Water leak

[jcwhitty]

I have a 94 FJ 80, and have developed a rather severe water leak in the vicinity of the left rear window, and am assuming that the leak originates from the window seal. Living in the Pacific NW, this can be "stinky" to say the least. Has anyone else experienced the same problem, and can verify the source and solution, which I assume requires having the window seal removed and replaced.

Thanks, John.

 

[AuburnFJsexy]

The rear sliding windows are known for leaking....look in the classified section and see if anyone is selling their rear windows from a parted out 80.

 

[jcwhitty]

Nick, is it the seal that needs replacing, or do you need to replace the entire window

John.

 

[TLCnoob]

If you're talking about the sliding rears, read on. If not, can't help with the rear passenger windows.

Leaks around there are usually caused by a leaky:

Quarter Belt moulding: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_FZJ80L-GNPEKA_7552.html?hl=75672

OR

Quarter vent duct assembly: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_FZJ80L-GNPEKA_6155.html?hl=62940B

Mine was the latter, and after a bit of silicone sealant around the duct assembly...all dry.

The quarter belt can be replaced or sealed with silicone around the mounting clips/holes.

HTH

 

[nicholas]

If you're talking about the sliding rears, read on. If not, can't help with the rear passenger windows.

Leaks around there are usually caused by a leaky:

Quarter Belt moulding: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_FZJ80L-GNPEKA_7552.html?hl=75672

OR

Quarter vent duct assembly: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_FZJ80L-GNPEKA_6155.html?hl=62940B

Mine was the latter, and after a bit of silicone sealant around the duct assembly...all dry.

The quarter belt can be replaced or sealed with silicone around the mounting clips/holes.

HTH

Was this a very difficult job to do? I need to fix mine because I have a leak too. It has even caused some rust where the factory cell phone antenna mounts.



Also, some people have mentioned that silicone is a rust inducer in some of the factory roof rack removal threads. I wonder if that is really true.

 

[TLCnoob]

Nicholas,

Neither is hard to do. The quarter belt molding just pops off, the rest becomes obvious after you do that.

The vent fix involves removing one nut from the inside through a hole in the D pillar and 2 pressure clips on the outside. One side popped off well, the clips on the other side broke on me. After that's off, get those 2 philips head screws to remove the piece with little rubber flaps. Between the rubber flap piece and the duct that runs up inside the D pillar is where the foam had become compressed and useless. I cleaned up all those contact areas, added a heavy bead of silicone, and buttoned it all back up.

20 minutes for the first side, 5 for the 2nd.

Don't know about the silicone/rust issue.

 

[96r50]

Nicholas,

Neither is hard to do. The quarter belt molding just pops off, the rest becomes obvious after you do that.

The vent fix involves removing one nut from the inside through a hole in the D pillar and 2 pressure clips on the outside. One side popped off well, the clips on the other side broke on me. After that's off, get those 2 philips head screws to remove the piece with little rubber flaps. Between the rubber flap piece and the duct that runs up inside the D pillar is where the foam had become compressed and useless. I cleaned up all those contact areas, added a heavy bead of silicone, and buttoned it all back up.

20 minutes for the first side, 5 for the 2nd.

Don't know about the silicone/rust issue.

Awesome, this is what I needed to hear. Mine leaks back there too and since I've already replaced the quarter belt moulding this was next on the list.

 

[unwiredadventures]

I have a 94 FJ 80, and have developed a rather severe water leak in the vicinity of the left rear window, and am assuming that the leak originates from the window seal. Living in the Pacific NW, this can be "stinky" to say the least. Has anyone else experienced the same problem, and can verify the source and solution, which I assume requires having the window seal removed and replaced.

My LX had a leak in the same area. I traced it to the trim just below the window. I pulled the inside panel off, had someone hose the side of the truck while my hand was inside. It was easy to determine the source of the water.

I gently removed the trim, it's held by 3 or 4 somewhat delicate plastic things. I applied silicone to the plastic pop in things and put it back in. No leak since.

Also, when it leaked it was making the rear carpet wet. This happened when water dripped on the jack holder, then spilled into the interior. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of jack holder just in case a leak comes back to prevent water from leaking onto the rear cargo area.

 

[jcwhitty]

Thanks everyone, some outstanding information, and tomorrow I will see if I can't remedy the problem....may just do the other side while I am at it.

John.

 

[nicholas]

Nicholas,

Neither is hard to do. The quarter belt molding just pops off, the rest becomes obvious after you do that.

The vent fix involves removing one nut from the inside through a hole in the D pillar and 2 pressure clips on the outside. One side popped off well, the clips on the other side broke on me. After that's off, get those 2 philips head screws to remove the piece with little rubber flaps. Between the rubber flap piece and the duct that runs up inside the D pillar is where the foam had become compressed and useless. I cleaned up all those contact areas, added a heavy bead of silicone, and buttoned it all back up.

20 minutes for the first side, 5 for the 2nd.

Don't know about the silicone/rust issue.

Thanks for the great info. I think I am going to move this to the top of my list since it's getting cold/wet here and soon the will want to kick the cruiser out of tha garage.

One question though, It is my understanding that to do this repair you do not need to replace any of the parts including the quarter belt, just maybe replace a couple of broken clips and run silicone beads as described.

 

[TLCnoob]

All pieces can be removed and reused. I forgot to mention that one of my D pillar bolts had rusted to the point that it had separated from the outer plastic vent cover. I just filled the hole in the sheet metal with silicone and used same silicone to 'glue' the area where the bolt had been to the outer cover. It ain't pretty under the cover, but it's dry inside. The covers being $80 a side, I'll engineer as much as I can before giving up.

Good luck.

 

[jcwhitty]

A question for an area related, there is what appears to be a drain hose running up the pillar just in front of the rear quarter windows......where does that go?

John.

 

[TLCnoob]

I believe that's the sunroof drain. Is it the ~5/8" black one? There are 4, one on each corner of the vehicle.

 

[jcwhitty]

Yes, and thanks once again.

John.

 

[96r50]

I (hopefully) fixed my wet jack problem. I replaced the quarter belt moulding earlier this summer to no avail, so I figured it must be coming from the vent assembly.

This is what comes out from inside the truck.

This is the nut that you have to undo from inside. The stud is supposed to be attached to the outer trim piece. Remove the big trim piece that holds the jack door and you'll see the nut/stud. No need to remove the seatbelt/D pillar trim

After undoing that nut, pull off the outer cover piece. The two pins are above the vent slits and they are simple push/pull pins. Next, undo the two Phillips screws, grab the flapper assembly and wiggle it out. Once it's free you can pull out the big tube thingy quite easily.

This is what the truck looks like without the above pieces

I cleaned off all the old foam (it was definitely old and crumbled right off) and then sealed it all up piece by piece. I put the big tube thingy back in first and ran a bead of silicone 360* around it. Then I ran a bead of silicone around the back edge of the flapper piece and stuck it back on. Install the two screws and add any extra silicone as necessary. Reattach the outer cover and you're done!


Link to bigger versions of all the pictures (they're at the bottom)

 

[TLCnoob]

Great write-up and pics! It'll be much easier for others to follow the story now. I wish I'd recorded my fix, but you did well. Thanks and I hope that did it for you.

 

[jcwhitty]

Thanks again for all the detailed infornation. I did remove the both the bottom plastic molding under the window, and siliconed all the attachment holes, and the louver/vent piece, and the only source of water was the mounting stud that went through the body and was held in place with the small nut. This nut was actually loose. So far, no leaks!

One other quick note in regards to your very detailed, with pictures response, would be in removing the outside louver piece. To avoid breaking the center clip on the louver piece, pop out the top and bottom hold down pins first, then slide the louver up to release it from its seat. I broke that piece.

John.

 

[carlosfj80]

what type of silicone did you all use for this job?

 

[nicholas]

Thanks for the write-ups for any people that may need this in the future. I was in a hurry to do this Dec 15th before traveling with the LX, so I just siliconed around the inner vent piece, slapped the window back in and threw the trim back on. It seems to be holding up so far.

All pieces can be removed and reused. I forgot to mention that one of my D pillar bolts had rusted to the point that it had separated from the outer plastic vent cover. I just filled the hole in the sheet metal with silicone and used same silicone to 'glue' the area where the bolt had been to the outer cover. It ain't pretty under the cover, but it's dry inside. The covers being $80 a side, I'll engineer as much as I can before giving up.

Good luck.

X2 on rigging the vent trim to work. I actually used some back silicone to secure the hardened rubber trim around the vent trim piece. I then had to use a heat gun to bend the lower tip into the body because it had been pulled/bent away from the body by a sheisty auto car wash bristle. It looks good from about 4 feet away, so I am satisfied.

what type of silicone did you all use for this job?

I used some black automotive silicone from the wally world automotive section. I think it was about $3 a tube.

 

[96r50]

I used the Permatex black silicone since I had it kicking around. Almost two months later and no leaks!