Real-Time-Help...Snapped CV joint!!!

[spressomon]

Not knowing exactly what broke you may/may not need to tie the broken CV pieces up out of the way. Per TM check to be sure the broken CV isn't going to rub on a brake line, etc.

I suspect one of the cages probably broke, just like mine did earlier this summer, and sent the balls flying. In that case its not going to go anywhere after you cut power to the CV by removing the hub flanges and front drive shaft.

Get under there and post us some pics will ya

 

[pfran42]

Ok, on to the tools list. I have 3 full sized rolling toolboxes to scavenge tools from and it is a 20 mile round trip from the farm house garage to the lake house where I am staying so I would like to keep from having to make runs back for tools and such. I am assuming I can do one side at a time so I will need the following:

Bottle jack, spacers if you are lifted (Floor jack if you can)
Jack stands (if you plan on having both wheels off at the same time)
Wheel lug wrench (22mm - same as 7/8")
Hammer
Sharp chisel (dust cap removal)
Wire (tying broken half shaft together)
Duct tape (tying broken half shaft together)
Large zip ties (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
Zip lock bag (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
(2X) 2 Liter bottles (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
Latex gloves (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
Box cutter (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
12 mm 6 point socket (hub flange nuts)
14 mm 6 point socket (front drive shaft)
14 mm box/open end wrench
Ratchet
Breaker bar (in case drive shaft has been torqued beyond factory specs)
Brass drift
White paint pen (marking orientation/position of front drive shaft. Make an index mark on each end of the drive shaft and the two mating flanges)
Mechanic's gloves
Rags

Questions:
Snap ring pliers (size?)


To do after emergency repair:
bored out hub flanges (make them and put them in with the recovery gear)


Related threads:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/231347-front-drive-shaft-removal.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/362386-diy-replace-front-bearing.html

Attachment(s):
(see Attached Images)


I am going to document this procedure and do a proper write up for the FAQs seeing how this is probably going to happen to a few of us in the future. Any help with the tools/supplies list would be greatly appreciated!

 

[pfran42]

Not knowing exactly what broke you may/may not need to tie the broken CV pieces up out of the way. Per TM check to be sure the broken CV isn't going to rub on a brake line, etc.

I suspect one of the cages probably broke, just like mine did earlier this summer, and sent the balls flying. In that case its not going to go anywhere after you cut power to the CV by removing the hub flanges and front drive shaft.

Get under there and post us some pics will ya

It broke exactly as you described. Pics coming as soon as I get back to the farm house in the morning.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You'll need-

Factory bottle jack
Lug wrench
12mm, 14mm sockets and ratchet
Hammer
Flathead screwdriver
Something to cover flange
Something to secure CV if nec.
Needle nose pliers (snap ring if you've got them)

 

[pfran42]

You'll need-

Factory bottle jack
Lug wrench
12mm, 14mm sockets and ratchet
Hammer
Flathead screwdriver
Something to cover flange
Something to secure CV if nec.
Needle nose pliers (snap ring if you've got them)

Thanks! Do you recommend a breaker bar for the 14mm front drive shaft bolts? Also, someone posted about marking the front drive shaft so that it goes back the same way it came out, Can anyone elaborate on that?

Tools/Parts list updated.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Make a chalk or sharpie line from the ds to the flange on both ends so that you can match up which end is which and how it's rotated when you put it back in. Keeps things that are balanced that way.

 

[spressomon]

Thanks! Do you recommend a breaker bar for the 14mm front drive shaft bolts?
Tools/Parts list updated.

Depends who torqued 'em down last . Ideally a 6pt socket and a 14mm box/open end are what you're going to need...a breaker bar might be needed if they are torqued beyond factory recommendation.

Yes per TM: Use chalk or whatever market you have to make an index mark on each end of the drive shaft and the two mating flanges. Not totally a deal breaker but it might save you some time later on if you discover you have a little driveline vibe that wasn't there before

 

[spressomon]

Oh...you can probably glean some useful info from this link I found for you

Click on the PDF link within OurSauvage's post #1 here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/362386-diy-replace-front-bearing.html

You're only interested in the first portion of the PDF showing how to remove the hub flange. Stop after that!

 

[pfran42]

Hopefully I now have a complete list. Can anyone tell me what size the lug nuts are? I think I left my OEM toolkit back in Atlanta (I know, stupid move).

 

[spressomon]

Hopefully I now have a complete list. Can anyone tell me what size the lug nuts are? I think I left my OEM toolkit back in Atlanta (I know, stupid move).

22mm (same as 7/8")

 

[pfran42]

Thanks all! Will start in the morning and take a ton of pics. Happy Labor Day!

 

[pfran42]

Just thought of another question. Once everything is is temporarily "fixed" I will start the truck, engage the center differential lock (CDL) and drive slowly for about 50 feet. At this point can I place the truck in park, pop the center console bezel and disconnect the wire running to the CDL switch?

 

[spressomon]

I'll just add this since it seems you are not familiar with the brass drift: The reason you use something softer than what you are going to pound on [hub flange studs (again with the nuts in place so you don't damage the stud threads), hub flange itself] is to keep from damaging the related parts. Brass is softer so it absorbs some of the impact thereby protecting the studs and/or hub flange from BFH blows.

A brass hammer would suffice too.

Brass drift: Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

And it helps your knuckles, fingers, hands if you hold the brass drift with a pair of pliers...so you don't end up cursing to high heaven when your aim is a little off with the BFH

 

[100 TD]

Once everything is is temporarily "fixed" , engage the center differential lock (CDL) and drive slowly for about 50 feet. At this point can I place the truck in park, pop the center console bezel and disconnect the wire running to the CDL switch?

YES or pull the connector from the CDL motor.

Ok, on to the tools list.
Bottle jack, spacers if you are lifted (Floor jack if you can)
Jack stands (if you plan on having both wheels off at the same time)
Wheel lug wrench (22mm - same as 7/8")
Hammer
Sharp chisel (dust cap removal)
Wire (tying broken half shaft together)
Duct tape (tying broken half shaft together)
Large zip ties (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
Zip lock bag (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
(2X) 2 Litter bottles (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
Latex gloves (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
Box cutter (makeshift dust cover for hubs)
12 mm 6 point socket (hub flange nuts)
14 mm 6 point socket (front drive shaft)
14 mm box/open end wrench
Ratchet
Breaker bar (in case drive shaft has been torqued beyond factory specs)
Brass drift
White paint pen (marking orientation/position of front drive shaft. Make an index mark on each end of the drive shaft and the two mating flanges)
Mechanic's gloves
Rags
Snap ring pliers (size?)

For the drive shaft you can just hook a ring on an open to get leverage. If it hasn't been pulled before, Toyotas Loctite is good stuff.
You don't need to mark anythuing as you are not pulling the tail shaft (propellor shaft) apart. When it bolts back in place there is no difference where it goes to either the transfer case or the diff. The tailshaft is balanced by itself, not on the vehicle.
For the snap ring, you can expand with long nose pliers and get a screwdriver in there to pop it off, you can even do it with a few screwdrivers alone, but it is easier with external pliers.
You can remove the cap with a hammer and screwdriver, the cone washers, chisel/brass drift should suffice.

 

[yeti in ga]

Sorry to see another broken part .... hope all goes well.

 

[BamaHeel]

Good luck on the quick repair and the trip home.

 

[OGBeno]

And it helps your knuckles, fingers, hands if you hold the brass drift with a pair of pliers...so you don't end up cursing to high heaven when your aim is a little off with the BFH

Oh where's the fun in that then? A little blood when wrenching should be required for all 100 series owners....

 

[spressomon]

Oh where's the fun in that then? A little blood when wrenching should be required for all 100 series owners....

I'll remember that the next time you help me with trailside repairs

 

[OGBeno]

I'll remember that the next time you help me with trailside repairs

Wont be the first time we've helped with trail side repairs on the hundy...

 

[spressomon]

Wont be the first time we've helped with trail side repairs on the hundy...

Nope, but my point...man that one flew right over your nogg'n: Up late last night? ...was: I'll make sure to have the proper safety gear for when you need to work on my rig again