Rear Sill replacement shop Colorado northern front range?

[Biscuit]

This morning I noticed that I could see daylight coming though the rear sill, so it's finally time to get it fixed.

But, I'm looking for someone that could do the repair for me. My current situation doesn't have the location, tools, skills, or time for me to try and tackle it. I'd be OK with the 2" square tube replacement since the barn doors I have had the spring loaded pin replaced with a gate latch and it doesn't line up with the factory hole in the sill for the pin.

Is there a shop or person that is recommended on the front range? I'm in Boulder, but will happily consider anywhere from Colorado Springs to Fort Collins.

Obligatory picture of the rust through hole and the whole rear sill. The rust is likely worse than it appears since 20 years ago I used a bunch of marine grade epoxy to fill in the rust that was present then.

 

[White Stripe]

Proffitts is probably the best option

 

[Firemedic831]

Just this morning you noticed this

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

The Rust Doctor. Grand Junction, CO

Jason Burge - (970) 822-2805

 

[Biscuit]

Just this morning you noticed this

The daylight part, enough crud must have finally come loose to see though that part of the sill.

The rust I've known about since I got the 40 back in 2002.

 

[devo]

All mentioned are on the west slope. I’d be interested in a shop in NoCo if there is one?

 

[FJ404345]

Lucky you are just on time to repair it !

 

[devo]

Just wondering, why not drive it around to the many, many body shops that are up here in the North? You would be able to supply all of the body parts needed and a good body shop would simply cut and paste.

 

[3_puppies]

@Kelly

Just wondering, why not drive it around to the many, many body shops that are up here in the North? You would be able to supply all of the body parts needed and a good body shop would simply cut and paste.

it's the actual body work, not just unbolting panels and replacing them
anybody worth going to will be backed up 6 months+ if not more

if you want to travel
@kelly saad is a guy to use

 

[Biscuit]

Traveling might be an option. Depending on when shops have availability and I have time, could make for a nice long fall drive.

 

[Living in the Past]

I'd be OK with the 2" square tube replacement since the barn doors I have had the spring loaded pin replaced with a gate latch and it doesn't line up with the factory hole in the sill for the pin.

I'm curious who is making rear sills and how close to OEM they are? The rear sill has radius at the ends and just replacing with square tubing it not a permanent fix. Particularly true if running a hard top. How does the latch between the barn doors fit? I have a couple of early 1960s FJ40s in need of a rear sill replacement. The weight of the hard is pushing the barn doors apart at the top. The center latch is keeping from spreading further apart. Originally the rear sill up to 1/79 the floor was folded over and ran half way down the sill sandwiched between the rear sill and the cap in the center. In most cases it it's moisture trapped inside this area that causes the rust. Where the floor meets the sill only has a few stitch welds and the gaps in between is where dirt and moisture get in and trapped. Even worse with salt. From the factory the sill is formed to have a few drain channels below where the floor stops. Not sure how well that actually worked. Would be interesting if a complete weld where the floor and sill meet would be a solution. I know my 68 and 70 FJ40 both had spare tanks with skid plates that limited moisture from getting into that area and both are rust free. The three layers on the rear sill made it very strong. But by design it is the weak link as far as rust on the FJ40.

 

[Biscuit]

That is a good point about hard top loading spreading the tub.

For square tubing, I did see this thread from 2012 with a really nice square tube that also fabbed up some radius corners. rusty rear sill and frame - fixed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rusty-rear-sill-and-frame-fixed.611401/

Of course, now I'm starting to wonder what it would take to do similar. I can get pieces cut to make the top and bottom of the radius corners. Because in a perfect world, I'd end up with a rear sill that could have both passenger and driver side plate carrier latches. (Yes I'd also need to figure out the extra reinforcement bracket for the upper hinge mount.)

 

[Unimogguy]

Another vote for the Rust Doctor. Several of the guys in RS club have used them and they’re very happy with the results.

 

[3_puppies]

I'm curious who is making rear sills and how close to OEM they are? The rear sill has radius at the ends and just replacing with square tubing it not a permanent fix. Particularly true if running a hard top. How does the latch between the barn doors fit? I have a couple of early 1960s FJ40s in need of a rear sill replacement. The weight of the hard is pushing the barn doors apart at the top. The center latch is keeping from spreading further apart. Originally the rear sill up to 1/79 the floor was folded over and ran half way down the sill sandwiched between the rear sill and the cap in the center. In most cases it it's moisture trapped inside this area that causes the rust. Where the floor meets the sill only has a few stitch welds and the gaps in between is where dirt and moisture get in and trapped. Even worse with salt. From the factory the sill is formed to have a few drain channels below where the floor stops. Not sure how well that actually worked. Would be interesting if a complete weld where the floor and sill meet would be a solution. I know my 68 and 70 FJ40 both had spare tanks with skid plates that limited moisture from getting into that area and both are rust free. The three layers on the rear sill made it very strong. But by design it is the weak link as far as rust on the FJ40.

the sill I have from @Awl_TEQ is a work of art.
I've had it for close to 10 years now, still waiting to install it
I think he is still selling stuff but it is thru 4 wheel in Edmonton??

 

[65swb45]

Sub’d

 

[Living in the Past]

the sill I have from @Awl_TEQ is a work of art.
I've had it for close to 10 years now, still waiting to install it
I think he is still selling stuff but it is thru 4 wheel in Edmonton??

Is the sill made with the offset half down in the middle between the doors? Then the drain channels on the lower half? Never heard of anyone making a sill to exact OEM specs. Regardless I know TEQ_Awl's sill is going to as good as anything being made today. I have one of his FJ45LP-B tailgates. Can't tell difference from the original.

 

[Graniteone]

That is a lot of cancerous rust on the rear end. Likely the tip of the iceberg and you may not end up needing to replace just the sill as you need good metal to weld it into. It is a slippery slope. I wish you luck!

 

[3_puppies]

Is the sill made with the offset half down in the middle between the doors? Then the drain channels on the lower half? Never heard of anyone making a sill to exact OEM specs. Regardless I know TEQ_Awl's sill is going to as good as anything being made today. I have one of his FJ45LP-B tailgates. Can't tell difference from the original.

I'll get some pics when I get home tonight

 

[Biscuit]

That is a lot of cancerous rust on the rear end. Likely the tip of the iceberg and you may not end up needing to replace just the sill as you need good metal to weld it into. It is a slippery slope. I wish you luck!

It does risk being a slippery slope. Mainly to the rear wheel wells, but at least that rust hasn't been progressing.

 

[3_puppies]

I'll get some pics when I get home tonight

here are some pics