Builds Rebuild of Trusty (5 Viewers)

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Low pressure hooked up

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Started on the HP side and was very slow going

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Had to stop because the banjo fitting I got from Cummins was not for a M16. The bolt fits into the PS pump just fine but not the fitting.
I found at Summit Racing they have M16 banjo fittings that mate up to 6AN so I am hoping it will clear the radius of the pump.

I also found that the threads in the steering box need to be chased so I ordered tap and die to fix that little problem. According to my measurements with a dial caliper and conversion from inch to mm and thread gauge looks like M17 x 1.5. Should not take much to get the fitting to thread into the steering box.
 
Steering box fittings:
Feed: M16x1.5
Return:M17x1.5
 
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I pulled the FJ40 out enough to work on the tire carrier and used the front bumper and the split shackles and they worked great.

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Started stripping the hardware

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Everything removed and started on the old bumper
When I mounted the bumper about 40 years ago I found the longest bolts I could find and they of course were rusted and had to cut, grind, and chisel them off to get the bumper loose. I also forgot that the bumper was not very heavy.

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Wire wheeled the crossmember before mounting the first part

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Used the transmission jack to support the first piece that seemed to be twice and heavy as the old bumper and the jack worked great with two sleever bars to line up the bolt holes to start the bolts.

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Once all the bolts were in and started torqueing I placed a level on it to get it level before transfer punching for the 8 holes that needed to drill for the new bolts.
 
Once torqued I used the transfer punch

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Drilled all the holes by hand and most with the cordless drill until the chuck could not hold the bit. Tried to use my mag base but it quiet and needs a new cord before I drilled the first hole.

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The lower holes ended up to low to use a flat washer but was able to use a lock and get the nuts on

Got some paint and primer and painted the cross member

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Remounted with the jack again and loaded all the bolts. The bolts for the outer pads end up inside the rear gussets and are very hard to even get a wrench on but hopefully compressed the lock washers. The main 4 bolts at the receiver I used a long handled ratchet to get them torqued. Rechecked with a level with all the bolts loose and the level hardly showed any change and was still between the lines. Before I used the transfer punch I checked the distance from the top of the tubing and the rain gutter and it was the same on both sides so the suspension does not lean like stock springs.

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Started assembling

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Adjusted the bumper and the latch, mounted the tire mount and the becket

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Mounted the license light to the basket will wire later

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I found that I can mount the tire and that partial hub really worked well to get it lined up with the studs and it was no charge

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Tried to mount the winch to the bumper and it is wider then the clearance between gussets on top of the frame with the tow hooks are mounted.

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I will notch the gussets tomorrow until the winch will fit.
 
Laid out cut lines to made room for the winch.

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Used masking to tape to better define the lines

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Got the gusset cut to clear ended up having to cut all the way back to clear the motor and planetary housings.

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Installed the fair lead before bolting up the winch

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The lower bolt holes are inside the bumper and needed a gear wrench to tight up those nuts and my hands barely fit in the window to get the bolts and washer started.

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Used my transmission jack and a 2x6 so support the winch while started the bolts
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Did get the bolts threaded in with my finger tips

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Used another wrench to keep the gear wrench on the bolt

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I usually just remove those extensions to improve my approach angle. I make and adapt new mounts to the bumper so they bolt to the frame rails and incorporates the tow hooks as part of mounts.
 
All 4 bolts torqued and the clearance. The control box will have to be set up remote since it will not fit between the frame and the winch and mounting was provided. I like the fact that the wince had to be rotated 90 degrees and the control box will not be in front of the grill to block air flow.

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Clearance on the other side

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Installed the hook

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Another view of the clearance behind the winch and in front of the of frame crossmember

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I usually just remove those extensions to improve my approach angle. I make and adapt new mounts to the bumper so they bolt to the frame rails and incorporates the tow hooks as part of mounts.
i had just replaced all the hardware on the end of the frame because of the accident. I just pulled the winch out of the box for the first time last night and did not know it was going to be to wide.

It was and easy fix and was not going to take the bumper back off for something so simple.
 
The new steel replacement dash from Man A Fre was delivered so I ripped out the old dash and the support after drilling out the spot welds.

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Mounted the new dash box with 2 M5-.8 screws there are 3 holes but there is not much room at the bottom and you cant see the threaded hole and the ratchet and Allen socket get stuck by the time you get them torqued.

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I have to leave tomorrow for North Platte to work on the Generator of the Unit that we finished an outage on the HP sections so I had to clean up and use the John Deere tractor to push the RJ40 back as far as possible to park my Ram 3500 inside. I think I have it closer to the back wall then I did before the upgrades. I bought a piece made to secure the jack handle to the column but I have to open the hole so that it will slip over the diameter of the handle and not rely on ty wraps.

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I still have room to close the door and walk between the winch and the door.

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Can I buy the dash pad support parts you removed ?
 

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