So what are you doing to power your s***box?
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter baldilocks
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- Thread starter
- #1,022
This 93 is going the way of the forgotten. I flopped it at 25mph up on a narrow rural road up in the forest last May. I bought a stock 96 to replace it. The 96 is solid but needs work. I’ll swap all the goodies from 93 to the 96 and all OEM parts which I’ve replaced on the 93 that will transfer.
The 96 power train will also come out. At 238k she bleeds oil badly and will puff some blue smoke going from idle to the floor after idling for a couple minutes.
Now to your question. I’m sticking with that 96 1fz. Will do some tests to confirm the integrity of the bottom end and hopefully get away with a head refurbishment and new gaskets and seals all around.
I can’t justify the cost of a swap. I don’t drive enough to ever recoup the cost of a swap of any kind in fuel savings. With the 96 being OBD2 a turbo kit is an option if I ever want more power which I don’t foresee.
If I were to pay a shop or do my own swap, I’d probably go with an LS because there is lots of parts and other support out there due to the popularity of using these V8’s in many different applications.
The 96 power train will also come out. At 238k she bleeds oil badly and will puff some blue smoke going from idle to the floor after idling for a couple minutes.
Now to your question. I’m sticking with that 96 1fz. Will do some tests to confirm the integrity of the bottom end and hopefully get away with a head refurbishment and new gaskets and seals all around.
I can’t justify the cost of a swap. I don’t drive enough to ever recoup the cost of a swap of any kind in fuel savings. With the 96 being OBD2 a turbo kit is an option if I ever want more power which I don’t foresee.
If I were to pay a shop or do my own swap, I’d probably go with an LS because there is lots of parts and other support out there due to the popularity of using these V8’s in many different applications.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
That's a lot of weight swinging off the end of an engine crane!
It's sketchy enough with just the engine
- Thread starter
- #1,024
“Sketchy” is the exact word the boys used.
Turbo support is starting to dry up around here. Hoping Torfab's new Aussie units coming in are a good alternative.
Getting a little tired of my 3-hampster-power 1FZ. Probably just spoiled by the LT1 in the other one.
- Thread starter
- #1,026
More power would be welcomed sometimes especially trying to keep speeds above 60 at higher elevations. The vast majority of the time I’m ok with what the 1fz delivers. 2nd gear is good up to 55 MPH in my experience.
Swaps and even turbo kits come at a very high price per HP above the 1fz output.
R Seq
THIS ^^^^^
I tend to agree with you, but only for pavement duties. Off road loaded and even towing off road, my 1FZ IMHO, has the torque that’s sufficient for whatever gets thrown at me. And low range cuts the difficult down to size. The auto tranny is my beef, especially when it’s steep. I know there’s TC gear sets I can get to lower the low range, but I’m not there yet.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #1,030
I always had the same thoughts. The manual puts all available power down to the ground and can be push started if the starter dies.
The problem with running a Toyota manual box is the lack of a super low first gear for rock crawling especially with large tires. An auto box lays down torque very smoothly and predictably. The torque converter helps make up for the lack of crawler worthy low gearing. When I say crawler worthy, I’m talking about a forward final drive in the 120:1 and lower ratio. This is unattainable with all Toyota hardware as far as I know.
An auto does leave a bit to be desired when it comes to using the engine as a brake for downward drops and longer descents.
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For any modern technical rock Crawling it a auto for the win !
On the road, where the auto box is frustrating is the auto down shifting at the slightest uphill or pressure on the skinny pedal. Consequentially, the cruise control rarely gets used especially when towing. But in rolling hills it would be nice to leave it in the gear you choose, instead of having the tranny down shift at will. I can somewhat compromise by slowly letting up when cresting hills. I just feel it would be so much of a better match to be totally in charge of the shifting. The OD lockout is cool when it shifts out of OD ’cause it also locks the torque converter if rpm’s are high enough. On my ‘94, the torque converter can lock in 3rd and 4th (or OD). If you listen closely, you can hear the subtle locking or unlocking of the torque converter, or you can see the rpm’s change. IIRC, it’s about a 200 rpm difference. It helps, but I still would prefer a manual.
Also, I totally get the advantage of the auto in rock crawling, like @Broski & @baldilocks mentioned. Downhills is where I miss the better engine braking with the direct engine - tranny hookup.
Also, I totally get the advantage of the auto in rock crawling, like @Broski & @baldilocks mentioned. Downhills is where I miss the better engine braking with the direct engine - tranny hookup.
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Modern automatic transmissions do everything you’re asking for.
At least my Ford tow rig can.
Not sure about modern Toyota’s
I hate the cruise control on the LandCruiser and my Tundra. Somethings Toyota waits way too long to modernize.
- Thread starter
- #1,034
What about the cruise control is it that you don’t like?Modern automatic transmissions do everything you’re asking for.
At least my Ford tow rig can.
Not sure about modern Toyota’s
I hate the cruise control on the LandCruiser and my Tundra. Somethings Toyota waits way too long to modernize.
Everything
to the point I don’t use it on either rig. There’s no way to adjust it with out it shifting gears. It speeds up going down hill and slows down going up hill.
There right out of the 80s
My 92 ford you could hit the button one time and it would speed up 1 mile an hour or hold it down to get to the desired speed just like my 2017 tow rig.
Once set it will maintain the same speed up or downhill.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Toyota’s take on anything modern is laughable. Their cc is straight garbage compared to anything modern. My 2023 XSE can’t even keep a 1-2 mph differential if I go downhill. If someone switches lanes in front of me it basically thinks I’m going to have a head on collision and beeps at me. It’s dumb.
- Thread starter
- #1,037
Sounds like you are talking about a new car and the stupid “safety” features they include at no extra charge. I guess I don’t expect the precision that others expect out of a LandCruiser that was designed in the 80’s. I just do what I have to do to adapt to the current situation, reset and resume my trajectory.
- Thread starter
- #1,038
The CC system in your Tundra should be electronic not cá me actuated like the 80. Should be a completely different set up.Everything
There’s no way to adjust it with out it shifting gears. It speeds up going down hill and slows down going up hill.
There right out of the 80s
My 92 ford you could hit the button one time and it would speed up 1 mile an hour or hold it down to get to the desired speed just like my 2017 tow rig.
Once set it will maintain the same speed up or downhill.
It should be but it’s not !!
I'm running an auto with a 224:1 final drive ratio.
