Rear heater hoses discontinued (1 Viewer)

[orangefj45]

Most peoe never pay attention to these. But I have seen a couple of them rupture, usually due to them soaking in oil or grease ( from a u-joint ) for too long. That'll soften the hoses and eventually they'll let go, just like the short section of 5/8" heater hose going to the oil cooler below the motor mount ( go check yours!!!!! ).

Anyway, Toyota has discontinued the short 90deg hose from the pipe(s) to the rear heater. There are none in stock in the country. I tried Japan also. They are gone.

Gates makes one part # 28460

Or you can get one from autozone # B80393

Here to help

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Thanks George! for the info

 

[Spook50]

Thanks for the heads-up George! All my hoses (even the shorty on the bottom of the water pump) are just a few years old since I completely drained & flushed my system and replaced every single hose in the process with OEM Toyota. Hopefully I'll get another 15-20 years out of 'em before needing to replace

 

[SteveH]

Update - just checked on this stuff:

Autozone #D80994 is about half the price ($11.49) of the #D80993 (mentioned by Georg above - now $17.49) and longer. My Autozone stocks it, so it must be a common hose for something.

The Gates hose is currently $8.54 on Amazon, too.

 

[Spike Strip]

FWIW, I used Gates # 19025 and fit perfectly. I think it was listed as the cross from the Toyota # to Gates on their website application tool.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Thanks Georg. Mike

 

[60Works]

This hose needed trimmed down a bit but worked fine.

 

[88Retired62]

What was the OEM part # for the 90 deg. Heater hose?

 

[OGBeno]

87245-14500

 

[8B2 Fiend]

A ‘91 use the same hoses ya think? They look similar.

 

[88Retired62]

Beno... the rear heater schematics I’m viewing show a “U” shape rear heater hose for the FJ62 and an “L” shape 90 deg. angle for the FJ60. (1.) Both schematics show the same part numbers of 87255E & 87256A...can you clarify?
(2.) Also, would Part #87245/89279 fit as a replacement rear heater hose?
Thanx in advance for your input.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I deleted the rear heater in my 62 long ago. I now have that silly U shaped steel pipe that does nothing and it's plugged with straight hose and shock bolts stuck in there. (shown in the bottom left below the yellow arrow)

I would love the hose shown in this picture circled in the bottom right. Other people say the the caps (also circled in this picture) are bad and blow out. They look efficient and better than my hose with bolts in them as the moment. When I say bolts I mean the smooth part with no threads is being clamped.

 

[DFXR]

FWIW, I used Gates # 19025 and fit perfectly. I think it was listed as the cross from the Toyota # to Gates on their website application tool.

Mine are finally leaking, and I am going to replace with the Gates hoses referenced by @Spike Strip .

The old hoses and clamps are nasty and will need to be cut off. Since I can't pinch the hard line ahead of these, how much coolant should I expect to lose in this little ordeal? Just what's between the heater valve on the firewall and the rear heater?

 

[joebattle1]

Mine are finally leaking, and I am going to replace with the Gates hoses referenced by @Spike Strip .

The old hoses and clamps are nasty and will need to be cut off. Since I can't pinch the hard line ahead of these, how much coolant should I expect to lose in this little ordeal? Just what's between the heater valve on the firewall and the rear heater?

View attachment 2143026

Dave, do you have the Harbor Freight hose clamp pliers? They also sell pinch pliers so you can pinch a hose above it and not lose much fluid. I have both if you want to borrow. Those pliers are the best 15 bucks ever spent.

 

[lcwizard]

Luckily in Az our heaters work by a window crank but if they start discontinuing AC parts there may be a significant
increase in suicide

 

[DFXR]

Dave, do you have the Harbor Freight hose clamp pliers? They also sell pinch pliers so you can pinch a hose above it and not lose much fluid. I have both if you want to borrow. Those pliers are the best 15 bucks ever spent.

Thanks Joe. I may hit you up. It’s just that the nearest upstream/downstream soft lines are all the way up at the firewall. I was thinking that if the rear heat was off an the valve closed I could just count on losing what’s in the the two hard lines running under the truck and not much else. But it wouldn’t hurt to pinch the soft lines at the firewall anyway. I’ll let you know!

 

[SteveH]

Beware - the copper lines under the truck are very, very soft, and it's hard to remove those rear heater elbow hoses without distorting the lines. Be super careful in how you remove the crusty old hoses. Mine were like new after 30 years and I wish I had not replaced them, in spite of their age.

 

[Freewheel]

Yep, mine are original too, and I'm conflicted about touching them. In our climate, Toyota rubber seems to last forever, and I give those hoses a squeeze and a twist every year to see how they are doing. Fine so far....

I've replaced every other hose in the truck, mainly just 'cause I thought it would be a good idea after 30 years, but after fighting with getting the old hoses off the bronze pipes in the engine bay, and realizing the hoses were actually OK, I've left the rear ones as a bit of an experiment.

 

[Skeet]

Gates 28461 x2 for the rear heat elbows on RockAuto. OEM hose clamps.
Cut the old hose with a razor and slide them off. The Gates slides right on with a little lube.
I believe I trimmed an inch off the length of one end of the new Gates.

 

[DFXR]

Gates 28461 x2 for the rear heat elbows on RockAuto. OEM hose clamps.
Cut the old hose with a razor and slide them off. The Gates slides right on with a little lube.
I believe I trimmed an inch off the length of one end of the new Gates.

That’s the plan. That area is very original, crusty, and fragile.