Rear Disc Brake Conversion MAF vs. SOR vs. JTO

[Tapage]

Is this the one?
FJ-40+ Land Cruiser

yes this one ..

 

[lcwizard]

true, but if the price is the same why not get the better one. If you found a Scout and an FJ60 both in good condition, each priced at 4000.00, which would you buy?

How much difference do you honestly think that the premium rotors make in a rear application FJ60?


BTW, there is nothing about a cross drilled/slotted rotor in a cruiser that is a good idea.

 

[Mace]

Depends on if the po of the cruiser drilled 50,000 holes on the body to "prevent rust"



And actually, I have a fondness for scouts.. Nothing like a truck you can hear rust

 

[Pighead]

Those slots & holes just pick up mud and gravel...I'm with Mace on this one.

 

[Elbert]

yea the modfied rotors don't mean anything to me (slotted/drilled/ waxed or whatever) you are talking about a 4wd sled ...not a race car.

Still say a good 4wheel disk setup is the $hit, not only for its performance characteristics, but also ease of maintenance.

 

[lcwizard]

I agree, cross drilled are not beneficial but the quality of DBA products is superior to the chinese rotors.
i like to get a few thousand miles before they warp. the heat treated rotors they offer ( not these ) are the only rotor I can get 80,000 on my dodge cummins.
I worry about a rotor like the cheap brembo that you can buy into at 16.00 each.

 

[AlexJet]

I agree, cross drilled are not beneficial but the quality of DBA products is superior to the chinese rotors.
i like to get a few thousand miles before they warp. the heat treated rotors they offer ( not these ) are the only rotor I can get 80,000 on my dodge cummins.
I worry about a rotor like the cheap brembo that you can buy into at 16.00 each.

MAF And SOR Rotors are $120 & $90 each, Calipers are $200 a pair

 

[lehiguy]

MAF And SOR Rotors are $120 & $90 each, Calipers are $200 a pair

That is an insane price for that caliper. O'Reilly's sells the rotors for less than $23 (not machined for the Toyota pilot of course), the calipers are $14.00.

 

[AlexJet]

That is an insane price for that caliper. O'Reilly's sells the rotors for less than $23 (not machined for the Toyota pilot of course), the calipers are $14.00.

I just rebuild my OEM Toyota front calipers, cost me $150 for rebuilt + $60 for a set of new pads.

 

[ntsqd]

snippage......
Race cars don't even drill rotors much anymore... 'cept maybe Porche.

t

Porsche only does it for the posers. They know better, but marketing prevails over just about everything.

I think most use '88 Chevy Malibu (Chevy S10) brake Calipers and '88 1/2 ton Chevy pick-up (Silverado I think) Rotors.

The std. "Metric" caliper with a 2.5" piston that uses the FMSI D154 pads. Those that Lehi warns about have a 2-15/16" piston and use the FMSI D52 pads.

Where you can potentially go wrong with either caliper is in getting some of the latest model applications for them. Those have a high piston retraction function built into them. Great for pulling the pads off the rotors and reducing rolling friction but absolutely horrible for pedal travel with a normal master cylinder.

Even still, I think the "metric" calipers have too large of a piston in them. Yeah, you can tune them to work with a proportioning valve, but it would be better if the brake balance were closer so that the p-valve were only marginally needed for extreme situations rather than being absolutely necessary for normal driving.

 

[Max.Powerzz]

So did you do the rear discs yet? How does it do with towing?

 

[AlexJet]

So did you do the rear discs yet? How does it do with towing?

I bought a kit from TSM (brackets, rotors, calipers with pads, SS flex lines, hardware). It sitting on the shelf in my garage. Currently the weather a bit cold and snowy outside and my garage is not heated, plus I'm waiting on new set of Alcan springs for my Cruiser. I think I'll do all the work on suspension/wheels/brakes at once as soon as it warms up a bit. Looking for the beginning of April.

 

[Elbert]

who is TSM?

 

[AlexJet]

who is TSM?

http://www.ajswbdsgn.com/TSM/2491.html
Everything is brand new, not a GM rebuild components.
Brackets+Rotors+Hardware (p/n: 2491) $270
Calipers with Pads non parking (p/n: 3100) $120
Stainless Steel flex lines from the calipers to the "T" (p/n: 3705) $50
TOTAL: $440

 

[drtyfun]

Forgive the ignorance but do Discs provide better stopping for towing applications? Or not so much?
If not, why then do a good number of people use or consider this conversion?

 

[drtyfun]

Forgive the ignorance but do discs provide better stopping for towing applications?
If not then why do a good number of people use or consider this conversion?
Thanks, looking to learn.

 

[drtyfun]

OOOOOPPS. did I do that? Short term memory damage.

 

[gregnash]

And actually, I have a fondness for scouts.. Nothing like a truck you can hear rust

Same here... best quote from my buddy that drove one during high school..
Buddy: "I LOVE THIS THING!! It's a tank, can take out a 12" round tree trunk without a problem. And best of all, THE GAS MILEAGE!!" Me: "Gas Mileage? Really?"
Buddy: "Yeah, it gets the same gas mileage, uphill, downhill, 4x4, 4x2, doesn't matter!!!"
Me: "Really? What's that?" (thinking it will actually be good)
Buddy: "ISHT!!!"
Me: "LOL.. and is there a numeric value behind ISHT?!"
Buddy: "To low to quantify. Just trust me on that."

 

[lehiguy]

Porsche only does it for the posers. They know better, but marketing prevails over just about everything.


The std. "Metric" caliper with a 2.5" piston that uses the FMSI D154 pads. Those that Lehi warns about have a 2-15/16" piston and use the FMSI D52 pads.

Where you can potentially go wrong with either caliper is in getting some of the latest model applications for them. Those have a high piston retraction function built into them. Great for pulling the pads off the rotors and reducing rolling friction but absolutely horrible for pedal travel with a normal master cylinder.

Even still, I think the "metric" calipers have too large of a piston in them. Yeah, you can tune them to work with a proportioning valve, but it would be better if the brake balance were closer so that the p-valve were only marginally needed for extreme situations rather than being absolutely necessary for normal driving.

You're right on the money. I switched to the 1" bore MC from a T-100 and used the larger front calipers. That make for a sweet combination with the smaller GM calipers, no pumping, strong, progressive feel. I have my proportioning valve open all the way, so I think it would work just fine without it.

 

[Waterboy]

Sorry to hi-jack...

You're right on the money. I switched to the 1" bore MC from a T-100 and used the larger front calipers. That make for a sweet combination with the smaller GM calipers, no pumping, strong, progressive feel. I have my proportioning valve open all the way, so I think it would work just fine without it.

What booster did you use for your setup? The one from the T-100?