Rear Vent Windows- worthwhile? (1 Viewer)

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Apr 2, 2008
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Location
Victoria, BC
I've got a 74. My hard top needs body work. Some PO also put a sun roof in the top... and it has always been a PITA.

I've found a 81 top which is in pieces. I know how to make it work with my hatch.

Do you guys think the rear kick out vents are a worthwhile upgrade?:bounce:

I did a search but only saw a couple of opinions and though it would be also good to know if there is a downside to them.:doh:
 
Roll bar issue

If you have a factory roll bar for a 74, you may not be able to open the side vent windows easily. The latch will hit on the roll bar. The radius of the roll bar supports changed with the addition of the side vent windows.
 
...Do you guys think the rear kick out vents are a worthwhile upgrade?

Ever ride in the back of a 40 with a hardtop & no AC on a +90F day? My kids have and they say it sucks.

I don't have these on my 75 but wish I did. Anything for some airflow would be better than nothing.
 
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lobo loco is correct about the rollbar. I have a 77 top on my 75, and on one side I can not open the window without unscrewing the latch. The other side clears for some reason, but just barely. I could probably shave the latch or tweak the rollbar to make it clear, but I rarely open them so I haven't done anything to resolve the problem.

I actually think it looks cleaner without the vents, the vents always look like a potential spot for leaks and it looks really easy to pry open. I wouldn't go through the trouble of swapping hard tops just to get vents, but if your top is shot and you find one cheap I wouldn't let it stop me either. I don't have any passengers sitting in the back, so I can't comment on how much different it makes in airflow. If I had a rear hatch instead of ambi doors, I'd probably be more inclined to leave the hatch open the open the vents.
 
Latch interferance

Does the latch interfere with the curve, horizontal, or vertical?

The reason I ask is I built a "family" cage by adding a stock hoop across the rear of the truck and tieing it into the six point cage using horizontal stringers where the original rear sections attach to the main hoop. (sorry no pictures)
 
Does the latch interfere with the curve, horizontal, or vertical?

The reason I ask is I built a "family" cage by adding a stock hoop across the rear of the truck and tieing it into the six point cage using horizontal stringers where the original rear sections attach to the main hoop. (sorry no pictures)

I'll try to answer this as best I can without pics....The newer roll bars 77+ have a more squared-off curve (i.e shorter radius) than the older pre-77s. This allows the catch to clear on a horizontal plane.

As for functionality, I can't see that they help much one way or the other...but then I never ride in the back. Heck, you're in Victoria BC...it never gets all that HOT there...You should try driving a 40 in 110F+ weather like we have in CA. :p

Here's a pic of my 40 ...not the best pic, but you can see the latch in the upper right hand corner and how the support bar clears the latch
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Thanks, the vertical bar is now tight to the back of the truck. From the picture I can see it won't be a problem.

I know that it doesn't get as hot here. When it's 30+ (90+) degrees here and humid some extra ventilation would be nice if the top isn't off. My 350 also throws off quite a bit of heat through the floor boards.

When it's rainy, and it does rain here, it could also help to keep the windows clear.
 
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I installed these windows in to the top on my 68back in the early eighties. I tried to open the hatch over the spare tire but that just brought fumes in. One of the best up grades I have done over the years. In AZ it pretty hot and this help move the air thru the cruiser. My 68 has a top from a 73. The 71 and earlier hard tops used a different weather stripping and adding the parts from 77 and later hard top wouldn't have been as easy.
 
Ever ride in the back of a 40 with a hardtop & no AC on a +90F day? My kids have and they say it sucks.

I don't have these on my 75 but wish I did. Anything for some airflow would be better than nothing.

I have them, and I like them. They do help vent some of the hot air with the windows down in the front. And I also leave the vent windows open in the mornings as long as it isn't raining, and with the front windows up, it doesn't really negatively affect the temp inside the cab. Plus, I think they look cool. My $0.02.
 
Roll bar issue
If you have a factory roll bar for a 74, you may not be able to open the side vent windows easily. The latch will hit on the roll bar. The radius of the roll bar supports changed with the addition of the side vent windows.

oh crap. I just restored a 78 hardtop to put on a 74 and didn't think there would be any issues!!
 
Family Cage No roll Bar issue.

I've got a Family Six point cage so there will be no roll bar issue. Thanks for the info on a potential problem though.:cheers:
 
I've taken the plunge. Got the complete top for $200.

It has a couple of rusty spots... But in comparison to the old top it's rust free.

I'll post some pics once I've taken some.
 
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Pictures


The good, the bad, and ...:cheers:


The top will need some work but a lot less than my old one.:clap:
 
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Lights

I gather that a couple of owners back they had a home-built tub and brake lights in the hardtop.:bang:

I'll most likely weld in a couple of patches.


Although, I could add a couple of fans.... to reduce aerodynamic drag ;)
 
Window openings

I know from previous experience that the opening is the same for the window in old and newer tops.

I removed the bar and put in an older style window. Just in case anyone is looking to put these sliders in a newer top.:clap:
 
I've cleaned up the fiberglass top, welded in some patches, rebuilt the bottom 1" or so of the back posts, primed, painted, and reinstalled the windows.

Time to remove the old top, paint the header bar, paint the hatch, and take some pictures of the finished product. A 1974 40 with a 1981 top and a hatch. I'll document what I've done to make work :D
 

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