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Installed an ebay snorkel on the 80 yesterday. It was pretty straight forward and since I'd installed one on a 62 before I had an idea of what the steps were already. Took 2 hours to get it all tightened up.



The template was pretty crappy. A few of the holes didn't line up and it didn't seem like the template was even cut correctly to fit up to the top/side of the fender. I ended up pretty much tossing it and measuring a bunch of stuff, but it ended up fitting really well.



Used some double sided tape to stick the a pillar bracket and drilled some big holes for some M6 stainless nutserts because i didn't want to use the rivets provided.



Bracket installed with some allen head bolts dipped in some silicon sealant to prevent any leaking.



All the nuts went on pretty easily but the last 2 that are really close to the passenger door. I had to use this double sided tape technique to get them to engage to the studs but a half turn.



Put some silicon sealant in the rubber tube and tightened it onto the plastic snorkel tube as well as the air filter with the tube clamps.



Installed and ready for some deep water.



So what was the first thing I did when I was done... I took it to a concrete ramp to see how much more flex it added.





Flex for dayz





Needless to say it didn't add any flex, but man do I feel cool driving around with this piece of plastic stuck to the side of my 80 now :smokin:

Nice, that's more wheeling than I have been able to do lately!

:crybaby::)
 
Thanks your for you posts. I now know what to do with my burgundy FZJ-80. I have been trying to figure out what to do with the bad paint I have and don't want to spend 4-6K on a traditional paint job. Thanks for posting what I hope someday my truck will look like. Keep up the good work and please keep posting.

Thanks! The monstaliner definitely came out better than I had hoped for. Should look pretty good on your rig too!

Nice, that's more wheeling than I have been able to do lately!
:crybaby::)

yeah i haven't really done too much wheeling since I cut off my sliders for the monstaliner job. Gotta get started on some new ones if i can ever find time too.
 
I finally decided to start making a tailgate lid for storage that I've been wanting for a while now. Had the main idea of what I wanted; two doors, locking latches, and all the other usual jazz. So about a week ago I started measuring the tailgate panel and got started on a CAD drawing/model that I could print out at full scale to determine if things were lining up before I decided to take it to the water jet. I took a vertical picture of the tailgate with a ruler for scale and used it for a reference sketch in Solidworks to get everything going.



You can see the dirt that got into the tailgate under the carpet panel because of the dent in the tailgate surface. I decided to make the bottom extend further down than most tailgate lids offered by vendors, but not too far to interfere with the proper sealing of the bottom weatherstripping.



I went through about 4 paper templates for the doors and main panel. Surprisingly, making a .DXF and full size printing on multiple A4 sheets worked very well and gave final dimensions that were less than a 1/16" off of the end-to-end horizontal dimension. After that was all set, I took the files and material to be water jetted out. It helps when you get to use these kinda fancy tools at free at school. The top panel is .135" steel plate and the doors are black 1/2" Seaboard HDPE.



After everything was cut, I got started welding a lip around the inner door perimeter to act as a stiffer, as well as an vertical extended piece to mount the door hinges and door stops on the opposite side.



I had a couple ideas on how to bend the flat bar into the radius that I needed. I made it a standard bend die radius that machine shops could bend, but all the ones around me were all wanting too much for what I thought I knew I could accomplish with a MAP gas torch, a few heavy tacks, and an adjustable wrench. So, I went to town and it ultimately came out really nice. I purposefully lined the flat bar up a little bit shy of the panel perimeter to account for welding and grinding later on.



Here is the first side all finished up.



I started with the second lip on the inner edge in the middle and worked my way to the left side edge so that I would be a little easier to determine the length to cut at the end. Turned out being a much better idea since it went much quicker and easier.



I got a little better bending the radii on the second go round (right). I ended up correcting the semi-irregular bend on the left by heating and giving a couple good smacks with the big ole hammer. All these tacks were ground down so what they could be welded over later without causing a larger portion on the weld that might interfere with the cut of the actual tailgate later down the line.



Kinda looks like someone who had an idea of what they were doing did it :grinpimp:



My idea was to stitch weld the flat par all the way around on the bottom side, then weld the .135" panel to the flat bar on the inner edge so I could grind all that off to make it basically looked like one piece of metal. I don't really think that was necessary since it didn't really add much strength, but was mostly for cosmetics and to make sure the powder coat didn't crack around there after some use.



Here's a mockup of the door size to the panel. Went with a 2mm offset from the inner panel door dimension which turned out being pretty much perfect to ensure nothing binds when opening or closing. The initial height for the doors was incorrect because of the hinge not being the correct dimension in the Solidworks assembly I had. Wasn't a problem though, I just ended up taking about 1.5mm off the top with a straight router bit.
 


Here is a mock up of the panel on the tailgate. Previously, I laid the panel onto the tailgate to mark the inside of the doors with tape. I took a sharpie and marked about .250" away from the tape and that's where I determined I should cut to lay the lid in once done.



This was after I welded the inside perimeter and took a grinder to it and smoothed it all out. It was a PITA but ended up looking good without the seam all the way around.

I still am waiting on a few parts to get here, but they will be here tomorrow so I can finish up the rest of the build.

What's Next:
-Weld on hinges and door stops
-Grind that shiz up again and smooth it down
-Mount them doors
-Powder coat
-And most importantly, cut that big :censor:in' hole and hoping for the best, but that is future me's problem
 


I decided to cut the hole in the tailgate so I could drop the lid in and see how everything fit. It went pretty much as I thought it would. Left a good pile of metal powder inside the tailgate. Also, I decided to tack the upper lip of the tailgate which was previously broken and bent down a good bit. I meant to do this before I monstlined but forgot but a little color matched spray paint will do the trick since it won't even be able to be seen.



The hinges and door stops were a pretty straight forward install. The hinges were welded on the top surface and bottom on the surrounding lip and then rosette welded just because I don't want them ever coming off. But they seem really sturdy considering how small they are.



The tailgate lid fit was spot on. The holes lined up with minimal redrilling and it sits up right where I wanted along the top bead of the lower tailgate. It extends about 1/4" below the weatherstripping on the lower portion which seems to keep road noise down from the exhaust much better than before.



The doors look pretty sweet all set up like this. They sit level to the .135" panel because I used a strap piece of HDPE to line up the hinges and stopper.



I put more tacks on the top hinge surface near the ends because that was a place that would get more stress from twisting. I have a pretty good feeling the screws on the doors would rip out before the hinge does which is good.



The hinges are from Southco (C5 series). I liked these over some of the other options Southco offers because you have something better to hold onto to open them. They are around $65 retail but on amazon they are significantly cheaper.



I used lots of screws to hold the doors on, mostly because I wanted the doors to be sturdy and they are pretty much rock solid. I gave it the old torture test of me getting on and standing on only the HDPE doors. They withstood me standing and even jumping up and down on the middle of a single door.



One thing that I was mindful of is that I didn't want the rear latch mechanism to be seen from the lid opening. It was greasy and I didn't want that getting on anything inside the tailgate. The door opening is still about 9.75" in height but just bumped a hair down to not show that stuff. Looks better than seeing all the crap.



Look at all that room for activities. It really isn't that much, but I did this just to pimp the rig out a little. I welded a wrap for the wires to be hung on so they won't be in the way of anything (after this pic). I'm still not sure if I'm gonna dynamat the inside yet. It's really not that loud on the highway when closed and dynamat gets pretty sticky and gross when its exposed to hot surfaces. But we will see as it progresses.

Pretty much all I have to do is to take it to ACC to get powedercoated and then bolt it in for good. Then start tossing stuff in there and forgetting about it.
 
So few likes.. The people have spoken. Toss that fakeass wagon gear lid in the trash.
 
I picked up the powder coated tailgate lid from ACC a couple days ago. Looks great as always from them. Got it installed after trying to finally clean out the inside of the tailgate from metal dust and dirt.







Still need to put some strips of foam/rubber to stop it from slamming closed if you drop the doors, but that really isn't too big of an issue for now.





I decided to take off all of the inner support structure of the tailgate, mostly because they were very sharp and there wasn't really any good way of covering them up. It was pretty simple to do by just drilling out the rosette welds that weren't going to be visible and then rocking the supports back and forth until the metal bracket eventually broke. Gotta be careful not to rip the rosette welds out completely though. Then I just filed them down to the weren't sharp.



The latches are pretty stout. The rubber stoppers are a lot nicer than the metal on metal contact of the bolt. It lets you get a tighter connection since it has a bit of give. I also put a 1/16" round over on all the exposed edges of the HDPE lids to make them look more finished and resistant to edge damage.







Filled it up with a bunch of junk that used to just be tossed in the back of my truck so it cleans up the truck by itself. Still have some more space but surprisingly the things that are already in there don't shift around when driving or when opening/closing the lower tailgate.

Overall, making one was pretty simple and cheap if you have the time and know how to weld/grind well. If you aren't interested in making one, I'd still stay go for the Wagongear lids when they come in stock and hope to get lucky.
 
Nicely done with some classy touches added in! I love the brotherly love in here too. lol You and your brother need to get out of the 706 and plan a trip out to Colorado and Utah!
 
Nicely done with some classy touches added in! I love the brotherly love in here too. lol You and your brother need to get out of the 706 and plan a trip out to Colorado and Utah!

Thanks! Yeah we frequent the Boulder, CO area a good bit since we have some family out there, but we do need to plan a trip out there to check out the trails. They're a good bit different than the trails out on the east coast for sure.
 
I got tired of having to reach into my tool bag with a jumbled mess of tools in it to find what I needed so I decided to make a tool roll to try to make it easier to get what I need.

35957280363_4c8e52f736_c.jpg


Imagine this jumbled mess but in a dark ass tool bag and you can never find that 10mm socket that you are looking for. These are all the tools that I managed to fit into the tool roll, although I probably should've just filled it with rows of 10mm and 12mm sockets/wrenches and maybe an adjustable to take care of the odd ball sizes. Just trash the rest of the tools...



The main construction is 18oz beeswaxed canvas and 6oz leather. I also got some mil spec velcro to hold the straps down. Didn't like the idea of buckles or studs to hold the straps down because they all look like something that belongs on your mom's purse. :princess:





Every tool has its own pouch so its easy to locate and use. The leather cover makes sure that none of the wrenches fall out of the top.

Still have some other zippered/velcro bags in the works so I can put the longer tools that wouldn't fit well in a roll in. Then I can finally toss my old tool bag in the garage and work with just these from now on.
 
You're not allowed to cheap out on Wagongear and then have Snap-on trail tools :flipoff2:
 
Sweet build! I'm in Dahlonega during the school year and Cumming in the summer. Let me know if you're ever in the area and need some help.

Thanks! I lived up in Dahlonega a year ago when I went to UNG. I'm surprised we never crossed paths. But I make my way up there every once in a while to check out the FSRs and blueline. You should check out the Georgia Cruisers sometime on mud and come to a meeting.
 
Actually now that I think about it... I think I saw you driving around the drill field once or twice. Ha! I'd love to. Need to find a community of other local cruiser guys besides my friends.
 
@pandathrust info on the tool roll? I need one of those.
 
Sweet build!! Hope to see you around sometime.

thanks. same with you. I'd like to check out some diesel 80 goodness sometime.

Actually now that I think about it... I think I saw you driving around the drill field once or twice. Ha! I'd love to. Need to find a community of other local cruiser guys besides my friends.

Yeah the GA Cruisers is a good place to start. The meeting info is posted over on the clubhouse, should be one comping up pretty soon.

@pandathrust info on the tool roll? I need one of those.

Matthew, I actually made this one but after posting it in the what did you do with your 80 thread here a couple other people seem interested in it too. I'm in the process of trying to figure out if its worth selling since it takes so long for me to make.
 
So my drive belts decided to turn into spaghetti last week when I was driving home from work and managed to trash my radiator in the process. The stock radiator was garbage anyway and had that brown color of death that was needing a replacement anyway so I figured now was a good time to change that out for some new Toyota goodness.



Belt remnants



Broken thingy on the radiator



Taking the old stuff out is easy when you don't care about reusing it so that only took like an hour to rip the radiator/fan shroud and belts out. Putting the new stuff in was a little bit of a PITA but it didn't take that long to do.



I also decided to get a new water valve assembly on the firewall since that thing was looking pretty bad when I was replacing the hoses a couple months ago. Replaced all the hose clamps with those fancy constant torque clamps on the rear coolant hoses since that's what all the cool people are doing nowadays.



Putting the new radiator in was straight forward but putting the fan shroud on without following the FSM was a little tricky since there are a lot of obstructions to squeeze around on the driver side. But after it was all tightened up, I was happy all I had to do was fill it up and it was good to go. Now I'll be good for another 20 years.



Probably the important part of the whole thing was tossing on these shinny ass front axle dust covers on. Something happened to my passenger side one a few months ago and its been missing but now I've got some dubs on these rims. Next thing is to buy new tires, or find a way to fit some 37s on there since I know a good place to snag some of those...
 

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