rear e-locker actuator rebuild pics (1 Viewer)

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mmuthart said:
I went through this rebuild last year but I had my entire 3rd member on the bench. That made it a no brainer because I could test the actuation and visual verify that everything was working correctly before reinstalling. Sorry, I know not much help...
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I am just curious how you could do that on a bench?, I could see if you had the whole 3rd member on the ground under your 80(so you could have the actuator harness plugged in to cycle it with the rotary knob on the dash, unless you made a long jumper harness from your 80 to your workbench? :grinpimp:
 
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Excellent write up about taking it apart and putting it back together.
But as others said, the main issue is the alignment of the parts.

I have my rear old one as spare and waiting for rebuild. I have a new one on the truck as I didn't feel comfortable taking it a part and putting it back together. Now with this thread and RT's I think I will tackle this one soon and have a rear spare ready.
 
FourBy4Toy said:
I am just curious how you could do that on a bench?, I could see if you had the whole 3rd member on the ground under your 80(so you could have the actuator harness plugged in to cycle it with the rotary knob on the dash, unless you made a long jumper harness from your 80 to your workbench? :grinpimp:
Click to expand...

You just have to get 12volts to the right pins. I was actually using a 12voltguy harness. Here's a vid.: YouTube - ELockerMovie
 
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mmuthart said:
Okay, my thoughts are coming together here post by post. Here's the thread I started looking for the same help you are: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...ledge-elocker-assembly-internal-workings.html

Post #11 is what got me going on the right track. Then the measurements in the already mentioned thread (https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/17701-rear-locking-dif-assembly-help.html#post172256) were the slam dunk.
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Thats what I was looking for, as I cussed underneath my 80 :), its good you recalled that, I searched, but was not lucky, this will be good for somebody who is in the same boat as I was this eve!
 
I done this, but when I pulled the armature out, the magnets came also out.

One last think, just read Ravin's withup on the gear timing, let me go do that now :)
 
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I just rebuilt my actuator and it was in a horrible state. Rusted solid and full of sand. Anyways, I had to replace the bearing for the armature and in trying to get the armature out I broke the plastic tip on the gear end of it. I had to take the allen plug out to hammer out the armature. My queston is when it all went back together, I noticed the armature had some play along it's axis. I had set the allen plug to a depth where the brushes would be riding on the same copper portion of the shaft where it was previously. When trying to install the big gear I noticed that armatur would shift from side to side a little. It did not have anything to hold it in place other than the plug on the end. I adjusted the plug to snug up the armature, but now I think the brushes may not be riding on the copper portion like it should. Anybody have any input on this? I am going to take off the cap again, but would like to know what everybody thinks about the shaft moving along its long axis. It seems that the armature would shift up or down depending on which way it was turning.

By the way the replacement bearing is a standard double shielded skateboard wheel bearing.
 
And to show how tough these actuators can be..... this one was brought back from the dead:

actuator4.jpg


actuator3.jpg


actuator2.jpg


It ended up like this, working well although very noisy in operation.
IMG_8158.jpg
 
Great write up. Will help a lot of people
 
this is driving me insane..does anyone have a part number for the rear diff lock switch? yellow arrow in first picture :confused:
 
At your favorite pars store, order a backup light switch for a 2000, Taco with a 5spd. Have installed several BECK/ARNLEY #2011788, fits, works perfectly and rockauto has them for $11.40.
 
bringing up an old post. recently got a new oem actuator and found the shaft wasn't where it needed to be to install the shift fork bolt, but figured it was a great time to get a pic of where the gears are oriented in a brand new motor
20170221_172027.jpg
 
Just adding my thanks for this thread! And the ones at Rear e-locker does not engage and Rear Locking Dif Assembly Help. My rebuild ended up taking a lot more than the 3 hours estimated, more like 8 for two of us, but that's because my gear shaft (?) was stuck in the cover plate and we didn't realize it was supposed to spin freely. We wasted hours trying to set the shaft length when the final gear was not turning.

Putting back together was easy once we figured out (1) lock the locker by hand with the locker on the bench, (2) move the driven gear / spring to the locked position (easiest using the truck electronics without installing the locker), then (3) take the locker apart without rotating the driven gear and set the shaft to 2-7/8" out from the bearing shoulder (not the flat face).
 
I realize I am digging up an old thread, but I thought this might be worth bringing up. In reference to post 3 and 4 in this thread I think the final drive gear may be shown in the wrong orientation. My gear fell off during disassembly and left me questioning the correct orientation. This view shows the opposite of the direction given in post 3 and 4. Also, post 30 (crusty actuator taken apart) matches the drawing below.

1586179224992.png
1586179711697.png
 
I think you're saying that the nubbin, chamfer, whatever should be facing the large gear, and not pointing away from it. @clownmidget shows it the other way around. I agree with you, when I took mine off I noted the orientation and the nubbin was facing the large gear.
 
Agree, stepped side of small gear facing the large gear appears to be correct orientation.
 
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