Rear e-locker wiring question (1 Viewer)

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Bossman

Bossman

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Nov 2, 2004
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Okay, I have searched until my eyes crossed without finding something on point. I need to wire up the rear elocker in a 93-94 but have a section of the wiring harness missing. I have the wiring from the locker actuator and sensor up through the D's floor grommet in front of the D's rear when arch. I have the locker ECM and all of that associated wiring. Dash switch, indicator lights, front locker,etc. I just need some info to figure out how to build a harness to connect the wiring from the D's rear wheel arch to the drivers front foot well. That's where I get lost. Is there a write-up on how to build this 5 wire harness and where it connects up front?
 
image-920510015.jpg

This is where I get stumped. From the drivers rear quarter under the jack to where? Guessing along the rear crossmember and up the passenger side to the ECM somehow...???

image-920510015.jpg
 
WarDamnEagle said:
This thread should help:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches.html
Click to expand...

Yes, that is one of the threads I have been reading and it has been somewhat helpful. My situation is a little different as I have complete wiring from the rear elocker to the D's rear quarter panes and from the ECM, switch, and dash lights but nothing to connect the two. There is some portion of the rear harness that ties this all together but I don't have that piece.

I should say that this is all on an 80 that is getting cut up for a buggy and I (in my stupidity) pulled some of the wiring that I did not think I would be needing. :(
 
you get 10 pigtails for that connector and run 5 wires along the existing harness and plug them in to the connectors at each end.

You should see 5 open spots and the numbers will be the same on each end.
 
Much easier to put an air actuator on it and have a much more reliable rear locker than the electric motor :) there's a guy here that has made them in the US :)
 
landtank said:
you get 10 pigtails for that connector and run 5 wires along the existing harness and plug them in to the connectors at each end.

You should see 5 open spots and the numbers will be the same on each end.
Click to expand...

Getting somewhere... I figured I would have to make a harness from this connector to ??? I am assuming to the drivers side kick panel? Also, there are no markings on this connector so this could be challenging. :)
 
Kjartanbj said:
Much easier to put an air actuator on it and have a much more reliable rear locker than the electric motor :) there's a guy here that has made them in the US :)
Click to expand...

You are probably right but its not my call. I am working on someone else's rig so I gotta figure this out.
 
Bossman said:
Getting somewhere... I figured I would have to make a harness from this connector to ??? I am assuming to the drivers side kick panel? Also, there are no markings on this connector so this could be challenging. :)
Click to expand...

there are markings on the connector. It will be a 5 digit number and any competent dealer can look up the part number for the pig tails.

You are just installing 5 wires that are part of that harness if it had lockers from the factory. So the plug at the other end of that harness has 5 open spots just as the one you have pictured.

Your EWD will show pin locations in the diagrams of the connectors.
 
I will look fir markings again in the morning. They may be under the foam glued to the outside of the plug. There are, however no markings indicating the PIN numbers which was what I was referring to.

I'm a bit lost on the "10 pigtails". I have read several posts referring to the 5 wire harness one would need to make to wire in the rear elocker into a non-locked truck. Am I missing something that would keep this approach from working in this situation? I understand where the five wire harness would connect on the locker end but where does it need to terminate on the other end?
 
Yes but the wire color codes do not match those in your thread. Guessing because this is a 93-94? Example: there is no solid white wire at the ECU as stated in your thread.

If I can run a homemade harness from the actuator harness to the ECU harness and still get the rotary switch and dash lights to work I would be golden!
 
Got that file to open on the desktop and feel like I'm getting closer. Thanks. Still have a few questions though. The file seems to indicate that the wire colors I am looking for at the ECM are green, green/B (is the blue or black?), green/yellow, and green/L (what color is L?).

The wire colors on the diagram are the same at the diff end but my colors on the truck are green, green/blue, green/black, green/yellow, and white/black of course is the ground. Should I just match these colors at the ECM harness?

Thanks again for the help!
 
MoGas said:
Look here.
Click to expand...

Great write up Dave and thanks for pitching in to help! One question.. Your write up does not seem to detail which wire color goes to which of the five vacant pin positions in the 20 pin plug in the drivers kick panel. Are the wire colors on the other side of the plug a match for the colors at the rear diff locker harness? Guessing that is the case and will check for myself in the morning but curiosity has me in its grip tonight. ;)

Thanks again for the help!
 
I'll have to look at my wiring diagram tomorrow.
It's not my write up, by the way. It was a guy named Kevin, Boston Mangler.
 
Bossman said:
Got that file to open on the desktop and feel like I'm getting closer. Thanks. Still have a few questions though. The file seems to indicate that the wire colors I am looking for at the ECM are green, green/B (is the blue or black?), green/yellow, and green/L (what color is L?).

The wire colors on the diagram are the same at the diff end but my colors on the truck are green, green/blue, green/black, green/yellow, and white/black of course is the ground. Should I just match these colors at the ECM harness?

Thanks again for the help!
Click to expand...

L is Toyota's designation for blue. Pretty sure all other letters are obvious (e.g. B = black, y = yellow, etc.).

Yes you should just match those colors. The wiring diagram in my post is for 95 through 97. The earlier models had slightly different wiring. The wire colors flow through though per the wiring diagram. I honestly think you have everything you need in that diagram. Don't worry if one or two of the wire colors are slightly different as long as they are the same at the ECU and the elocker.
 
L= blue. That helps a bunch. Seriously guys, thanks a lot for the help and Merry Christmas!
 
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