Rear Bumper \Frame Paint? (1 Viewer)

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I need to paint my rear bumper and the front part of the frame leading up to my front bumper. I am planning to use POR15. Any recommendations as far as a topcoat? Is there anything I need to do as far as prep goes for the topcoat on the POR15?

Thanks
 
I haven't used it, but POR15 also sells a topcoat, seems like it would work well with their other products.
 
POR15 is very difficult to scratch if you ever need to repair or add to the painted area. I try not to use it because of that. Any time I have tried to add to it the edge where new the paint overlaps it does not stick. Usually falls off in that area whenever I pressure wash. I prefer rust bullet. It is more like a regular paint process which can be repaired or added to after the initial application is dry.
 
Are you wanting to use Por-15 on the front frame horn exterior because they are rusty?

I think @scoutingranch used to wear Por-15 polo shirts to work, here's one of his informational posts:
O.K Lads, here is the scoop on using Por-15 out of a can and saving it. Don't follow the instructions on the can or the website.
Before I write the smart way, keep in mind that when I use, as an example, 1/4 of can of regular Por-15, I can go back to it six month, 12 months........it will still be good.

First off, Por should only be used in light coats and the metal needs to rough, not sheet metal smooth.
And always use Por-15 thinner to clean the metal before applying paint, nothing else.
The directions read that you should not shake the can before using due to the black carbon bits that gives it the black color.
Shake the hell out of it, then pour thru an automotive painters filter to trap the black bits, throw away filter.

I always let the paint "flash off" in the receptacle where paint has been poured in for 30 to 45 minutes, it thickens it up a tad.

If you want to top coat with a semi flat, wait for about an hour or so. Just long enough to be able to drag you fingers across the painted surface without residue sticking to the skin but not to dry. Then fog only with, I use Rustoleum semi gloss. The fogging allows the gasses from Por to escape and not bubble.
Wait at least 24 hours then have it. Spray away.

On to saving your expensive can of Por-15. Do not, open the lid !!!! Instead use a small center punch or an awl to punch two holes on opposite sides of the lid. When done with the days task of using the paint, simply screw in wood or metal screws into the holes. Done.

The reason Por-15 paint gets hard in the can if the lid has been removed and replaced is that the paint is a moisture cure product.
You trap moisture in can and guess what the results are..........money down the drain.

If you have more questions feel free to ask by PM or onsite.

As for the gas tank sealer, once used just throw the remainder away, it will do you no good.
Sorry to be so long winded on the use of Por-15.
Regards
 
Best stuff I have ever used.

 
Rustoleum, I use gloss black, over time it dulls a bit. . It's easy to touch up, and can be found anywhere. The intial application, I like to use a brush then spray to get into the nooks and crannies. Touch up, I typically spray.
 
Thanks for all the responses...this is the area I am looking to paint as well as the back bumper.

IMG_20200303_095912.jpg
 
I used Eastwood extreme chassis black spray paint and have been very happy with it. Pretty durable, hasn’t lost its luster (granted it has been just over a year) and easy to touch up.

I use it on pretty much everything - axles, frame, rock sliders, fan shroud, you name it.
 

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