Builds Rebuild of Trusty (24 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Wrong bearings, they need to be the same style as the removed originals.
They are the right bearings keep reading and you will see that the new trunnions are oversized

MEASURED THE TRUNNION FOR MAKING BUSHINGS.jpg
 
So you had adapters made to use with the sst set, right? Did you make your measurements with the bearings and races in place For the scribe mark?
 
So you had adapters made to use with the sst set, right? Did you make your measurements with the bearings and races in place For the scribe mark?
I do not have bushings yet to scribe when set up in the bearings and knuckle ball, because there is way to much slop, the material will be here the middle of the week then get it machined. I ordered the tool long before I ordered the high steer kit with the larger bearings.

I did not even try to scribe when the SST was set up in the bearings and knuckle ball. I only scribed one line and that was in the spindle and knuckle that will be assembled to that knuckle ball.

I also measured the flats on both knuckles and recorded each.
 
Received the polymer material for making the bushings

1689463569952.jpeg



3D model for the bushings
1689463714948.jpeg
 
Made a 2D drawing for the Machine Shop
1689464078926.jpeg


Completed bushings

1689464155043.jpeg


Installed the scribe in the seal pocket of the axle

1689464260581.jpeg


Bushing installed in the lower bearing and the alignment rod fit was great

1689464430141.jpeg
 
Upper bearing in the race and the bushing inserted in the bearing ID
1689464530118.jpeg



SST assembled in the knuckle ball for scribing the axle center line.

1689464664951.jpeg


Preload on the bearings. Could not find my spring gauge so used my trigger scale

1689464764249.jpeg



Measuring the A reading

1689464862205.jpeg
 
Scribed the axle center line, you can see the bottom bushing in the bearing. They worked great for the set up.

1689465024197.jpeg


Hard to hold the phone and measure at the same time but you can get the idea. I took this photo for my Grandson to get the idea of what I was doing


1689465120083.jpeg


I made a data sheet in excel to record my readings and it showed .030" shim pack for the lower trunnion and I put .028" on the bottom.

I took A and B several times and had consistent readings but was coming up with .330" for the top.

1689465353640.jpeg


Upper bearing with the bushing removed

1689465441104.jpeg


Removed the bushing from the lower bearing
1689465511977.jpeg


Lower trunnion installed with .028" shim pack. Torqued 2 bolts to 80 ft. lbs


1689465596409.jpeg
 
Installed the new studs and lock tight on the threads

1689465838499.jpeg


First ~ .100" shim pack for trial fit. Didn't trust the math

1689465971879.jpeg


Ended up using all but .008" from 3 sets of shims and have well over .300" of shim on top and have a massive amount of thrust clearance. It hangs so low that the rollers are exposed on the lower bearing. Not sure what I did wrong. But the A and B measurements are very large with a big differential between them.

Installed the steering arm and torqued the bolts to 80 ft. lbs and anymore will not have enough thread engagement and down it is not good

1689466317915.jpeg


Any ideas of what I am doing wrong would be a big help. This is the first time I have done this.
 
This morning I went out and took the short side knuckle back off and set up the knuckle alignment tool and lined up the flats this time an set the preload at 4-5 lbs.

Reassembled the bottom trunnion with the shims I had already set up yesterday at .028". Torqued the 4 bolts to 80 ft. lbs

1689541965989.jpeg


Took the reading and it made much more sense this time and went with it. The calculation was .070" shim on top but put .050" and worked my way down until I got
15 lbs of preload. There is a Low Range video one setting up Toyota knuckles that recommends the higher preload if running 35" for larger.

1689542066141.jpeg


Cleaned up the alignment tool rod and put more layout dye on it and let it dry

1689542215515.jpeg


Found the eco-seals for the inner axle seal

1689542292875.jpeg


Applied FIPG to the seal

1689542413870.jpeg


Seal installed in the short side

1689542674886.jpeg
 
Set up the alignment tool in the long side and scribed the first line with the proper preload and had the flats set to take the A measurement

1689542784052.jpeg


Removed the alignment tool from the axle ball and set inserted the scribe in the spindle

1689542930684.jpeg


Scribed line from the spindle

1689543011343.jpeg


The two lines were less then 3mm and the calculation was a -.022 so no shim was put in the bottom trunnion and is metal to metal

Worked the upper steering arm until I got 15 lbs of preload and in the process the studs and nuts were wearing and would get stuck and studs were backing out. I also found the the nuts need to say on the stud because the cone washers were popping and sending the flat washers airborne. The material of the studs seems to be soft because they would deform even hitting them with a brass hammer. I ordered a new set of 4 and will replace them when they arrive one at a time.

Applied sealant to the other inner axle seal

1689543861086.jpeg


Inner seal inserted into the long side

1689543947860.jpeg


Progress on the front axle

1689544036854.jpeg
 
I could be mistaken but you might have mounted the steering knuckle arms on the wrong side. When I read through the Marlin Crawler instructions it said the arm with two holes mounts on the passenger side. I noticed that both your arms have two holes. I then looked closer at their pictures and noted that beveled side of the arm was on the outside of vehicle.

If your directions state differently I stand corrected.
 
I could be mistaken but you might have mounted the steering knuckle arms on the wrong side. When I read through the Marlin Crawler instructions it said the arm with two holes mounts on the passenger side. I noticed that both your arms have two holes. I then looked closer at their pictures and noted that beveled side of the arm was on the outside of vehicle.

If your directions state differently I stand corrected.
There were no instructions. I put the taper toward the center line thinking if I put them the other way the tie rod would bind.

I hope I didn't get it wrong because it is a lot of work torqueing and un torqueing.

Anything I have bought from Diamond did not come with instructions.

I will look on Marlin Crawler.

I didn't find any instructions and the steering arms are upside down. I hope I don't have to re-shim to set the preload again. I spent the last 2 days torqueing and un-torqueing getting them set.

I wanted to buy there high steer kit but they are discontinued.
 
I have FJ70 tie and relay rods and the tie rods all ready have attachment points on the tie rod for the relay rod I only needed the holes for the tie rod.

I will find out when I attach the tie rod. If I have to switch them I will. I did so many evolutions setting the preload on the long side I had to order new stud kits because the fine threads were getting hot and starting to gall.
 
Well I know what I am doing next week end.
 
Went out and removed the steering arms and installed them on the right side. I replaced the studs, nuts, cone washers and put lock washers of the one side that was having problems with and used new locks on the other side that didn't need the suds replaced. Rechecked the preload and on the long side it was a little low so I took the arm back off and it was because of a small particle of dirt on the shim. Cleaned it off a reassembled and the preload was back to 15 lbs. Thanks for the good catch on the steering arms. FROR also confirmed they were wrong and the also explained why they need to be in this position. I will they would include instruction with there parts.

1690060887217.jpeg



Started packing the back side of the knuckles and here is the backing steel ready to go against the knuckle

1690061081306.jpeg


Followed up with the rubber ring, also checking I had clearance to install the bolts with a ratchet under the steering arms

1690061153856.jpeg


Closed up the knuckle packing. I put the lower bolts through the felt wiper on the lower to help hold everything in place while installing the upper backing plate, it seemed to help. As usual my size 12 is always in the photo

1690061326705.jpeg


Other side done

1690061427071.jpeg
 
Installed new steering stops and nuts on both knuckles. There is enough thread on the other side that once adjusted I will but jam nuts on the outside too.

1690061710022.jpeg



New Birfields

1690061785390.jpeg



Put some grease between the knuckle the ball

1690061870691.jpeg


1690061934914.jpeg
 
Put both Birfields into tubes

1690062038988.jpeg


The shafts are into the differential but not engaging the splines and they don't go in as easy as in the videos. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

1690062173749.jpeg
 
It's been a long time since I rebuilt my front axle. If I remember correctly, you may have to separate the axle from the birfield and install the axle into the third member first. Then install the birfield onto the axle over the lock ring.
 
The 3rd member is installed. I had my Wife wiggle the pinion flange while I was trying to get the shafts engaged in the splines.

I checked the splines of the axles to the old side gears to verify they are 30 spline, the locker is for a Toyota 9.5" LC with 30 spline side plates. I think that in differential end is dropping and is against the carrier.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom