Builds Rebuild of Trusty (8 Viewers)

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Started painting the caliper adapters first coat

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First coat on the steering arms and trunnions

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Put layout dye on the flats of the Birfields

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Stuffed everything after cleaning out the inside of the ball

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First contact check

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First pass with the die grinder bottom

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Clean out after each time grinding on top and bottom

Polishing with a flapper wheel on the bottom

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Contact check only tracking on the bottom flat

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Last check before stopping for today. It is not there yet but it is not as tight as it was before when I first started.

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I reached out to Cruiser Outfitters over the weekend I got a response this morning. They said that the housing from this vintage has to have the clearance opened up because the new Birfields are bigger then the stock shafts from a 1978. They confirmed that the grinding and polishing was the right way to open the clearance.
 
Did a little housekeeping and emptied my shop vacuum and got some of the floor cleaned up.

I put layout dye on the knuckle

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Found a high spot and would grind accordingly, rinse and repeat until the splines would engage and would turn with the differential

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Success got the short side to engage with the splines in the locker

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Removed the Birfield and cleaned up and started packing with grease and reinstalled the short side Birfield and finished packing with grease

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Didn't have a backing plate shim so I covered and zip tied a bag over the knuckle

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Working on getting clearance for the long side Birfield until the Birfield would pass the trunnions and engage with the splines in the locker

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After cleaning the knuckle and ball out greased up the inner axle seal and install the shaft and packed the knuckle with grease

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Covered up for when I can build out the hub

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Prepping the new Toyota V8 calipers for paint

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Prepped the surface and the put a gray primer coat on the calipers. The can of red top coat was solid and not good.

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Put the first coat of red on the calipers

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Cut the tack welds on the adapter shim

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First shim removed

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Ground off the tacks and cleaned the surface

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I followed the instructions and it did not show the seal and got every bolt torqued to 30 lbs and then installed the wheel hub and torqued the inner nut and saw it was not going to work well with out the seal so I pulled the hub back off

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Got everything lined back up and found out why the shim was welded on. Did not have enough hands so used a jack to support the spindel so it would not fall out of the fit.

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Reinstalled the wheel hub and set the preload and then final torque and bent the inner lock tab the outer lock tab was bent

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Gasket installed

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Hub studs installed

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HD hub installed

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Built out the other side out to the HD hub.

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Today I painted the wheel hubs from the flange to the inboard side and mounted the new rotors.

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Rotors and calipers installed
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Side view of the monster caliper

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May have to get longer wheel studs for the alloy rims

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When time to adjust the alignment will have to remove the calipers

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Today I chased the threads on all the wheel studs and one was not biting in so I took it out by hand and put in the vise and used a center punch and stippled it and then when I put it back in it held for the little torque I need to hold the alignment bars.

Removed the calipers for the alignment bars and centered the knuckles. Installed the tie rod ends finger tight to take the measurement from the bottom of the weld prep to the other weld prep.

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The LH threaded parts did not come marked so I did it on both pairs of LH nuts and bungs.

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Set up the DOM tubing after it was cut in the chop saw and ready to grind the weld prep

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Started grinding the weld prep

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Finished the weld prep and then worked on the other end

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Stamped the other nut

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Stamped the other LH bung

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The turned down end of the bungs are bigger then ID of the DOM tubing and will have to get a drill and ream to open up the tubing after I get a good mic reading

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The DOM tubing ID only needed the ID edge touched up with a die grinder and round burr bit and the bungs slid right in

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First end welded

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Left end welded


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Set up to prime


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Primed

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First coat of paint

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Today my LH M23x1.5 tap showed up so I got the LH bungs chased and then once the LH thread tie rod end was threaded in I installed the tie rod and torqued the tie rod ends.

I did not know what the torque value was so I did a search and a MUD page came up with the torque valve for M11 and M12 tie rod ends and showed 79 ft lbs for M12. These tie rod ends measured .541" which converted to 13.74 mm's. I torqued them to 85 ft lbs.

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I locked the hubs and rotated to get the alignment bars close to horizontal the unlocked them to get them closer to each other after unlocking the hubs. The hubs and locker are working as they should.

I put my welding magnets on one bar so the it would hold the end of the tape measure and adjusted the tie rod for ~.125" of toe in. The manual said the spec for for a H78-15 tire size. I will be going with as close to 35" as it can but should work to get it to an alignment shop to get the final alignment done.

The tie rod is well above the arc of the ring gear, I wont know what the clearance of the tie rod will be to the FJ80 steering box is until I have the new suspension and the steering box and get the location mocked up.

Has any one else done a 4" SUA with a high steer set up and a FJ80 steering box and had clearance issues?
 
I drove up to Belgrade Montana to the Overland Cruiser shop to pick up there kit to mate the R2.8 to a Toyota bell housing. They also had the motor mounts and the transmission crossmember ready for me also.

He took around the shop and they had a FJ40 on the hoist and showed me how to set up the plates that are welded to the frame for the crossmember and the motor mounts. They have holes in the plate to use existing bolt holes in the frame I did not even know were there and a rivet to index the location. Have the weight of the motor and transmission on the isolators get everything squared up and tack. Then pull the drive train back out and burn everything in.

I will take photos and post.
 
I drove up to Belgrade Montana to the Overland Cruiser shop to pick up there kit to mate the R2.8 to a Toyota bell housing. They also had the motor mounts and the transmission crossmember ready for me also.

He took around the shop and they had a FJ40 on the hoist and showed me how to set up the plates that are welded to the frame for the crossmember and the motor mounts. They have holes in the plate to use existing bolt holes in the frame I did not even know were there and a rivet to index the location. Have the weight of the motor and transmission on the isolators get everything squared up and tack. Then pull the drive train back out and burn everything in.

I will take photos and post.
Yeah, I’d love to see how you do that, even now that I have everything burned in.
 
Yeah, I’d love to see how you do that, even now that I have everything burned in.
I have somethings for work to do this morning and then I will go out and mount the de-massed flywheel, the hub extension and the adapter plate.
 
On Tuesday the new steering box was delivered and the Cummins R2.8

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Opening the R2.8

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Exposed the flywheel for removal

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Removed the flywheel

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Crossmember for the H55F

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The crossmember came with 2 shims, the 2 plates the weld to the frame and index to a rivet and a threaded hole did not make it into my truck are are coming by UPS.

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The frame side motor mounts that have a hole to index to an rivet or bolt hole on the frame

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Motor side mount

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De massed Cummins flywheel

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Crank extension installed and the bolts torqued to 89 ft. lbs. You have to have a crows foot to torque them because a socket and ratchet will not fit between the flanges. The Toyota pilot bearing was already installed.

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I used my tractor to hang a com a long from to lift just the back end enough to install the adapter plate. The bolts were all torqued to 22 ft. lbs. I had new bell housing bolts from Toyota and thread pitch was wrong so will have to source some more.
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