Real Time Help: Bumper install - Stuck bolts

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 4, 2009
Threads
86
Messages
1,002
Location
Philadelphia, PA
I'm in the process of trying to install my new slee rear bumper. In the process I made the mistake of following the pictures on the instructions instead of the words (I installed a plastic skid in the position for the rear ladder instead of the location for the tire carrier--I only have a tire carrier. These are the skids that help the tire carrier and ladder to slide cleanly on to the bumper when they are closed. Literally the 1st step in the install).

There are two of these, and one went on without a hitch--and is also already in the right place. The other one was very difficult to get on. As in the bolts were very difficult to turn. I eventually got it on, but it didn't feel quite right. Now that I realize that I have to remove the one that was difficult to get on, I can't get the bolts off at all.

As you can see in the picture, I've already bent the allenwrench in the efforts to try to undo these bolts (they are the "locking" type, with the plastic inserts to keep them from rattling loose). :censor:

Does anyone have any advice on how to get these off? I'm weary of doing any more damage to my tools of the bolts that would make it even more difficult to extract these.

:confused:

I'm confused, because this is all brand-new hardware, and the nuts/bolts were already pre-mated (i.e., the nut was already pre-threaded part way into the bolt so there is no chance that I took the wrong nut and jammed it into the bolt.)

The one on the right is in the correct position and you can see that he bolt is well seated. The one on the left I need to get out, and you can see that the bolts are already part way unseated, and they spin freely with the nut wrapped around the bolt on the other side--I held the nut with a wrench on the other side while keeping the bolt from spinning with the allen-wrench, but that just caused the allen wrench to bend.
2010-07-31_10-20-12_117.webp
 
Here is a picture from underneath...not a good picture, but you get the idea.
2010-07-31_10-20-38_14.webp
 
Sounds like you cross threaded it. Hold it in place with the allen and impact the nut off.

Can't get to the nut with an impact wrench (it's inside the bumper).

Also, Tried applying more force on the nut while holding the allen still, and now the allen wrench got mangled (it is no longer perfectly hexagonal.) :censor:
2010-07-31_10-55-39_888.webp
 
As stated.. drill it out and get yourself a better allen key.
The one in the pic looks to be too small, thus giving you the perfect chance to hold the bolt in an angle and ending up with a stripped bolt.
 
Update: Good news - Bad news

Ok. The good news is that I managed to remove the bolts/nuts. :)

The bad news, as you can see from the picture, I was not able to salvage either the bolt or nut. :frown:

Any ideas where I could buy something similar locally (already checked home depot and pep boys, and neither had something like this)?

It's a 3/8”x 3/4" counter sunk stainless allen head steel screw with flat washers and lock nut ( I still have the washers in good shape.)

I'm in the Philly area and would love to complete the project today...

Thanks for the advice so far. :cheers:
2010-07-31_13-48-54_992.webp
 
They don't have the nylon locking nuts and allen type screws at home depot?? I would have thought so. May have to seek out a nut and bolt store but probably won't be open on Saturday atleast past lunch anyway
 
They don't have the nylon locking nuts and allen type screws at home depot?? I would have thought so. May have to seek out a nut and bolt store but probably won't be open on Saturday atleast past lunch anyway

Yup. No luck at the HD. And all specialty stores I could find are closed on the weekend :-(

I guess this project is on hold for then. :mad:

This is literally step one on the whole install, and from what I can tell it's a really bad idea to mount the bumper without having installed these. It looks to me that once the bumper is in place, getting the lock nuts in place would be very unpleasant.

If someone has one installed, can you see if the lock nuts are accessible once the bumper is in place? If this were the case, I could proceed with the rest of the install and just add this at a later time. I wouldn't want to have to take the whole bumper down just to add it in though...
 
Try an Ace hardware if you have one nearby. Not sure all Ace's are like the one near me, but they have it all Grade 8, metric, allen heads, stainless, etc...
 
Yup. No luck at the HD. And all specialty stores I could find are closed on the weekend :-(

I guess this project is on hold for then. :mad:

This is literally step one on the whole install, and from what I can tell it's a really bad idea to mount the bumper without having installed these. It looks to me that once the bumper is in place, getting the lock nuts in place would be very unpleasant.

If someone has one installed, can you see if the lock nuts are accessible once the bumper is in place? If this were the case, I could proceed with the rest of the install and just add this at a later time. I wouldn't want to have to take the whole bumper down just to add it in though...

dont rush ahead. Put the spacers on first then finish the rest.
 
Try Lowe's. I have had better luck finding speciality bolts and such at Lowes.
 
If you MUST have Allen bolts, wait until a good machinist supply place opens on the weekend. I'd expect Ace Hardware or HD or Lowe's would have a stainless countersunk fastener with a straight slot, they'll definitely have the locknuts. Get a GOOD Allen wrench...maybe one that's set up to take a 1/4 or 3/8" ratchet drive. Pick up a can of Never-Seez while you're at it...very handy for your Hundy.

Stainless is softer than a regular Allen fastener, the issue is compounded on CS Allen fasteners by the very small wrench used to get 'em tight.

hth

Steve
 
Ditto above: For the weekend just use a flat head bolt with a flat screwdriver type head instead of the hex/allen type. You should be able to find those at Lowes/HD/Ace. Or just put the swing arms on and clamp it down with the plastic pieces in place but not bolted. They're not going to go anywhere when clamped...until you can get to a real fastener store next week...as for getting the lock nuts in place if you use zinc plated nylocks you should be able to use a magnet to hold them in place while your buddy threads and tightens the bolts ;)

And stainless on stainless galls. Better to use SS bolts with plated nuts or plated on each. Even anti-seize doesn't always keep SS on SS from galling...
 
Thanks everyone. I also made a trip to Lowes, but was not able to find the hardware.

As some have noted, I think getting to the nuts once the bumper is in place will be very difficult, so I'm better of waiting to get the right hardware and doing it the "right" way for good before mounting the bumper. So for now I'm trying to hunt-down the appropriate Stainless Steel hardware.

I found some Grade 8 philips head machine bolts at Lowes that could have worked, but they were not stainless. I figured that they would have worked for a while, but would eventually rust, so I passed on them.

Will keep on looking.

In the meantime, a related question:

This has to do with greasing the bearings/spindle on which the tire carrier will swing. The instructions say to pack the taper bearings with waterproof grease: "Pack the two supplied taper bearings with waterproof grease."

...which raised two questions for me:

1) What does it mean to "pack bearings with grease"? I bought a grease gun, and figured I need to use it for this, just not sure how
2) Would the following grease be ok for this purpose (also picked it up tonight): Plews/Lubrimatic Marine And Industrial Corrosion Control And Trailer Bearing Grease

LubriMatic Marine Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease - 14 oz. Cartridge LubriMatic Tools L11402

I figured that since it mentioned marine use, it might fit the "water proof" part. As you can see from my questions, I have zero experience with greasing anything, so any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Put a wad of grease in the palm of your hand and with the bearing in the other hand mash the bearing rollers into the wad of grease, working your way all the way around the bearing. Do this so that all the little spaces around the little bearing rollers are gooped full of grease.

Holy crap, it's actually on Youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agxjGtmHV_4
 
Put a wad of grease in the palm of your hand and with the bearing in the other hand mash the bearing rollers into the wad of grease, working your way all the way around the bearing. Do this so that all the little spaces around the little bearing rollers are gooped full of grease.

Holy crap, it's actually on Youtube:

YouTube - Correct way to pack a wheel bearing

Thanks. This is very helpful.
:cheers:

Any thoughts on the type of grease I bought--see above. I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes as to what type of grease i use.
 
I used basic marine grease which is water proof. I bought it at lowes for five dollars.
 
UPDATE - Good news!

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help and give an update on the install project.

So I was unable to find the necessary replacement hardware locally, but Christo from Slee hooked me up with the replacement parts so I was good to go. :cheers:

I picked up where I left of after work today, and after about 3.5 hours the bumper, along with the tire carrier, is installed! The rest of the install went very smoothly, with impressively accurate tolerances on all the parts. I was a little nervous about my ability to lift the bumper into place, but with a couple of jack stands and a floor jack even that turned out to be a non-issue.

All in, I'm very excited about the product, and love the look of the truck (pics to follow soon.) Though I'm sure I'll end up using the trunk a little less than I used to :p

The only remaining question I had was regarding the spindle for the ladder, which I did not purchase: what are folks doing to cover up and protect the free spindle for the ladder? It is my understanding that Slee is working on an "official" solution to this, but I have no idea when it would be coming out.

Oh, and one more thing I noticed... the factory 31" Grandtrek tire looks pretty wimpy as a spare... I may have to do something about that... :D
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom