Awesome write up! Actually had to manually pull the actuator rod back this weekend because mine wouldn't disengage. When I cracked the 3 bolts loose, water came out. Noticed the large o ring was stretched out pretty big, couldn't even get it to seat back properly. Will be doing this rebuild very soon thanks to your post!
So I followed your video and thought everything was going to be perfect upon reassembly, just to discover it was not lol. I took it all back off and pulled motor housing off to find all 4 magnets had let go. My question is, what is a good epoxy to use for re attaching them? Any tips for this job would be appreciated as well! Thank you!
So I followed your video and thought everything was going to be perfect upon reassembly, just to discover it was not lol. I took it all back off and pulled motor housing off to find all 4 magnets had let go. My question is, what is a good epoxy to use for re attaching them? Any tips for this job would be appreciated as well! Thank you!
I have had great success using hot glue.
I will heat up the magnet housing so the glue does not instantly solidify. This gives me time to align the magnets as desired.
I have learned that applying hot glue to the bottom edge of the magnet first works best. Put the glue on the magnet or housing. Then push in the magnet and let it set. The goal is to have it sit flush against the housing on the curved large side. If you end up with offset this may cause magnet to come in contact with the rotor. This will prevent the motor from working.
Once the glue sets, apply more on each edge. Both sides and top.
If the hot glue ever fails, I will use JB weld.
Here is a trick to get the brushes to stay out of the way while you are dropping the rotor back into the bearing. Wrap the copper wires around the brush holders and then slide them off after the rotor is almost in. The springs are behind the brushes and they keep tension on the copper wires.
View attachment 2716956Here is a trick to get the brushes to stay out of the way while you are dropping the rotor back into the bearing. Wrap the copper wires around the brush holders and then slide them off after the rotor is almost in. The springs are behind the brushes and they keep tension on the copper wires.
Duuuuude @A2ShedsJackson I love you. Trick worked great. I had to wrap them around the other corner to get them to hold tight, otherwise the blocks would be sticking too far out. Works perfect. Now to get this thing all clocked right and ready for re-install....
I thought people might be interested in my Canadian rebuild. Before and after photos! Just kidding - every bolt had to extracted and all four screws for the engine compartment had to be ground off. Note that I had to replace this as the mounting surface had broken. When I install this, I'll be adding a sealer around the edge as well to prevent water and grit from getting into that surface.
The piece that I am impressed with is despite the 25+ years of abuse the interior doesn't look bad. The contacts look brand new, the gears still have the grease, that magnets are in place. I'll clean it out to at least have a working spare and look at getting the case welded.