so I had concerns about getting a replacement if I did somehow destroy one. Otherwise, that's what I would have bought.
When this becomes my non-DD I'll honestly probably consider the RT Trails in a 285/75 too! I do find - from cycling - that a lighter/more supple tire usually has better traction as it can deform to the contour of the ground a bit more than a heavier, flat-resistant tire. IMO, i think all thinks being equal that a SL will out-wheel a C and a C will out-wheel an E.
I think that’s the balancing act…a supple/grippy tire vs a puncture resistant tire
There’s a video on YouTube whereby two 35” Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT E tires were compared at various levels of air pressure 255/85/17 (35x10) and 315/70/17 (35x12.5) and the skinny tire became supple and grippy quicker at lower PSIs like at 12 PSI and lower whereby the fat tire became supple/grippy at like under 4 psi.
So, the moral of the video is that these skinny tires tend to have an equal or better contact patch with the ground and tend to grip around rocks/terrain better than fat tires at the lower PSIs.
So, the amount of psi on tires also changes how they perform.
I've always held that opinion which is why I opted for 265/70/17's instead of much fatter tires. Good stuff thanks for sharing.
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- Thread starter
- #408
My initial impressions is that I would not add 285s for a DD unless you are OK with some reductions in acceleration/braking, or are willing to do a regear. I know a lot of folks on here do run 285s - or larger - without a regear so it's certainly done on a routine basis, it just eats up some responsiveness. I came from a background of 2,300-3,200# small cars, often with manuals, and like my vehicles to be quite zippy.
I can already tell that these 285s are going to wheel a LOT better - just after driving them on some gravel roads and observing the feeling of floating over bumps/rough stuff that is nothing like the same roads were on 265s. This will be verified in ~6 weeks when they hit the Alpine Loop
.It's also now sitting at ~13-13.5 inches of ground clearance under the front skids, which is equal to a Bronco Raptor on 37s. That in itself is a huge advantage off-road.
Ahhh, my early youth. LOL The smallest and zippiest of the group were a 1989 240SX notchback 5spd and a 1998 200SX SE-R 5spd. Those were such great little cars back in the day. Wish I still had the '98 200SX though, what a beautiful car. It was a rarer blue color.My initial impressions is that I would not add 285s for a DD unless you are OK with some reductions in acceleration/braking, or are willing to do a regear. I know a lot of folks on here do run 285s - or larger - without a regear so it's certainly done on a routine basis, it just eats up some responsiveness. I came from a background of 2,300-3,200# small cars, often with manuals, and like my vehicles to be quite zippy.
I can already tell that these 285s are going to wheel a LOT better - just after driving them on some gravel roads and observing the feeling of floating over bumps/rough stuff that is nothing like the same roads were on 265s. This will be verified in ~6 weeks when they hit the Alpine Loop
It's also now sitting at ~13-13.5 inches of ground clearance under the front skids, which is equal to a Bronco Raptor on 37s. That in itself is a huge advantage off-road.
BMC was not required for me on 285/70R17 Nittos
I was at 3.7* caster and only the driver side would rub on the front sway bar at full turn.
Removing front sway bar also removed the rubbing.
But no BMC for me…that’s is until I get to 34s…then BMC and hammer pinch welds
Oh and regarding the loss of responsiveness on 285/70/17s on stock gears…an ecu tune would fix that without regearing.
So, I guess I’m just saying there’s other workarounds…maybe not ideal…but workarounds nonetheless
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- Thread starter
- #412
I already have a ECU tune, headers, and exhaust. On 265s, the GX ran like a scalded dog compared to stock. 285s just diminished that performance I had gotten used to a little bit . It's probably still quicker than a stock GX on stock tires.
. It's probably still quicker than a stock GX on stock tires.
I didn’t know you also had a tune…I re-geared to 4.56s and I’m having issues accelerating on freeway on steep hills…I have to downshift to 4th because it won’t do it on its ownI already have a ECU tune, headers, and exhaust. On 265s, the GX ran like a scalded dog compared to stock. 285s just diminished that performance I had gotten used to a little bit
I’m waiting to get my 34s to go get my first tune. And I’m going to ask about my acceleration issue on 4.56s and 33s…like I can’t go from 60 to 70 when going uphill…it stays at 60 in overdrive and I have to downshift to make it accelerate to 70 mph
- Thread starter
- #414
The stock trans tuning in these does kind of suck. I put a Nomad valve body in mine which helped a lot - but actually messed with the trans part of the tune. YotaWerx made me a custom tune that has the Active Duty engine tune combined with a stock trans tune.
It's definitely interesting that it's not downshifting for yours - I would not have expected the gears to make a difference. A tune would seem to be a good place to start to hopefully get it to kick down into 4th.
It's definitely interesting that it's not downshifting for yours - I would not have expected the gears to make a difference. A tune would seem to be a good place to start to hopefully get it to kick down into 4th.
- Thread starter
- #415
Started re-doing the compressor wiring today.
^Added a terminal block to the side of DIY tray. I'll run 6 ga from my aux wiring system to here so the compress is more of less direct to the battery, then run 10 ga the remaining few inches to the compressor. The Smittybilt wiring is 10 ga, and I already have a 60a circuit breaker too.
^I also opened up the compressor given the multiple thermal shutoff events during my last air-up. It used to take 7 tires to get it to shut off, now it's two. The cylinder bore was fairly scored and there was almost no grease remaining. I liberally applied some PTFE grease and hope this helps limp it through a trip to CO in September. This compressor is really pretty cheap though and will eventually be replaced with a ARB or Puma. I will no longer recommend a Smittybilt to anyone.
^Added a terminal block to the side of DIY tray. I'll run 6 ga from my aux wiring system to here so the compress is more of less direct to the battery, then run 10 ga the remaining few inches to the compressor. The Smittybilt wiring is 10 ga, and I already have a 60a circuit breaker too.
^I also opened up the compressor given the multiple thermal shutoff events during my last air-up. It used to take 7 tires to get it to shut off, now it's two. The cylinder bore was fairly scored and there was almost no grease remaining. I liberally applied some PTFE grease and hope this helps limp it through a trip to CO in September. This compressor is really pretty cheap though and will eventually be replaced with a ARB or Puma. I will no longer recommend a Smittybilt to anyone.
Ive got a single ARB in the Crosstrek and it has always done great, but I also only run "29s" on the Trek lol.
I assumed I would just get an ARB twin for the GX at some point. I recently stumbled across a video of a guy comparing the ARB Twin to the MorrFlate 10.6.
The Morr not only inflated 4 tires faster, it has a digital pressure gauge to read/display/auto-set the desired pressure... AND almost half the price of the ARB Twin (EDIT: The ARB single that I have is actually now more expensive than the Morr now too!! The single was $266 when I bought it in 2018... its now $335!!)
Morrflate: https://amzn.to/4fnEKzc
I assumed I would just get an ARB twin for the GX at some point. I recently stumbled across a video of a guy comparing the ARB Twin to the MorrFlate 10.6.
The Morr not only inflated 4 tires faster, it has a digital pressure gauge to read/display/auto-set the desired pressure... AND almost half the price of the ARB Twin (EDIT: The ARB single that I have is actually now more expensive than the Morr now too!! The single was $266 when I bought it in 2018... its now $335!!)
Morrflate: https://amzn.to/4fnEKzc
- Thread starter
- #417
I think the Morrflate is s double version on my Smittybilt 2781. From opening mine up, they are just cheap. Lots of plastic, wire nuts on the 10 ga, etc. Mine is pretty worn after just 2 years, and I may go 2+ months without turning it on sometimes.
However it's a shame that an ARB twin is the same price as a 60-gal, 220v shop air compressor! Crazy money for such a tiny little compressor.
www.menards.com
Edit: Here is the Puma that is $329. Folks on Mud have installed them (after ditching the tank) for a decade plus with no issues and they are cheap and should fit on my current compressor tray. 100% duty cycle like an ARB. The only problem is that they are probably a bit slower than my Smittybilt and not ARB fast.
www.aircompressorsdirect.com
However it's a shame that an ARB twin is the same price as a 60-gal, 220v shop air compressor! Crazy money for such a tiny little compressor.
Masterforce® Belt Drive 60-Gallon 155 PSI Stationary Electric Vertical Air Compressor
The Masterforce® 60-gallon, oil-lubricated air compressor features a twin-cylinder, cast iron pump that includes a one-piece cast iron crankcase, a thermally stable, cast iron cylinder body, an aluminum head and machined cast iron valve plate, automotive-style ball bearings, curable stainless...
www.menards.com
Edit: Here is the Puma that is $329. Folks on Mud have installed them (after ditching the tank) for a decade plus with no issues and they are cheap and should fit on my current compressor tray. 100% duty cycle like an ARB. The only problem is that they are probably a bit slower than my Smittybilt and not ARB fast.
Puma PD1006 3/4-HP 1.5-Gallon 12-Volt Continuous Duty DC Air Compressor
Buy Puma PD1006 Direct. Free Shipping. Check the Puma 3/4-HP 1.5-Gallon 12-Volt Continuous Duty DC Air Compressor ratings before checking out.
www.aircompressorsdirect.com
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Well I dont have any current plans on getting a compressor in the GX, so maybe the Morr will get put through the paces over the next few years hehe.
Yeah, crazy how expensive ARB has gotten.. I mean it works, but damn!
Yeah, crazy how expensive ARB has gotten.. I mean it works, but damn!
- Thread starter
- #419
Got the 6-ga wire ran today, which wasn't too bad, and also gave me an opportunity to tuck other aux wiring up behind the new 6 ga wire.
Then, I did a test of the compressor. It did OK for the first tire, but cut out for a second. Thinking it might be the pressure switch, I bypassed it, after which is quickly filled the 2nd tire without issue. Then it quit and threw the main circuit breaker on my aux panel. It would run for a second when I flipped the circuit breaker back on, even with the switch off, then immediately trip the breaker.
So I pulled the compressor out and disassembled it. The trigger small thermal shutoff power wire for the compressor had rubbed a hole in the insulation where it goes into the compressor body. This is a pretty big design flaw as there is no protective sheathing on this wire. Just the wire rubbing directly on a metal that gets very hot and vibrates a ton. You can see wear on the 10 ga positive and negative wires as well, although at least the positive wire has a nominal amount of sheathing.
I tried to disassemble the compressor but think the motor housing is pressed together. The small wire broke off inside the compressor during the disassembly process. These Smittybilt compressors - and likely all of the similar versions that are sold under other names - are really pretty poorly built junk. I can no longer recommend them to anyone unless someone is willing to spend hours re-doing all of the wiring, only to have it wear out a few years later.
I spoke with Mrs. Rednexus and she luckily agreed to let me order an ARB Twin. I might have been able to pry open the Smittybilt and spend hours to fix it, but at this point I don't trust the thing. I also have a few burns on my forearm from turning the thing on and off as it gets hot. Hopefully it'll be a "one and done" with the ARB twin, and I won't have to think or worry about it again and have a compressor that just works.
Then, I did a test of the compressor. It did OK for the first tire, but cut out for a second. Thinking it might be the pressure switch, I bypassed it, after which is quickly filled the 2nd tire without issue. Then it quit and threw the main circuit breaker on my aux panel. It would run for a second when I flipped the circuit breaker back on, even with the switch off, then immediately trip the breaker.
So I pulled the compressor out and disassembled it. The trigger small thermal shutoff power wire for the compressor had rubbed a hole in the insulation where it goes into the compressor body. This is a pretty big design flaw as there is no protective sheathing on this wire. Just the wire rubbing directly on a metal that gets very hot and vibrates a ton. You can see wear on the 10 ga positive and negative wires as well, although at least the positive wire has a nominal amount of sheathing.
I tried to disassemble the compressor but think the motor housing is pressed together. The small wire broke off inside the compressor during the disassembly process. These Smittybilt compressors - and likely all of the similar versions that are sold under other names - are really pretty poorly built junk. I can no longer recommend them to anyone unless someone is willing to spend hours re-doing all of the wiring, only to have it wear out a few years later.
- Thread starter
- #420
Went over to a friends house this PM who has a lift. We burned in the BMC kit pretty quickly. The first one took maybe 30 minutes and the second took less than 15. This was a $26 Amazon BMC kit. It came with a bend in the middle of the plate, we actually flattened it in a press to make the cutting easier. Zero rubbing now!
While the GX was up in the air I went ahead and swapped out the stock-style pads (Bosch QuietCast) for some EBC Greenstuffs. I had not been totally happy with the brake pedal feel after going back to OEM Toyota rubber lines and adding heavier 33s. It definitely stops quite a bit better now and has better feel, although I need to finish breaking them in to really see the benefits.
Bonus points for them matching my Ironman springs!
While I was doing to brakes my buddy made a little metal bracket to hold the lower trim/former step piece in. I had this zip tied to the old body mount, which had been sliced off. It's not way more strudy and looks quite a bit better.
While the GX was up in the air I went ahead and swapped out the stock-style pads (Bosch QuietCast) for some EBC Greenstuffs. I had not been totally happy with the brake pedal feel after going back to OEM Toyota rubber lines and adding heavier 33s. It definitely stops quite a bit better now and has better feel, although I need to finish breaking them in to really see the benefits.
Bonus points for them matching my Ironman springs!
While I was doing to brakes my buddy made a little metal bracket to hold the lower trim/former step piece in. I had this zip tied to the old body mount, which had been sliced off. It's not way more strudy and looks quite a bit better.
