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- #161
Builds Rebuilding a 40 but no longer in a 1 car garage. (2 Viewers)
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- fj40
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- #163
It still needs some work, I need to practice more patience during my welding.
There is still to much warping to deal with. Plus there are some thin spots that need to be replaced.
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- #164
Taking out the weak sections and replacing them with fresh steel.
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- #165
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- #166
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- #167
Used a torch to lose some oil canning from the welding.
I will say it again Michael,
You are a patient and talented individual. I will be curious to see what your estimation is original 40 metal vs. Michael Metal when you are all done.
Do they salt roadways in your part of the world or does it have more to do with being near salt water/humidity that allows such rusting? Perhaps its the recycled mid '70s steel with minimal corrosion protection that is bound to rust no matter where in the world you are. . .
You are a patient and talented individual. I will be curious to see what your estimation is original 40 metal vs. Michael Metal when you are all done.
Do they salt roadways in your part of the world or does it have more to do with being near salt water/humidity that allows such rusting? Perhaps its the recycled mid '70s steel with minimal corrosion protection that is bound to rust no matter where in the world you are. . .
You do beautiful work! I agree, being patient enough is the biggest challenge with sheet metal. The urge to lay down just a little more metal is almost impossible to resist!
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- #170
They pave the roads with salt here as soon as the temperature drops below 7 Celsius plus we have a humid sea climate over here.
I guess the % original steel will be around 50 to 60%. However, I did get 8 m2 of sheet metal.........
The older Toyota's already had rust problems when they got off the boat in Rotterdam.
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- #171
I know, that is why I gave heat shrinking a go. It did work out better than expected.
The method to minimize warpage that I've settled on for now at least is to fit up the pieces as well as I can and then use the MIG to join them with very small spots, which pulls the panels tight together, and then use my old lunch box 110v TIG to slowly weld the seems without any filler metal.
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- #173
I just leave a small gap and fill it with the tig. With just enough power to melt the filler into the sheet metal.
I use a magnet with copper plate to back the weld and leave a nice flat back surface. Adding enough filler rod helps to keep the temperature under control.
When things got to hot heat the high spot red hot, take a small hammer and hit the hot spot hammer off dolly from outside to in. After hammering cool the spot with water or compressed air. You can see the metal tighten when cooling.
With tig you can also hit every spot you welded while it is hot and then cool it with compressed air. But that does take a while.
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yeah, copper blocks are must!
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- #175
Finished with the quarter panel for now and started with cutting out the affected parts.
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- #176
Made a template.
A bit of cutting, bending, grinding and shrinking.
A bit of cutting, bending, grinding and shrinking.
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- #177
Burnishing machine creates nice surfaces.
More thin steel taken out.
Patches in the making
More thin steel taken out.
Patches in the making
Dam nice work You are on the way to fabricating a whole new truck amazing job!!
JP
JP
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- #179
Thanks, just having fun.
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- #180
Inside rocker
