Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (5 Viewers)

[Shipwreck]

Shhhh…. Right now I’m fitting the front frame and track bar bracket reinforcement kit from Delta. The plate that goes on the inside of the frame does not fit correctly. I contacted Dave at Delta and he said I’m the second person to have this issue and asked for the VIN of my 80.

Add me that list as well. I recently purchased the same reinforcement plate and mine looked just like yours. I ended up grinding one side, and adding material to the other, but it still fit crappy. Small plate on the outer side didn't fit right either. I made it work, but I wish I would have bought the Rampt kit.

 

[baldilocks]

Add me that list as well. I recently purchased the same reinforcement plate and mine looked just like yours. I ended up grinding one side, and adding material to the other, but it still fit crappy. Small plate on the outer side didn't fit right either. I made it work, but I wish I would have bought the Rampt kit.

The Rampt Customs kit does look very good and complete but the price plus shipping from OZ is prohibitive. I’ll give Delta the nod here but in the mean time I think I’ll take a shot at making my own inner side of the frame reinforcement plate in order to keep this project moving along.

 

[baldilocks]

I’d call this my own variation on the install of a Delta frame and track bar reinforcement kit. On the outboard side of the track bar bracket where it meets the frame I did my own thing using double layers of 3/16 plate. The piece that came with the kit for that location got reduced in size and was used to span the upper area of the bracket on the engine side of the frame up to the frame reinforcement plate.

 

[baldilocks]

I think the eimkieth lower link armor is a very good value now that I have one side welded on. The fit is perfect but I discovered that my 24mm socket would not fit through the provided access hole. Be aware that this could be an issue. It didn’t take too long with a double cut bastard file to expand the forward and aft sides of the holes sufficiently.

If you plan to go crawling rocks this armor is recommended because eventually the rear frame end lower link mounts will deform

After clearancing the hole just enough:

 

[baldilocks]

MRO high solids flat black. Not chalky flat but similar to what Rustoleum calls satin black. I like it so far. They claim it’s more durable than other popular brands. Time will tell.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Nice work Steve! MRO makes great paint solid choice! I have painted a couple blocks and parts with MRO.

 

[baldilocks]

Nice work Steve! MRO makes great paint solid choice! I have painted a couple blocks and parts with MRO.

Thanks. I learned of this paint in someone’s else’s thread. I thought I’d try it out. How much oil would you suggest I poor into those filter holes in the block?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Thanks. I learned of this paint in someone’s else’s thread. I thought I’d try it out. How much oil would you suggest I poor into those filter holes in the block?

Just the filter inlet to the left you can see it fill up, that passage goes directly to the top of the oil pump and will only take a couple ounces. It helps prime the top side of the pump with head pressure.

 

[baldilocks]

Just the filter inlet to the left you can see it fill up, that passage goes directly to the top of the oil pump and will only take a couple ounces. It helps prime the top side of the pump with head pressure.

Seems like that oil will eventually seep through the pump back to the pan.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Seems like that oil will eventually seep through the pump back to the pan.

Potentially, it’s pretty tight tolerance and it’s been successful for the engine startups I have done.

 

[Box Rocket]

I think the eimkieth lower link armor is a very good value now that I have one side welded on. The fit is perfect but I discovered that my 24mm socket would not fit through the provided access hole. Be aware that this could be an issue. It didn’t take too long with a double cut bastard file to expand the forward and aft sides of the holes sufficiently.

If you plan to go crawling rocks this armor is recommended because eventually the rear frame end lower link mounts will deform

After clearancing the hole just enough:
View attachment 3778519View attachment 3778520View attachment 3778521View attachment 3778522View attachment 3778523

Is there anywhere for water/mud to drain out of the eimkeith bracket? Specifically wondering about the link bolt head access hole. Looks like the access hole itself is the only drain. Should be fine I would think but definitely possible to fill that void with mud.

 

[baldilocks]

Is there anywhere for water/mud to drain out of the eimkeith bracket? Specifically wondering about the link bolt head access hole. Looks like the access hole itself is the only drain. Should be fine I would think but definitely possible to fill that void with mud.

In his instructions he directs us to leave a small hole at the bottom. I did do that but they are small. I wanted maximum resistance to deformation. If you look closely you will see small drain holes at the very bottom.

I was very impressed with how perfectly they fit.

 

[baldilocks]

I had the A343 rebuilt a few months ago. Today I’ll replace the throttle cable and install a bung for the temp sensor. I like the folks over at Metro Transmission here in Vancouver WA, they have done a couple jobs for me and have proven there competence. They put a TransGo reprogramming kit in the valve body. I’m looking forward to driving this rig!

I got the throttle cable from @cruisers and Co…..

 

[baldilocks]

The cable change and sensor install went Cracker Jack.

 

[Box Rocket]

In his instructions he directs us to leave a small hole at the bottom. I did do that but they are small. I wanted maximum resistance to deformation. If you look closely you will see small drain holes at the very bottom.

I was very impressed with how perfectly they fit.

I've got a couple other eimkeith parts and like you mentioned, the fit is perfect.

 

[baldilocks]

Priorities!

 

[baldilocks]

 

[baldilocks]

Note: I had to pull the fuel rail in order to install the lift bracket.

 

[baldilocks]

I thought I misplaced the spacer that clamps the ring gear to the crank with the ten bolts. I was up at 0430 because my mind was grinding away on this stale project so I grabbed a cup of coffee and came out to the garage thinking the next step is easy peasy then I spent the next 90 minutes looking for that spacer which I found sitting exactly where I left it several months ago. It’s on and torqued to 74lbft for the Mud record.

 

[Shipwreck]

I spent the next 90 minutes looking for that spacer which I found sitting exactly where I left it several months ago.

For next time:

... Coming along nicely!