Real-Time-Help...Snapped CV joint!!!

[pfran42]

Out in the garage with no internet and stuck on the part where you remove the hub flange. Went back to the lake house for my Mud lifeline. I'm not sure I understand exactly what direction to hit it from. Could not procure a brass drift so I have been trying to use a flattened section of copper tubing to keep damage to the wheel assembly at a minimum. Started with the copper and a hammer, then on to a BFH, and finally on to a Reese trailer hitch ball joint thingy. I am afraid I am doing something wrong because the hits to the hub flange make the earth tremble.

Dan, call coming your way if you don't mind.

 

[spressomon]

Out in the garage with no internet and stuck on the part where you remove the hub flange. Went back to the lake house for my Mud lifeline. I'm not sure I understand exactly what direction to hit it from. Could not procure a brass drift so I have been trying to use a flattened section of copper tubing to keep damage to the wheel assembly at a minimum. Started with the copper and a hammer, then on to a BFH, and finally on to a Reese trailer hitch ball joint thingy. I am afraid I am doing something wrong because the hits to the hub flange make the earth tremble.

Dan, call coming your way if you don't mind.

Call me as soon as you can...I'll be at the house for a little bit before heading to no-cell land.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Do not hit the face of the flange, hit the sides of the hub.

 

[pfran42]

Had a good talk with Dan on what I was doing wrong. As soon as I went back out and hit the flange nuts as if I were trying to drive a nail into the caliper, they started breaking free.

Now I have an entirely different problem.

After I got off the phone with Spressomon, I headed back out to the garage to find the house owner's son working on the passenger side. He had taken the caliper off the rotor. I told him that we were not going that route and to put it back on. He did and we quickly had both flanges off, zip-lock bags zip tied on the exposed opening and the wheels back on. I noticed there was something that had leaked under the brake that had the caliper pulled. It was brake fluid. When it came time to test drive the fix, driving was fine but pressing the brakes sent the pedal all the way to the floor. There was no leakage overnight where I had stored the vehicle and the person who took the caliper off put it right back on without disconnecting the brake fluid line.

Pumping the line hard 10-20 times in a row does not produce a leak but it does sound an alarm and the red brake light and the ABS light come on for a minute or so. I inspected the line running from the caliper to the wheel well and there is no leakage.

Running out of daylight and the family is pissed...HELP!

Do I need to just keep bleeding the brakes?

 

[2000UZJ]

Enough brake fluid?

 

[jgray]

Sounds like you just need to bleed the brakes. Easy job with a helper. Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the hundy. Ive been there!

 

[pfran42]

Made it home. I guess some air got into the line and he was bleeding using the wrong bleed valve. We switched it to the top one and everything was good to go.

As a side note, it looks like my MPGs went up due to disconnecting the the front drive shaft. First time I've seen 300 miles to a tank in a long time.

Thanks again for all the help. I took a ton of pics and will be doing a write up as soon as I get caught up from the weekend.

 

[pfran42]

And finally, here is the picture everyone is probably interested in. Total and absolute devastation:

 

[100 TD]

Is that the "outboard" joint that snapped? IIRC you never mentioned before, and have now just put up the pics at the start and end of the thread?

 

[pfran42]

Is that the "outboard" joint that snapped? IIRC you never mentioned before, and have now just put up the pics at the start and end of the thread?

Yes, it was the outboard joint on the passenger side. I put the pics up at the beginning and end to show the readers what a snapped CV joint looks like. Thanks again for helping me work through this.

 

[Gottagetone]

Thats a mess, glad you made it home. This forum rocks!

 

[mechanixhorseman]

Sorry to hear about the mess. Looks like the forum came through as usual though. I'll be paying attention to this thread though as I'll probably be having this issue in the future with as many miles as I have on mine and as much as I wheel it.

Looking forward to the write up. I'll probably print off a copy and just keep it in my cruiser along with the requisite tools.

 

[OregonLC]

You will need a arm puller to remove the knuckle. Other than that is pretty basic tools with the exception of a brass hammer and cotter pins. is the CV snapped in have or just shattered but still in one piece?

FWIW, I have a puller, but it's not the perfect size for the job. So I was able to get the hub assembly off the upper ball joint just by hitting the arm with a hammer to pop it down (after removing the castled nut, of course).

Dang Paul, that stinks. A spare CV (and a bored flange) are worthy for the trail parts bin.

 

[pfran42]

FWIW, I have a puller, but it's not the perfect size for the job. So I was able to get the hub assembly off the upper ball joint just by hitting the arm with a hammer to pop it down (after removing the castled nut, of course).

Dang Paul, that stinks. A spare CV (and a bored flange) are worthy for the trail parts bin.

Yeah, my recovery gear must-have's list is becoming drawer worthy. No fear...This is all part of my 100 Series rapid acclimation regimen. It is going to be an expensive ride!

 

[pfran42]

I figured I would post some part info in order to make this thread more worth-while:

Part Information

Front right
Part name: 2002 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Front Right CV Axle Shaft
Part Number: 4343060040
Source: 2002 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Front Right CV Axle Shaft

Front Left
Part name: 2002 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Front Left CV Axle Shaft
Part Number: 4343060040
Source: 2002 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Front Left CV Axle Shaft

Note: These appear to have the same part number but if you look in the URL, there is another number referenced:

Right: 5968000
Left: 5967999

Not sure if this is a sub part number or what not but it appears to be valuable information.

 

[3D FJ]

Breathe! Breathe!


And since you haven't taken my advice about carrying a pair of bored out hub flanges......you'll need to leave them off and tape up around the bearings to try to keep as much grit out of the bearings as possible.

If i were to get a pair of hub flanges, what do i need to do get them bored out? Can i do this myself? Also, i tried searching car-part.com for a salvaged piece... can't find one... does anyone know what category this part falls under?

 

[Skidoo]

If i were to get a pair of hub flanges, what do i need to do get them bored out? Can i do this myself? Also, i tried searching car-part.com for a salvaged piece... can't find one... does anyone know what category this part falls under?

The splines that engage with the shaft coming from CV. (see post #43) can see shaft just sticking out of middle of hub. Some tough steel to bore out, maybe could "shade tree" it with a die grinder.

 

[DesertRun]

If i were to get a pair of hub flanges, what do i need to do get them bored out? Can i do this myself? Also, i tried searching car-part.com for a salvaged piece... can't find one... does anyone know what category this part falls under?

I have the same question. I have a spare set of flanges, and want to know what guys have done to bore them out for use in the trail spares kit? Machine shop? What did guys pay $$ to have it done? Thanks

 

[3D FJ]

I have the same question. I have a spare set of flanges, and want to know what guys have done to bore them out for use in the trail spares kit? Machine shop? What did guys pay $$ to have it done? Thanks

Where did you get your flanges from? i'm trying to find a set.

 

[DesertRun]

Toyota dealer. $45 each if I remember correctly.