Rear Lower Control Arms Mod - 80 series (6 Viewers)

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LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
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Location
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The RLCA (Rear Lower Control Arm) mod was respectably stolen from CSC’s own Mountain Cruiser.

1.75 x .188 (1.36ID) Dom tubing seamless
Factory RLCA on a ’96 are 1.34 x .170 seamed tubing
Factory length was maintained
8 rosettes welds per RLCA
Cut factory RLCA in half -remeber you loose ~1/8 when cutting
I held the sleeve back 1” from the bushing holder
Wrapped the bushing with a wet rag to keep the bushing from cooking
Stitched welded tubing together to keep temps under control
Cleaned and smoothed the welded rosettes
Primed and painted Kylon satin black
Reinstalled

In the past I have used angle iron with excellent results but I liked this new approached.
You pick up ~3/8” clearance over angle - Wooo
Total tubing thickness ~3/8” – strong enough for what I do
Ended up 1lb addition weight per RLCA over 1½ x ¼ angle iron
The ability to slide sideways easier when hung up – still up for debate as a pro or con
Cost maybe 5x over 1½ x ¼ angle iron
Most important - I like the look better

Material Cost – 4’ Dom seamless tubing $50 shipped

Contact Mountain Cruiser (Tony) if you would like to pay to have this mod done.

RLCA1.JPG

RLCA2.JPG

RLCA3.JPG
 
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They Do look good...did you ever go underneath and check them after yesterdays run? You mentioned that you may of "kissed" one in that rocky (and incredibly brushy) wash yesterday.
 
Nice. Definitely better than angle. Might just have to do than one myself. So, how did you get that itty bitty piece of tube over that bushing?
 
Not sure why you didn't run the tube all the way to the bushing eye. Seems like you left a weak point there. I'm sure it's way stronger than it was, and you probably won't bend them, but you were there anyway. I don't know much about metal composition, but to me it seems that the weld at the end actually weakens the original steel tube. Am I wrong there?
 
Not sure why you didn't run the tube all the way to the bushing eye. Seems like you left a weak point there. I'm sure it's way stronger than it was, and you probably won't bend them, but you were there anyway. I don't know much about metal composition, but to me it seems that the weld at the end actually weakens the original steel tube. Am I wrong there?

The stress is in and out, the only time stress would be at that point would be upward. If it ever bends or breaks at that point I have a lot bigger problems to deal with. I dont feel the technical weakness if any will ever come up.
 
I had just discussed the angle iron mod with Mountain Cruiser the other day.
 
Tony did mine for me.
 
Those look great Phil, I like the look of em. :cool: I like how you left the old tubing hanging out a little to mimic a rod end. I'm going to make a jig so they can be reproduced without a truck or donor arm and lengthened a little if needed. I really don't see these ever bending. :cheers:
 
awesome work! will definitely do this & extend it a bit for the taller lift. nice work... looks much beefier than the chopsticks that are the oem links. i doubt theres much stress at the joints. if its sleeved pretty much end to end, its just that much stronger...
 
Dang, I just threw my old arms away recently. When I upgraded to the MAF arms I kept the old ones for several months and finally threw them away. Wouldve been good "cores" to work with...kinda like Fan clutches with Tools.


By the way, Ill bring Saddletramps old fan clutch to the meet Friday for you Tools...
 
Dang, I just threw my old arms away recently. When I upgraded to the MAF arms I kept the old ones for several months and finally threw them away. Wouldve been good "cores" to work with...kinda like Fan clutches with Tools.


By the way, Ill bring Saddletramps old fan clutch to the meet Friday for you Tools...

You threw LC parts away:crybaby::mad:
 
Looks good. I still need to do mine. Will be saving this for a reference. :beer:
 
Not sure why you didn't run the tube all the way to the bushing eye. Seems like you left a weak point there. I'm sure it's way stronger than it was, and you probably won't bend them, but you were there anyway. I don't know much about metal composition, but to me it seems that the weld at the end actually weakens the original steel tube. Am I wrong there?

I think because it's such a short section it's likely o.k.

Looks good.

If I was to do it, I'd probably go all the way up to the bushing eye and let the bushing cook, since mine are over do for a replacement anyway. At least at one end, the other end I'd put in a johny joint or the like not only for flex, but to have some adjustability for pinion angle. Would also make them slightly shorter than stock to bring my rear tire a little forward to center it in the wheel opening w/ the lift I'm running, course, have to shorten the tops too then.

Naw, that's way too much work, I'll just copy yours :)
 
I think because it's such a short section it's likely o.k.

Looks good.

If I was to do it, I'd probably go all the way up to the bushing eye and let the bushing cook, since mine are over do for a replacement anyway. At least at one end, the other end I'd put in a johny joint or the like not only for flex, but to have some adjustability for pinion angle. Would also make them slightly shorter than stock to bring my rear tire a little forward to center it in the wheel opening w/ the lift I'm running, course, have to shorten the tops too then.

Naw, that's way too much work, I'll just copy yours :)


Yours should be plenty sturdy after you tempered them.:hillbilly:
 
(as seen on CSC)

My 95 has the early, more masculine, RLCAs... :flipoff2:
Is this mod right for me?
 

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