Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (4 Viewers)

[Feldrian]

Agreed on both the "too shallow" and taking it to a shop and letting them figure it out. I've set up a few 14 bolts and Dana 60s in the past which has been enough to teach me it's not any fun.

 

[baldilocks]

Agreed on both the "too shallow" and taking it to a shop and letting them figure it out. I've set up a few 14 bolts and Dana 60s in the past which has been enough to teach me it's not any fun.

So I removed the pinion race to put a shim under it in order to move the pinion in deeper but for some reason I’m unable to tap the race back in. It goes half way then locks up. I’m going to give this one more shot this morning. If it’s a no go situation I’ll take it to LandCruisers Northwest in Portland. Those guys are cool. Nothing but LandCruisers all day everyday.

 

[Feldrian]

So I removed the pinion race to put a shim under it in order to move the pinion in deeper but for some reason I’m unable to tap the race back in. It goes half way then locks up. I’m going to give this one more shot this morning. If it’s a no go situation I’ll take it to LandCruisers Northwest in Portland. Those guys are cool. Nothing but LandCruisers all day everyday.

I swear there's some voodoo involved in setting up gears. I had a friend I wheeled with years ago that worked in a race car fab shop and set up all of their gears - Watched him set up gears for me in about 45 min while drinking a beer. I've tried the same thing for 4+ hours and still never had a pattern nearly as nice.

 

[baldilocks]

I swear there's some voodoo involved in setting up gears. I had a friend I wheeled with years ago that worked in a race car fab shop and set up all of their gears - Watched him set up gears for me in about 45 min while drinking a beer. I've tried the same thing for 4+ hours and still never had a pattern nearly as nice.

Yep, a good diff guy is worth the price.

 

[Broski]

For reference here's what mine looked like when I picked it up from the pro.
I think if you do anything enough times it becomes second nature.

 

[baldilocks]

For reference here's what mine looked like when I picked it up from the pro.
I think if you do anything enough times it becomes second nature.

I’m in the garage now. As I said a couple posts ago, I was unable to tap the pinion race back in after I removed it to put a shim under it. I knocked the race out today to find that it had gotten crooked in housing and there is an eye brow if high metal almost 50% of the way around in the housing. I took out my dremel and went to work on it. I think it’s going to be ok. I’m heading to the cruiser shop in Portland here shortly.

 

[baldilocks]

I took the diff to LandCruisers NW in Portland. Super cool dudes. They said Monday. That’s impressive considering today is Friday. I want to work there when I grow up.

 

[Malleus]

Looks like pig heaven.

I wish we could get that kind of service in Charlotte. If you get any response at all, it's "I may be able to get to in in 6 months".

 

[baldilocks]

Looks like pig heaven.

I wish we could get that kind of service in Charlotte. If you get any response at all, it's "I may be able to get to in in 6 months".

These guys live and breathe Landcruisers. I brought them a box of crap and they sorted it out. We talked about it and landed on Monday. I’d send my jobs to them if possible.

 

[baldilocks]

I got the axle housing hard pointed last evening. The seal driver I picked up from Wits-End made driving the axle oil seals very easy and accurate.

Today has been spent installing the new trunnion bearings, races and the not so fun task of cleaning parts.

 

[Broski]

It’s been over a week, did you get the third back yet? Snow melting

 

[baldilocks]

It’s been over a week, did you get the third back yet? Snow melting

Yes, the snow melted quite a bit today, and only the deeper, shaded areas remain.

I talked to the cruiser shop late this afternoon. It’s together but the side adjuster nut that is particular to ARB (the middle is cut out so as to give clearance for the seal housing) is jacked up. Apparently it has been cross threaded and then the caps torqued down. Probably me. If they can’t get a nut from ARB in a couple days they will take a used oem nut and cut it for seal housing clearance. That’s not my main concern right now because that’s their job.

My right front wheel bearing was constantly coming loose even after I installed joint Fuji spindles back into early 17. The inboard bearing has spun against the spindle for some reason. I was considering two new hubs and spindles from Toyota but that’s pretty big money. At this point I may just go with an all new hub and spindle for the passenger side since that’s the only location with a problem. The hubs look to be ok but they have over 300k miles on them so….. out comes the bank card once again.

 

[Broski]

Not sure why you would want to replace the hub unless the races have spun in there seems unlikely !
Both spindles have be replaced on my reg, I got them from Cruiser Outfitters there Japanese made and said to be a Toyota equivalent at a attractive price.
Much more common for the spindle to wear then the hub IMP and in my experience.
FWIW I would replace both spindles for peace of mind, I'm assuming you putting new bearing in as well and run the hubs in less there's evidence of damage !

 

[baldilocks]

Today was a good day… I got out to the garage kind of late at 1330 because it was shower and cook breakfast day added to the normal mini Aussie run for about an hour. My dog is super fast, super smart, and super agile. Her run time is the highlight of everyday. I was joking about it being shower and cook breakfast day even though I did that.

I finished cleaning the parts as well as I see fit. I’m at the point where a knuckle is ready to go on but I felt the days activities in my youthful back so I sat down on my duff before the heater to ramble on a bit.

I had to order a spindle from Valley Hybrids - Cruiser Brothers, I paid for expedite shipping so it should be here by noon tomorrow. My front passenger wheel bearing came loose constantly. I’ve been dealing with this over five years now. Inspection discovered that the inner bearing had spun against the spindle. I don’t know why but this has been going for some years.

I’m predicting a big day for tomorrow and hoping LandCruisers NW gets back to me about my third member.

 

[baldilocks]

 

[baldilocks]

After 4.5 months my rig is back on the road.

Since I last updated this thread it was discovered by the shop that during the ring and pinion liberation event back at the Hammers in November the bearing cap and its bolts nearest the ring gear got deformed enough that that side adjuster nut didn’t want to thread in correctly. That’s why I had so much trouble with it and got frustrated. I just didn’t realize that I had damaged parts.

I then had to find another third member for the drop out portion and I decided to go with an original factory assembled unit in order to be sure the caps and all hardware were a match. This added a couple weeks to the diff build.

Testing the overhauled ARB locker.

 

[baldilocks]

I picked up a full set of Timbren active off-road bump stops for the 80 (A00515) from SD Trucks but sans all their brackets. I look forward to bouncing off these things to find out if they are as good as everyone says they are.

With a hub to uncut fender distance of just over 25.5” )7.5” from tire to fender lip) I ended up with 5.25” up travel at the frame mounted bump stop location which equates to 7.25 up at the middle of the tire tread. The shock still has an inch or so left for up travel so maybe one day I’ll cut the fenders to get that extra bit of up travel. I won’t hold my breath for that. I lost about 3/4” up travel by going from the Super Swamper trXus which has a roundish tread cross section to these Baja MTZ P3’s with their flatter more square tread cross section. At the time I was shopping tires almost two years ago there were zero trXus in 37 to be purchased. I like the trXus and will go back to them eventually.
Looks like 5.1* positive castor angle. Hub center same distance from the floor as the rear.

No photo but at ride height there is 2.75” from the axle up to the bump stop. The Timbren is 3.75” free height.

Compresses down to about 1.5”.

 

[baldilocks]

I made a couple minor changes to the hydro assist set up. The tabs on the tie rod are now welded directly to the tie rod eliminating the tube clamp/tab set up I’d been running. The limiting spacer was removed from the piston rod to allow the full 10” of steering sweep.

Knuckle ball gussets, leading arm bracket reinforcements and bump stop at ride height.

 

[Broski]

Glad you got it back together Steve!!
Now get you ass down to Utah for Cruise Moab.

 

[baldilocks]

Glad you got it back together Steve!!
Now get you ass down to Utah for Cruise Moab.

What are the dates? Is the event not sold out?