Rear shock mount bending

[jwfowler]

Im no expert and don't run guards due to increase of the size and probability of being hit, but why dont more guys redo the mounting post further up the bracket? More travel that youd need to account for other places but seems like you can clear 2-3 inches getting rid of the lower mount.

I think ive seen maybe 2 posts about doing that but the lower mount is definitely a low hanging weak point.

Ive put in perry parts extended bumps and have plenty of room to move the mount on my shock shaft, just need to swap my brake lines then I'll be doing this.

 

[linuxgod]

Im no expert and don't run guards due to increase of the size and probability of being hit, but why dont more guys redo the mounting post further up the bracket? More travel that youd need to account for other places but seems like you can clear 2-3 inches getting rid of the lower mount.

I think ive seen maybe 2 posts about doing that but the lower mount is definitely a low hanging weak point.

Ive put in perry parts extended bumps and have plenty of room to move the mount on my shock shaft, just need to swap my brake lines then I'll be doing this.

I’d like to do that. Caveat is you need to extend breathers, brake lines, make sure your shocks don’t bottom out, make sure your springs don’t fall out especially on the drivers side, etc.

I wish the shock mounts were just on the rear of the axle with the bolt facing backwards…

 

[UPR LC]

Yup, all of this. Terrible aftermarket parts design on multiple fronts, and at the core, its poor engineering or lack thereof.

This picture tells the story. Not only are the BB guards reducing clearance and making it more likely to hit things, it's also multiplying it and translating the force into a downward bending moment on the lower shock mounting stud. Which is already weaker than the stock config due to OME not fitting an appropriate sleeve as the stock setup had.

View attachment 4127865

I'll add that the lower offset wheels tend to expose the lower shock mounts more. This is where full fat tires might help in shielding the lower mounts. Perhaps best insurance is mod with more tire (lift) that actually gets things out of harms way than playing contact sports.

View attachment 4127887

View attachment 4127883

If that is the failure mode, and looking at it more I agree with you that it is likely the case, a second lower through bolt holding the guard to the axle bracket (as long as it is in a tight hole in the axle bracket) would help eliminate the pivot action of the original design.

 

[linuxgod]

If that is the failure mode, and looking at it more I agree with you that it is likely the case, a second lower through bolt holding the guard to the axle bracket (as long as it is in a tight hole in the axle bracket) would help eliminate the pivot action of the original design.

I agree, if the force causing this is the front of the guard being driven into a rock and pushing the entire guard inward toward the mount and down then a second bolt lower in the shock mount would certainly reduce the likelihood of it pivoting. The shaft protector could still be bent into the shock though and to that end if you have the BP51 shaft guards there's not really a need for that vertical section unless you're trying to protect from a very angled rock, so if I had these off I'd probably want to cut that section off the guard.

I am interested how Jerry ended up bending his mount without a guard attached.

 

[UPR LC]

Rear Shock Spacers | E&E Off-Road

If you need to limit your bump travel to fit larger tires, these will allow you to regain your full travel by allowing additional droop travel. Includes the following: Anodized Shock spacers for both sides Grade 10.9 mounting hardware You must do or supply the following: Limit your bump travel...

www.ee-offroading.com

Just saw this on E&E Offroad's webpage, thought it would fit in this thread (was mention of raising shock mount).

 

[jwfowler]

Rear Shock Spacers | E&E Off-Road

If you need to limit your bump travel to fit larger tires, these will allow you to regain your full travel by allowing additional droop travel. Includes the following: Anodized Shock spacers for both sides Grade 10.9 mounting hardware You must do or supply the following: Limit your bump travel...

www.ee-offroading.com

View attachment 4128374

Just saw this on E&E Offroad's webpage, thought it would fit in this thread (was mention of raising shock mount).

Yeah I have these and will be my short term fix for more travel. Just procrastinating swapping brake lines etc

 

[turbo8]

Rear Shock Spacers | E&E Off-Road

If you need to limit your bump travel to fit larger tires, these will allow you to regain your full travel by allowing additional droop travel. Includes the following: Anodized Shock spacers for both sides Grade 10.9 mounting hardware You must do or supply the following: Limit your bump travel...

www.ee-offroading.com

View attachment 4128374

Just saw this on E&E Offroad's webpage, thought it would fit in this thread (was mention of raising shock mount).

Thanks for the mention.

Keep in mind these are for OEM type shocks. Aftermarket ,larger bodied, inverted shocks may not clear the brackets at bottom out. They also generally offer more droop travel which could cause more issues.

Now I'm curious, I might have to check clearance on my 3.0" external bypass shocks, since my rear suspension is halfway disassembled.

 

[kcjaz]

Anyone know an ARB part number or the bushing dimensions for the rear BP51 shock lower mount? I can’t find anything on the interweb. I tried calling ARB but after 25 minutes on hold, I gave up. I’ll try again Monday. Will call Slee too.

I wonder if I could replace the OEM bushing with spherical bearings like they use in the front. Even if this is possible, with my bent pins Installing any kind of bushing with a metal sleeve will be difficult as I don’t think I’ll ever get then perfectly straight again. Getting the shocks off as they are will be hard enough. I think I’ll have to take them off by unbolting them from the top first. I just don’t want to do that until I have new bushings in hand.

 

[linuxgod]

Anyone know an ARB part number or the bushing dimensions for the rear BP51 shock lower mount? I can’t find anything on the interweb. I tried calling ARB but after 25 minutes on hold, I gave up. I’ll try again Monday. Will call Slee too.

I wonder if I could replace the OEM bushing with spherical bearings like they use in the front. Even if this is possible, with my bent pins Installing any kind of bushing with a metal sleeve will be difficult as I don’t think I’ll ever get then perfectly straight again. Getting the shocks off as they are will be hard enough. I think I’ll have to take them off by unbolting them from the top first. I just don’t want to do that until I have new bushings in hand.

I could’ve sworn I’ve seen just the bushings available as a “rebuild kit”. Or maybe it’s just the front spherical I’ve seen.

Unless the bushings are identically sized to the front I think you’ll struggle to find the exact size you need. Honestly it would probably be easier to find a metal sleeve to convert new bushings to the Toyota style as at least that’s just a piece of metal.

Maybe email 4x4shocktech.com, since they do rebuilds and should have the best info for you about options and whatever parts you need

 

[UPR LC]

Here is a similar design as being discussed with 2 bolts and what appears to keep the shock bolt separate from the guard. This is not a LC product, but just showing as an example.

2022+ TUNDRA SHOCK GUARDS SKIDS (PAIR)

NEW! 2022+ Tundra Rear Shock Guards Skids Protect your low hanging rear shocks for severe use off road These only fit with the stock axel mounts. Does not fit with the new Archive Garage Shock Relocation Kit. Kit Includes: -(2) Shock skids, 3/16" HSLA steel (30% stronger and more gall resistant...

archivegarage.com

 

[kcjaz]

Here is a similar design as being discussed with 2 bolts and what appears to keep the shock bolt separate from the guard. This is not a LC product, but just showing as an example.

2022+ TUNDRA SHOCK GUARDS SKIDS (PAIR)

NEW! 2022+ Tundra Rear Shock Guards Skids Protect your low hanging rear shocks for severe use off road These only fit with the stock axel mounts. Does not fit with the new Archive Garage Shock Relocation Kit. Kit Includes: -(2) Shock skids, 3/16" HSLA steel (30% stronger and more gall resistant...

archivegarage.com

Yeah, That is pretty much what is in my head as far as a concept.

On a related front, I’m preparing to pull the shocks and attempt to straighten the mount pins. I’m a bit worried I’ll damage or break the pins so I need to come up with a game plan if that happens. If I successfully am to straighten the pins, I’ll just put the shocks back for now but the lower bushings are damaged. I want to have replacement bushings in hand before Take this stuff apart. The lower bushings are turning out to be unobtainiaum. ARB gave me the part number (VM50010016SP) but wont sell them to me (WTF?). They said I had to go to a retailer. Retailers don’t have the bushings in stock except for one place I found but they only have the parts because they also do BP51 rebuilds and they don’t want to break up their rebuild kits. Cruiser Outfitters is the only place that was willing/able to order the parts but its going to be a few weeks. $20 bushings that render $600 shocks (each) useless and you can’t easily get the parts. Great.

 

[linuxgod]

Yeah, That is pretty much what is in my head as far as a concept.

On a related front, I’m preparing to pull the shocks and attempt to straighten the mount pins. I’m a bit worried I’ll damage or break the pins so I need to come up with a game plan if that happens. If I successfully am to straighten the pins, I’ll just put the shocks back for now but the lower bushings are damaged. I want to have replacement bushings in hand before Take this stuff apart. The lower bushings are turning out to be unobtainiaum. ARB gave me the part number (VM50010016SP) but wont sell them to me (WTF?). They said I had to go to a retailer. Retailers don’t have the bushings in stock except for one place I found but they only have the parts because they also do BP51 rebuilds and they don’t want to break up their rebuild kits. Cruiser Outfitters is the only place that was willing/able to order the parts but its going to be a few weeks. $20 bushings that render $600 shocks (each) useless and you can’t easily get the parts. Great.

Summit says they have them available to ship today:

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[kcjaz]

Summit says they have them available to ship today:

Pardon Our Interruption

Now you tell me…. They do have 2 of them in their Nevada store.

 

[linuxgod]

Now you tell me…. They do have 2 of them in their Nevada store.

For $40 if the actually have them in stock I’d order them even if cruiser outfitters have a set on backorder for you. I bet if you don’t use them you’ll easily find someone else around here who could.

 

[kcjaz]

Getting back to this project today. My bushings should be here Wednesday. I should’ve got the second set from Summit cuz I’d have the bushings in hand now, but I delayed and someone else snag them. Hopefully someone here.

I’ve pulled one shock and that lower mounting pin is really bent. The washer doesn’t even wanna come off.

The bottom washer on the upper bushing is jacked in the hole has been elongated in what I think was a lip worn away and a bit mangled.

Luckily, I have a couple of what I think are OEM washers with the lip or they might be ARB washers as I remember I had to replace the uppers with OEM washers with no lip to avoid chirping.

Unfortunately, the shock bucket hole is also a bit ovaled.

I’m just going to replace the washers and hope for the best. Getting in there to weld in some material to fix the hole would be a challenge.

Next, I’m going to try heating the pin and bending it back. A little nervous about that but I don’t think there is any real choice here. I’ve cold bent it once already plus this is a lot of bend.

 

[turbo8]

Getting back to this project today. My bushings should be here Wednesday. I should’ve got the second set from Summit cuz I’d have the bushings in hand now, but I delayed and someone else snag them. Hopefully someone here.

I’ve pulled one shock and that lower mounting pin is really bent. The washer doesn’t even wanna come off.
View attachment 4138695
The bottom washer on the upper bushing is jacked in the hole has been elongated in what I think was a lip worn away and a bit mangled.


View attachment 4138696

View attachment 4138697
Luckily, I have a couple of what I think are OEM washers with the lip or they might be ARB washers as I remember I had to replace the uppers with OEM washers with no lip to avoid chirping.

View attachment 4138707

Unfortunately, the shock bucket hole is also a bit ovaled.
View attachment 4138708
I’m just going to replace the washers and hope for the best. Getting in there to weld in some material to fix the hole would be a challenge.

Next, I’m going to try heating the pin and bending it back. A little nervous about that but I don’t think there is any real choice here. I’ve cold bent it once already plus this is a lot of bend.

Man that one is really bent. I would be tempted to cut or drill the pin out and use a 3/4" grade 8 bolt in its place.

You should also pull the springs and cycle the suspension and make sure the shocks are not binding up. things like a bent shock shaft, seized internal piston, or pinched reservoir line could cause shock mount damage.

 

[kcjaz]

Man that one is really bent. I would be tempted to cut or drill the pin out and use a 3/4" grade 8 bolt in its place.

That’s plan B. That will be an its own special kind of sh*t though as that mounting pin extends through the back side of the shock mount. It’s welded in 3 places.

 

[kcjaz]

#%$! Que Plan B

In hindsight, I should’ve tried to heat the entire length of pin. It broke where the internal threads end. I put most the heat at the far end and about where the crack initiated. I also probably should’ve cut the hex head off the bolt so there was nothing torquing on it and I should have put a lot more heat into it. That whole pen and where it’s welded to the mounting bracket needs to be cherry red. I’ll try that on the other side for the sake of science, but now I’m gonna be cutting grinding and drilling.

 

[UPR LC]

#%$! Que Plan B
View attachment 4138786
In hindsight, I should’ve tried to heat the entire length of pin. It broke where the internal threads end. I put most the heat at the far end and about where the crack initiated. I also probably should’ve cut the hex head off the bolt so there was nothing torquing on it and I should have put a lot more heat into it. That whole pen and where it’s welded to the mounting bracket needs to be cherry red. I’ll try that on the other side for the sake of science, but now I’m gonna be cutting grinding and drilling.
View attachment 4138786

If you are drilling it out and can weld, might be a good time to install a bracket that allows double shear of a new bolt and fully captures the shock bushing.

 

[kcjaz]

I’m thinking now is the time to figure out raising the mount. There are already two promising looking holes in the mounting bracket.

If this works it would add a nice amount of more droop and I could cut off the bottoms of the bracket for more clearance. I need to make sure the shock won’t bottom out and potentially extend brake lines and breather tube. Anything else I need to check?