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- #241
Had to link this vacation trip to my thread.
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter baldilocks
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Had to link this vacation trip to my thread.
Had to link this vacation trip to my thread.
Wow epic doesn’t even begin to describe your trip!!!
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- #243
I put a little over 5,000 miles on the 80 in three weeks. It’s amazing that these engines last as long as they do because it has to work hard to propel a loaded pig on 37’s. I asked a lot from it on this trip and it never complained as it devoured gas fast enough to make a Prius owner cry. There’s 298k on the clock and I added only one quart of oil on this trip.
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Great read and great build. Learned a lot here. How do you like the TrXus on road? Noisy? They are one of the few 37's left in 16" rim sizing...
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- #245
Thanks. I like the trxus better than any other “aggressive” tire I’ve ever run. They stick and grab well on everything, although I’ve never run them on sand dunes. They are killer in snow. I like the tall side wall we get running a 37 on a 16” wheel because it flexes well and makes a big foot print when aired down.
They are made of a pretty soft compound so they wear faster than other tires but great traction comes at a price. The tread pattern and soft compound allow them to run very quietly down the road. Mine have about 20k miles on them and they are a little over half worn out and I’m about to re-sipe and grove them and they are noisier now than when new. If you crawl rocks and spin tires, they won’t chunk out but uneven tread block wear can happen because of the softness of the rubber. We just finished a 3600 mile road trip and honestly, I think the trxus are only slightly louder than the warn out Durtracs on my pickup.
The trxus has a bit narrower tread than most 12.5 wide mud tires so they tuck up into the 80 series wheel wells a little easier and for long road trips you can inflate them so the tire is riding mostly on the center section for less friction and better track down the road.
At this point, I plan to replace these with another set when the time comes.
They are made of a pretty soft compound so they wear faster than other tires but great traction comes at a price. The tread pattern and soft compound allow them to run very quietly down the road. Mine have about 20k miles on them and they are a little over half worn out and I’m about to re-sipe and grove them and they are noisier now than when new. If you crawl rocks and spin tires, they won’t chunk out but uneven tread block wear can happen because of the softness of the rubber. We just finished a 3600 mile road trip and honestly, I think the trxus are only slightly louder than the warn out Durtracs on my pickup.
The trxus has a bit narrower tread than most 12.5 wide mud tires so they tuck up into the 80 series wheel wells a little easier and for long road trips you can inflate them so the tire is riding mostly on the center section for less friction and better track down the road.
At this point, I plan to replace these with another set when the time comes.
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- Thread starter
- #246
The newly designed Delta Radius arm with more tie rod clearance and an additional 1 degree of castor correction. These are the 6” version. I have yet to flex out the front end so I can’t speak to there functionality. Just like Delta Vehicle System’s originally designed arm, which these replaced, beefiness, quality, fit, and finish is top notch.
The set I had been running lives on under @shocktower 80. He actually did both swaps at my house recently and reports a much better handling rig. Thanks Thomas....
g ri
The set I had been running lives on under @shocktower 80. He actually did both swaps at my house recently and reports a much better handling rig. Thanks Thomas....
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I do not do well standing around, I love doing stuff like that thank you for the other @Delta VS arms I am now a safer driver
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- #248
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- Thread starter
- #249
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- #250
When I recently removed my drivers side front fender the nut plates that Toyota put on the inside of the rocker broke loose and I had to cut the bolt heads off these two lower fender attach bolts leaving two open holes with no threads. I considered installing nutserts/rivnuts but I don’t have the install tool and wanted to do this as inexpensively as possible. I found these stainless steel nut plates at ACE. These are 8mmx1.25 and fit well once I expanded the existing holes out to 3/8”. A little sealant and some steel pop rivets to secure them to the body took all of 20 minutes.
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- #251
Looking for an excuse to add hydro assist after all the twisted and broken sector shaft posts, I decided to do an inspection. Looks like this sector shaft is either super resistant to 37’s and the Rubicon or I don’t wheel hard enough OR I know how to drive with finesse. 
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- #252
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- #253
Where is this aviation museum? You must be a aircraft mechanic by the looks of your avitar? You must have used 3/32 cherry pull rivets for the threaded inserts?
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- #255
The museum is in the Seattle area near Boeing field. Yes, I have tinkered with an airplane or two .
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- #256
So after installing the high clearance @Delta VS radius arms, which incorporate an extra degree of positive castor, my front springs kissed the inner coil bump stop at the slightest upset. No fault of Deltas; my bumps were extended 2.5” and near the spring with deficient castor angle.
I had Timbren bump stops in my cart for $215 and decided to back out and try out Daystar polysomething bump stops in 4.5” length. I run the 3.5” Daystar bump stops in the rear.
$45and three days later I’m looking at huge bump stops that will require math and few hours of floor jack trials.
I can plasma cut and I can weld but apparently I can’t measure. These awesome delta arms are longer than stock so a straight drop landed the bump stop aft of center axle by 3/8”. Bring out the drill bits!
After careful measuring (twice), the stop was positioned for battle.
I had Timbren bump stops in my cart for $215 and decided to back out and try out Daystar polysomething bump stops in 4.5” length. I run the 3.5” Daystar bump stops in the rear.
$45and three days later I’m looking at huge bump stops that will require math and few hours of floor jack trials.
I can plasma cut and I can weld but apparently I can’t measure. These awesome delta arms are longer than stock so a straight drop landed the bump stop aft of center axle by 3/8”. Bring out the drill bits!
After careful measuring (twice), the stop was positioned for battle.
Was Elvis drinking those Coors Ha Ha
Interesting on your bump stops. I'm only running 1" in front & 2" in the rear
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- #259
My neighbor
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- #260
My stock front bump bump stops were all extended 2.5” driver and 2.25” passenger (the bump stop on passenger side contacts where the housing begins to rise upward to firm the diff housing).
These Daystar bump stops are 4.5” tall and compress 2.5”under the full weight of the vehicle. With the shorter drop spacer I made and fully compressed these bump stops are actually allowing a little more max up travel than I had with the factory hard rubber frame mounted bump stops.
The Delta arms are longer than the factory arms you run so tire contact at full turn and full compression is more of an issue on my rig than yours. I could have bashed the forward lower area if the inner fender in some to allow a shorter bump stop but I’m not at that point quite yet.
I’ll see how this set works. It was a cheap solution. I contemplated simply removing the cone bump stop from inside the spring to stop the clanging and banging and just going with the stock hard rubber stop that has been on the frame for 26 years but that would have been too easy and not Mud like.......
