Rear control arms....which ones? (1 Viewer)

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I have read plenty(and am done) but can't really come up with a great answer(for myself) on which rear upper and lower control arms to get.

The original bushings are cracking and making chirping noises when I hit certain bumps, so its time to do something. Replaced the rear sway bar bits a month ago, still have to do the fronts.

there are Metal Tech, Slee, SPC and probably a few more.

I don't wheel my 100(but its lifted, with ARB/warn etc and pretty heavy) but thats not to say I don't mind an upgrade to something stronger for the same cost as OEM.

I like the Metal Tech arm's but really don't need any adjustment(but I gather they can be set to stock length)

My concerns are, road noise, other noises from the Johnny Joints and the poly bushings and longevity issues, aka......I don't want to be rebuilding the joints and or/bushings every year or something

any help to steer me in the right direction would be great
 
I have the MT ones and those Johnny Joints do get to knocking if you don't grease em. If you don't need the adjustment or articulation, I would stay away from these.
 
I bought MT's with a 4th of July discount. My blown bushings were causing some crazy "power steer". I have had them 4 months now and no complaints.
 
Why not just swap the cracking bushings for oem new? If you want maximum life from joints go with oem bushings. If you just want new arms get these 80/100 Series Severe Duty Rear Lower Control Arms for stock height. But I would stay away from heims and johnny joints if you are wanting to toss them on and forget about them for another 10+ years. Even high quality heims squeak after getting in the mud/water and most pro drivers use them once and replace them so they aren't really meant to last for a long time. JJs do similar stuff and then you have to rebuild them when a good set of bushings will outlast them by far.
 
Contact Jason (@reevesci )at TrailTailor- he makes them.

If you set the poly bushes up properly ( correct process for initial greasing) they dont make any noise.
 
very helpful, I am not looking for more noises or maintenance, so the Heim's and JJ are out. I have poly bushing on all my leaf sprung Cruisers and have had zero issues with them(10-15+ years), I do lube them yearly(ish)

I like the landtank arms(but he only has lowers), for some reason I thought we could not get new OEM bushing for the rear arms on the 100's.....if so I may just replace the bushing on my arms, but may not save much over buying new OEM arms once I add the labor to redo the OEM bushings.

The "upgrade" inside of me loves those Landtank arms......
 
very helpful, I am not looking for more noises or maintenance, so the Heim's and JJ are out. I have poly bushing on all my leaf sprung Cruisers and have had zero issues with them(10-15+ years), I do lube them yearly(ish)

I like the landtank arms(but he only has lowers), for some reason I thought we could not get new OEM bushing for the rear arms on the 100's.....if so I may just replace the bushing on my arms, but may not save much over buying new OEM arms once I add the labor to redo the OEM bushings.

The "upgrade" inside of me loves those Landtank arms......

Rear lowers are supposed to be 80/100
 
I have the MT ones and those Johnny Joints do get to knocking if you don't grease em. If you don't need the adjustment or articulation, I would stay away from these.
I agree. I’m trying to track down a clunk when starting out from a stop. It appears it could be my MT rear control arms.
 
If you don't want JJ's or Heims then go with OPOR or Slee (in-house or SPC; they have both) fixed length control arms:

SPC HD Rear Lower Control Arms (SPC-25955) - $250/pair

Slee Offroad HD Rear Lower Control Arms (SOF1249) - $295/pair

OPOR Offset Rear Lower Control Arms (OPOR-UZJ-44025) - $255/pair

or stick with OEM:

OEM Rear Lower Control Arms (48720-60040) - $176.86
 
I went with metal tech because I was getting knocking and clunking from worn bushings, and one control arm was bent. The new ones are way beefier than OEM, offset design less likely to catch a rock, and no issues with noise so far ( about a year of hard use including 30 days of over landing). I spoke to John metal tech, and he gave me lots of details that were not included in May sparse documentation. For example, he recommended that I fill the bushings with grease, and coat the bushings inside and out, even before installation. Also, back off the fastening bolts before greasing with the zerk, because the bushing material does not yield like rubber ones do.
 
I agree. I’m trying to track down a clunk when starting out from a stop. It appears it could be my MT rear control arms.
I have noticed the same, but haven’t put any effort into looking in to
It yet.
 
I have noticed the same, but haven’t put any effort into looking in to
It yet.
I’ve removed my MT uppers and replaced with OEM to see if the noise disappears. So far it’s finr but time will tell if this is a real fix.
 
I agree. I’m trying to track down a clunk when starting out from a stop. It appears it could be my MT rear control arms.
Check all the jam nuts that fasten the JJ to the control arm. If its come loose it will cause some slop in the threads and a clunk when you stop-accelerate.
 
think I am going to go with the Landtank/Witt's End arms with OEM bushings

do they require enlarging frame mount bolt holes? If I understand correctly, they use 80 series bushings which use a different size bolt than the 100.
 
I have the MT uppers and lowers, been great so far. Plus, they are local here in the PDX area. Great group of folks at MT, if any of you have problems, reach out to them, i am sure they can come up with a solution.
 
Mark has been to my house, I know he is good people :)

but I really am not looking for a more maintenance or a harsher ride, or I would go with MT

I have the MT uppers and lowers, been great so far. Plus, they are local here in the PDX area. Great group of folks at MT, if any of you have problems, reach out to them, i am sure they can come up with a solution.
 
think I am going to go with the Landtank/Witt's End arms with OEM bushings

do they require enlarging frame mount bolt holes? If I understand correctly, they use 80 series bushings which use a different size bolt than the 100.

Slee has them or I could machine some up if you have a little time.
 

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