rear cargo area water leak

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I've been trying to trace a water leak in the rear cargo area with not much luck. I think it must be the rear side window (above the fuel filler).
I just finished lifting up the carpet in the cargo area, and it was quite damp around the wheel well in that area, with a large portion of the underlay going into the trash.
The foot of the jack where it's mounted in the stock location is quite rusty, but no visible signs of leaks.
I'm thinking of just taking out all the carpet, in the back half anyways, and perhaps rhino lining the interior. I know it's not a fix, but at least there would be no more damp, and possibly moldy carpet.
I did have to unplug the rear passenger doors the other day, they both had a fair bit of water sloshing around after some heavy monsoons we had recently.
The sunroof appears to be draining alright though.
 
Mine leaks too, I think it's from the old, shrunken window gasket. I'm not aware of any way to fix it besides getting a brand new window gasket and I don't think they are available.
 
Say it ain't so. My slide windows are leaking too. I was planning on replacing all of the rubber when I repaint mine soon! Hopefully someone on Mud knows where these gaskets can be acquired.
 
There are rubber flaps under the rear window banana vent to allow air to escape. Yours may be damaged, missing. or stuck open letting water n.
 
I fixed my rear cargo/slider window leak by removing the cargo area interior panels which allowed me to carefully remove the exterior molding (quarter belt molding) located right under the windows. I then cleaned off the rotten gaskets from the holes in the body (located at the clips of the molding) and applied silicon to the holes and the clips on the molding and reattached. that stopped my rear leak. I then painted and oiled my rusty jack.
also check out this thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/61911-water-leak-passenger-side-rear.html
 
Agree with all posts, mine was mostly from the plastic vents behind the windows. Need to remove them and correct dried out gasket with silicone or ? The sliding window drain was also clogged, and the belt molding clip hole mini gaskets were dryed up and leaking.
 
CDan at American Toyota sells all the rubber window gaskets. I replaced the left rear window gasket last fall due to leak, although it didn't completely fix the problem. When I removed the plastic vent cover behind the window a clip on the plastic broke so I ordered that from CDan as well. No more leaks.
I am getting ready to order both front door gaskets (inside and out) from CDan cause I get a whistling noise from the passenger door when at highway speeds and my windows rattle horribly when partially raised/lowered.
The rubber on these rigs just gets worn and compressed over time and they don't seal like they used to. I am amazed they have held up as good as they have for 14+ year old rigs!

Enigma, to remove the plastic vent cover you have to remove the upper plastic cowling on the D-pillar to get to the small nut holding the bottom of the vent cover in place. remove the nut and then slide the vent cover down, pull out slightly then straight up to unclasp it from the plastic clips. If you try to pull it straight off after removing the bolt you may break the clip detents on the back like I did!
 
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Do you recall what the CDan smart shopper price is on the window gasket?

IIRC the vents are around $80 each if you break one, but I could be way off.
 
I've been trying to trace a water leak in the rear cargo area with not much luck. I think it must be the rear side window (above the fuel filler).
I just finished lifting up the carpet in the cargo area, and it was quite damp around the wheel well in that area, with a large portion of the underlay going into the trash.
The foot of the jack where it's mounted in the stock location is quite rusty, but no visible signs of leaks.
My :princess: LX450 had exactly the same problem, wet carpet and wet at the foot of the jack. The solution was removing the skinny piece of black trim outside just on the below the side window. I pub a small blob of silicone on each of the fasteners and put it back in place. No more leak, no more damp carpet.

For good measure, I took out the jack holder, drilled a hole in the bottom reinstalled it. If it were to leak again, it would not drain onto the carpet.
 
I had the same issues. I addressed the sliding widow trim. Didn't help.

I installed the new vent piece. Problem solved.
 
back door weatherstrip

Traced my leak to the back door weatherstrip.

LandCrusher80
 
Good afternoon all. I found some moist carpet in the cargo area of my 80 this past weekend. I removed the interior panels and found where the water had been getting in(qtr. moulding on both rear sliding windows. I had sitting water in the bottom of both rear fenders. I dried them out and saw a very small amount of surface rust had started. I plan to take care of the rust with some Eastwood rust converter & rust encapsulator before I replace the sliding window parts. I ordered new rear louvres/vents, new quarter molding strips, and new weatherstrips for both LH and RH sides.

I've also ordered a urethane based caulk made by JET to help seal the qtr moulding when I put the new ones on, as I read somewhere it doesn't lead to rust on the body. I've read about 4 or 5 threads on this subject so I can be as prepared as possible before I attempt it. I also checked under the "runners" and it looks like my aluminum window frame is in good shape despite the accumulated road salt and oxidation that has built up. My question is: after I get my qtr moulding unclipped from under the windows, what is the best way to take the windows/weatherstripping/window frame out of the vehicle so I can scrub all the gunk out the sliders, etc.? Now please shower me with knowledge, thank you!
 
Good afternoon all. I found some moist carpet in the cargo area of my 80 this past weekend. I removed the interior panels and found where the water had been getting in(qtr. moulding on both rear sliding windows. I had sitting water in the bottom of both rear fenders. I dried them out and saw a very small amount of surface rust had started. I plan to take care of the rust with some Eastwood rust converter & rust encapsulator before I replace the sliding window parts. I ordered new rear louvres/vents, new quarter molding strips, and new weatherstrips for both LH and RH sides.

I've also ordered a urethane based caulk made by JET to help seal the qtr moulding when I put the new ones on, as I read somewhere it doesn't lead to rust on the body. I've read about 4 or 5 threads on this subject so I can be as prepared as possible before I attempt it. I also checked under the "runners" and it looks like my aluminum window frame is in good shape despite the accumulated road salt and oxidation that has built up. My question is: after I get my qtr moulding unclipped from under the windows, what is the best way to take the windows/weatherstripping/window frame out of the vehicle so I can scrub all the gunk out the sliders, etc.? Now please shower me with knowledge, thank you!
Shameless bump! Can anyone offer guidance on this. Much appreciated
 
I can't help with what you asked. However, I had water getting as well. My problem was a missing screw in the factory roof rack. Just something else to look for.
 
I can't help with what you asked. However, I had water getting as well. My problem was a missing screw in the factory roof rack. Just something else to look for.
I traced the leak to the clip holes where the qtr moulding attaches. I also read the roof rack can leak so I may proactively assess that too. Thanks for the response.
 

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